Gannett Peak requirements?

[Above_Treeline]

Wondering what is required for Gannett peak? Skills & gear?

Looked at a couple websites and a video so far. How much is class 5? What climbing or glacier-crossing gear is needed? Etc.

Not sure when I could do it, dreaming a bit. Any more attainable climbs, or lists of them in the area? Also I'd like to find a good,map of the area free online, if possible.

[Eli Boardman]

Assuming you're talking about the standard gooseneck couloir route in good conditions...

None of it is class 5. In fact, it's all class 3 or easier if you're on route. The glacier is more of a snow field, and very few unguided parties use ropes anywhere on the climb (we didn't take a rope). All you need is an ice axe, crampons, and a fair amount of experience with self arrest and snow climbing up to 40 degrees.

For any backcountry map, I recommend CalTopo.com.

[Above_Treeline]

Assuming you're talking about the standard gooseneck couloir route in good conditions...

None of it is class 5. In fact, it's all class 3 or easier if you're on route. The glacier is more of a snow field, and very few unguided parties use ropes anywhere on the climb (we didn't take a rope). All you need is an ice axe, crampons, and a fair amount of experience with self arrest and snow climbing up to 40 degrees.

For any backcountry map, I recommend CalTopo.com.

Wow, only class 3? One page talked about having to use ropes, in case,you fall into a crevasse, and talked it up. But the video, it didn't seem like they used ropes, and the terrain didn't look that bad, but they cut out a lot of the climb.

Good to know. I'll look at the top site, thanks for that, too.

Did you come in from the east or west? (Or south, I guess?)

[spiderman]

Gannett Peak offers different experiences for each attempt. Some lucky people find the glacier and snow in perfect condition and can kick steps with ease. Other times the snow is icy and nasty. Other times there is a gaping 'schrund. Other times there is bad rock fall. Other times the weather is hellacious. Here is a summary of our 3 trips.

1) tried from the East in the August and made it to the end of the Glacier trail. I got wickedly sick and had to retreat back 25 miles with zero energy. A person died on the easy summit ridge when he slipped and could not self arrest.

2) tried from West in May and spent a total of 11 days including a few stuck in a tent during a blizzard. Made it to the peak at 6 am and narrowly missed a big avalanche on the way down at 8 am (nasty inversion layer at 13,000').

3) tried from the East and had a wicked "stream" crossing due to a ice dam bursting up near the divide. The normally-little creek was 1/4 mile wide. A family had lost almost everything when the flood swept through their camp. They were fortunate to still be alive. On our summit day, the temperature was crazy hot and we had to abandon the attempt due to rockfall. One of our party members broke his thumb in a minor fall.

Gannett is often far more difficult than Rainier. Don't assume that it will be a class 3 walkup, although it might be on some trips such as the one that Eli had. Treat the mountain with respect and go with a solid team who have a wide range of skills. The Winds are serious adventures and from the sounds of your background, you might need some lower consequence trips before you are fully ready.

Peakbagger.com is awesome for discovering mountains in other states and downloading trip reports, maps, and GPS tracks. I really loved Cloud Peak in Wyoming. It is a 1-2 day class 2 adventure. Check out the Ultras list for a great set of peaks. Stay in your comfort zone and slowly build up your skills until you are ready to tackle the more difficult ones.

http://www.peakbagger.com/list.aspx?lid=41203

[HuskyRunner]

It took us 3 tries to finally climb Gannett. First time we attempted to approach from Green River Lakes via Wells Creek (Elk Heart was closed due to fires) and found that due to spring runoff the creek was running too fast for our comfort level and while there likely was a small slab route that would have bypassed the choke point we didn't have the gear that would have made that comfortable.

Second time we went late August via Titcomb Basin and when we got to the Gooseneck found that the bergshrund was open enough to require dropping into and climbing out of, some ice and crappy rock. Expecting a snow climb we didn't bring any rock gear so again we turned back without reaching the summit

Third time we went mid July, again via Titcomb. Bonnie Pass was covered in perfect snow and the gooseneck was in great condition. We did take ropes but they weren't needed and this time around the route was indeed a nice mellow snow climb.

We've had similar experience on Rainier, Emmons-Winthrop the first time around was perfect conditions and we made the climb without any trouble at all. Second time we were on the Kautz and a completely different mountain; Ice fall, damn cold, collapsing snow bridges, lightening, and dense fog that almost kept us from reaching the lot at Paradise just a 1/4 mile from the lot. Like any trip to the mountains it really depends on the weather and conditions, some days you're blessed with perfect days, others, not so much.

[SurfNTurf]

A lot will depend on the seasonal snowfall and the time of year you attempt. We went in late June of an average snowpack.

The rock sections are no more difficult than Class 3 if you stay on-route. Some of it is moderately exposed. The summit ridge was the most surprising to me -- it's an easy walk, but you're traversing a slope that culminates in a sheer cliff. In icy or slushy snow conditions (we had the latter), it keeps your attention.

I didn't measure, but when we went the couloir was definitely steeper than 40 degrees. Probably more around 45-50. The bergschrund hadn't yet opened and we didn't use the rope we carried. It wasn't necessary on any of the "glacier" approach, either, though we did see open crevasses on certain terrain features. If we'd gone a week or two later, we likely would have roped up at least for the climb around the 'schrund. A glacier rope and a light rack weighs practically nothing. I wouldn't have wanted to hike all that way to get thwarted at the crux because we didn't want to carry an extra 2-3lbs apiece. Unless you're sure from very recent beta that you won't need it, I'd carry the gear.

The sketchiest part of our entire summit day was actually the ascent and descent of Dinwoody Pass on the Titcomb Lakes side. It wasn't overly steep (this was more in the 35/40-degree range), but we had bulletproof ice covered by a half-inch of slush both ways. It was hell in strap-on crampons. Several parties turned around before even reaching the pass. I think we were just unlucky with conditions, but something to keep in mind. Even the approach isn't trivial.

[AlexeyD]

We had similar conditions as HuskyRunner's #2 attempt, around the same time of year. We had a rope, ice tool and several ice screws, all of which were used to enable a successful ascent. Rope was used to lead up the 50 feet of ~50 degree hard ice on the way up, and then to rappel said ice and the bergschrund below it on the way down (2 raps with a single 60, if memory serves me right). The rest of the route, I agree with others - easy class 3, no gear required.

Will you actually need all this stuff? The answer is I don't know, and probably neither will you until you get there and find out. It's a hell of a long way to hike in just to find out you don't have what you need though.

Also, I'm not sure why there's any doubt as to whether this route involves traveling on *real* glaciers. The answer is unequivocally yes - two of them to be exact - the Dinwoody and the Gooseneck. Absolutely nothing not real about them.

EDIT - to OP's question about maps: like anywhere else in the US, you can get a good-quality free online map from many sources. Hillmap or MappingSupport are just two examples. If using Hillmap, I recommend the ArcGisUSA layer.

[jscully205]

It's not that hard of a climb, people solo it all the time, but as others have stated the conditions are everything. I just did it over the 4th of July weekend via Titcomb basin and would not want to do it any later than that. The berg wasn't open but if was, it would add some technical climbing. Most of the climb is hiking on moderately steep snow. If the snow is in good shape, you'll only need an ice axe and crampons. Care should be taken on the ridge as its just a fin of a rock and you don't want to fall. There was one party using a rope but all it did was slow them down and create rope drag going around the rocky part of the ridge. Personally, I thought just getting up Bonney Pass was the crux of the whole climb. All other caveats aside, if you're in good condition you'll be fine.

[rijaca]

I'll echo what Mr. SnT posted.

Did it twice in late July/early August. One time the berg had opened up (10-15' deep) and there was a snow bridge across. One member of the party wanted a belay across on the ascent. Second time, the berg had barely opened up, and we just stepped across it.

There is also the 20 mile approach from Elkhart Park. Titcomb Basin makes the effort worthwhile.

And Kelsey's Guide to the Wind River Mountains grades the route as Snow 4.

[Above_Treeline]

Gannett Peak offers different experiences for each attempt. Some lucky people find the glacier and snow in perfect condition and can kick steps with ease. Other times the snow is icy and nasty. Other times there is a gaping 'schrund. Other times there is bad rock fall. Other times the weather is hellacious. Here is a summary of our 3 trips.

1) tried from the East in the August and made it to the end of the Glacier trail. I got wickedly sick and had to retreat back 25 miles with zero energy. A person died on the easy summit ridge when he slipped and could not self arrest.

2) tried from West in May and spent a total of 11 days including a few stuck in a tent during a blizzard. Made it to the peak at 6 am and narrowly missed a big avalanche on the way down at 8 am (nasty inversion layer at 13,000').

3) tried from the East and had a wicked "stream" crossing due to a ice dam bursting up near the divide. The normally-little creek was 1/4 mile wide. A family had lost almost everything when the flood swept through their camp. They were fortunate to still be alive. On our summit day, the temperature was crazy hot and we had to abandon the attempt due to rockfall. One of our party members broke his thumb in a minor fall.

Gannett is often far more difficult than Rainier. Don't assume that it will be a class 3 walkup, although it might be on some trips such as the one that Eli had. Treat the mountain with respect and go with a solid team who have a wide range of skills. The Winds are serious adventures and from the sounds of your background, you might need some lower consequence trips before you are fully ready.

Peakbagger.com is awesome for discovering mountains in other states and downloading trip reports, maps, and GPS tracks. I really loved Cloud Peak in Wyoming. It is a 1-2 day class 2 adventure. Check out the Ultras list for a great set of peaks. Stay in your comfort zone and slowly build up your skills until you are ready to tackle the more difficult ones.

http://www.peakbagger.com/list.aspx?lid=41203

That sounds about right for the Wind River Range.

A mid-September trip inspired me to get a -25°F sleeping bag. I don't know how cold it got, but after it warmed up a lot the next morning, about 10-11, my rod & reel quit working. The line had frozen to the rod. Well below 9K ft.

I love it up there. Wild. I don't think it's changed much since the Mountain Man Rondezvous in the 1830's.

Inversion layer at 13,000 ft. , as in air pollution? One guy was telling me Pinedale gets a lot of air pollution, due to natural gas wells in the area. Inspires me to turn off the heat in winter. Not at all convinced heat is a good reason to destroy the range.

No, I don't have the skills, but at least it doesn't sound like I'll have to do a lot of class 5, with all the gear. It sounded like I might.

[Above_Treeline]

Really enjoying reading the replies, I hope I can get back up there soon. Been too long.

One problem is that I don't know if I can cover 20 miles in 2 days. It's so gorgeous, hard to stay motivated. Last time just got in 3 miles, and set up camp. Didn't really see how it could get much better, why hike?

[AlexeyD]

One problem is that I don't know if I can cover 20 miles in 2 days. It's so gorgeous, hard to stay motivated. Last time just got in 3 miles, and set up camp. Didn't really see how it could get much better, why hike?

Hmm, not sure if this is something any of us can help you with there.