anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

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WVMountaineer
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Re: anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

Post by WVMountaineer »

Giving it another shot this year and will be taking the Emmons Route last week of May before any guides "set" the routes. Last year, my team attempted the Cleaver at the end of July when the glaciers and mountain was falling apart due to the ongoing 3 week heat wave. We turned around above the cleaver where the "plug" was waiting to fall at any moment. One of my climbing partners was extremely nervous and on edge so we turned around there. Returning with a much more experienced team this year. I will prob be out this saturday or sunday on Pikes (weather dependent) to get my first 14er of the year in to start the training and break in some new boots. I'll be slow going this weekend but you are welcome to join if you'd like.
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Re: anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

Post by angry »

WVMountaineer wrote: I will prob be out this saturday or sunday on Pikes (weather dependent) to get my first 14er of the year in to start the training and break in some new boots. I'll be slow going this weekend but you are welcome to join if you'd like.
I might be interested in Pikes, I'm looking at getting out both Sat and Sun. How slow is slow?
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Re: anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

Post by Brian C »

seano wrote:
TomPierce wrote:I'm planning on going solo up the Success Cleaver route. It's long and not heavily traveled, but has a sporty finish with no glacier travel.
Good luck with that. Rainier requires special solo permits, and as far as I can tell, you pretty much have to have climbed Denali to get one.
You’ll be fine Tom. I was approved for a solo permit last year and I don’t have a ton of glacier experience. Took a long time to hear back though...
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Re: anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

Post by TomPierce »

Thanks, Brian. Yeah, I'm going to apply pretty early, probably shooting for June. Whether I actually go depends on the job situation, we'll see. Thanks again, hope you're well.

-Tom
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Re: anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

Post by mountainute »

Hey,
I'd be interested in Pikes, but not this weekend (too much snow and rough weather forecasted plus I have plans already).
and maybe some winter tours. Possibly Rainier - I climbed Liberty Ridge but not Rainier proper.
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Re: anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

Post by I Man »

seano wrote:
TomPierce wrote:I'm planning on going solo up the Success Cleaver route. It's long and not heavily traveled, but has a sporty finish with no glacier travel.
Good luck with that. Rainier requires special solo permits, and as far as I can tell, you pretty much have to have climbed Denali to get one.

Tom definitely has the skills and experience to get a Rainier solo permit. Also, I don't think there are any actual requirements. None of these National Parks (Denali, Rainier, etc..) are actually looking to deny permits. I have never heard of someone being denied a permit based on merit alone. The permits are for overcrowding (though Denali has never once reached its quota) and to make sure that their asses are covered / you understand what you are getting into.

I've solo'd the West Butt on Denali and seen many others who have done the same. Tom's plan is sound, and seems awesome.

Anyway - Hi Tom! Hope all is well out West :iluvbeer: \:D/
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Re: anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

Post by I Man »

mountainute wrote:Hey,
I'd be interested in Pikes, but not this weekend (too much snow and rough weather forecasted plus I have plans already).
and maybe some winter tours. Possibly Rainier - I climbed Liberty Ridge but not Rainier proper.
mountainute
I also only did Liberty Cap when I climbed Liberty Ridge - one day I will go back for Columbia Crest, preferably with the Mrs.
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.

I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.
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Re: anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

Post by TomPierce »

I Man wrote:
seano wrote:
TomPierce wrote:I'm planning on going solo up the Success Cleaver route. It's long and not heavily traveled, but has a sporty finish with no glacier travel.
Good luck with that. Rainier requires special solo permits, and as far as I can tell, you pretty much have to have climbed Denali to get one.

Tom definitely has the skills and experience to get a Rainier solo permit. Also, I don't think there are any actual requirements. None of these National Parks (Denali, Rainier, etc..) are actually looking to deny permits. I have never heard of someone being denied a permit based on merit alone. The permits are for overcrowding (though Denali has never once reached its quota) and to make sure that their asses are covered / you understand what you are getting into.

I've solo'd the West Butt on Denali and seen many others who have done the same. Tom's plan is sound, and seems awesome.

Anyway - Hi Tom! Hope all is well out West :iluvbeer: \:D/
Hey Matt! Hope you're well! I'm doing great, still getting after it although I don't post much anymore, sort of off the social media radar. I'm hoping the Rainier thing is a go, but I also need to eventually look for a new job, but thankfully have a severance cushion. Not sure when I'll have this much time off again to pursue longer trips (I have my priorities in order, no? :lol:) so the Success Cleaver thing (low 5th or steep snow/snice finish) is a climb that's been on the back burner. Anyway, nice to hear from you!

-Tom
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Re: anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

Post by seano »

I Man wrote:Also, I don't think there are any actual requirements. None of these National Parks (Denali, Rainier, etc..) are actually looking to deny permits. I have never heard of someone being denied a permit based on merit alone.
I was denied twice. I sometimes wonder if I have enough glacier miles to get the okay now, but I've tagged the peak, and can't be bothered to fill out the form again.
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Re: anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

Post by I Man »

seano wrote:
I Man wrote:Also, I don't think there are any actual requirements. None of these National Parks (Denali, Rainier, etc..) are actually looking to deny permits. I have never heard of someone being denied a permit based on merit alone.
I was denied twice. I sometimes wonder if I have enough glacier miles to get the okay now, but I've tagged the peak, and can't be bothered to fill out the form again.
Interesting. You learn something new everyday.
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.

I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.
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Re: anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

Post by WVMountaineer »

angry wrote:
WVMountaineer wrote: I will prob be out this saturday or sunday on Pikes (weather dependent) to get my first 14er of the year in to start the training and break in some new boots. I'll be slow going this weekend but you are welcome to join if you'd like.
I might be interested in Pikes, I'm looking at getting out both Sat and Sun. How slow is slow?
mountainute wrote:Hey,
I'd be interested in Pikes, but not this weekend (too much snow and rough weather forecasted plus I have plans already).
and maybe some winter tours. Possibly Rainier - I climbed Liberty Ridge but not Rainier proper.
mountainute
I did Pikes via Crags last year in early April and my InReach time stamps are showing TH to Summit at 4 hrs and RT time was 7 hr 10 mins. I'm pretty sure the road to Crags TH is closed 2 miles out so that'll add some mileage this time around and I believe there's some fresh snow as of last night or tonight. Somebody posted last week that snowshoes would help for the steeper section above treeline.

Shoot me a text at (304)550-3462 and we can figure out a start time if you're still interested. Worst case, you can go at your own pace knowing at least 1 other person will be on the mountain somewhere.

WV
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Re: anyone else in Co climbing Rainier next summer?

Post by kmensch »

I’m interested in Rainier if anyone wants to take note. I did Liberty Ridge 10 years ago and have also considered a solo attempt on an easier route. I’m not picky on the route but I do want to combine with Hood. If a Rainier partner doesn’t want to join me on Hood, I could do a solo there. I prefer June but am somewhat open.
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