Is k2 really the toughest mountain to climb?

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Shawnee Bob
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Re: Is k2 really the toughest mountain to climb?

Post by Shawnee Bob »

After watching 'Meru,' I have to think that one ranks up there.
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Re: Is k2 really the toughest mountain to climb?

Post by kushrocks »

Tough to compare for sure. Seeing 26,001ft G4 with your own eyes will make your eyes pop out of your head wondering how in the heck anyone could get up that. It dominates your view for 2 days on the trek into base camp. There could also be a good argument for Masherbrum which has not seen a single summit in over 30 years.

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Re: Is k2 really the toughest mountain to climb?

Post by Scott P »

Shawnee Bob wrote: Tue Mar 23, 2021 9:20 pm After watching 'Meru,' I have to think that one ranks up there.
The Sharks Fin on Meru Peak almost certainly ranks as one of the hardest routes ever climbed. It must be mentioned though that there are "easier" routes on the mountain than this one. It's the central peak which is the hardest one and the one the movie is about. The highest summit is easier to climb.
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Re: Is k2 really the toughest mountain to climb?

Post by Scott P »

kushrocks wrote: Mon Mar 29, 2021 2:02 pm There could also be a good argument for Masherbrum which has not seen a single summit in over 30 years.
Years ago, I was surprised to hear that Masherbrum was considered to be so difficult.

One of my friends got somewhat close to soloing it back in 1975. He had little technical experience and no rope experience. With just his backpack filled with necessities and an ice axe he reached 7350 meters and camped at 7300 meters before a storm that was several days long drove him off the mountain. According to him at least, if it weren't for that storm he probably would have made the summit. You can read about the trip here:

https://kelseyguidebooks.com/?page_id=95

Climbing Magazine #47 March-April 1978 has a much more detailed report.

Mike didn't even own a rope until the late 1990's, so it is surpringly that he was able to get that high up on Masherbrum with little climbing experience. Mike did climb a lot of mountains (almost always solo) and was in great shape (more than anyone else I know or even know of), but he didn't have much technical experience at the time.

Maybe Mike is wrong about him probably reaching the summit if the storm didn't hit and maybe the technical difficulties got worse after he turned back. Looking at photographs, other than perhaps the last 100 meters or so the upper parts of the mountain don't look any more technical than the rest of the mountain he climbed, but who knows?
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Re: Is k2 really the toughest mountain to climb?

Post by Salient »

kushrocks wrote: Mon Mar 29, 2021 2:02 pm Tough to compare for sure. Seeing 26,001ft G4 with your own eyes will make your eyes pop out of your head wondering how in the heck anyone could get up that. It dominates your view for 2 days on the trek into base camp. There could also be a good argument for Masherbrum which has not seen a single summit in over 30 years.

I'm sure someone will have another go at Masherbrum sometime in a few years or so.
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Re: Is k2 really the toughest mountain to climb?

Post by XterraRob »

kushrocks wrote: Mon Mar 29, 2021 2:02 pm Tough to compare for sure. Seeing 26,001ft G4 with your own eyes will make your eyes pop out of your head wondering how in the heck anyone could get up that. It dominates your view for 2 days on the trek into base camp. There could also be a good argument for Masherbrum which has not seen a single summit in over 30 years.

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