Underrated Glacier Climbs in WA

14ers in California and Washington state or any other peak in the USA
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WhitW
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Underrated Glacier Climbs in WA

Post by WhitW »

I've got plans later this summer (mid august) to head out to Seattle and climb in WA. I've got aspirations to travel to climb a bit more, and so I'm aiming to gain some experience climbing on glaciers and focus on expanding my skillset. I've managed to rope in my uncle and some of his climbing buddies, who've all been climbing in the PNW for a decade for more, so I've got some knowledgeable people to learn from and whom I'm sure have some great ideas for objectives we could attempt, but I'm curious if anyone here has any recommendations for less well known/crowded peaks or routes in WA that are great climbs. We'll have about a 3-day window for the climb. For reference her are some suggestions my uncle already made:

Blue Glacier, Mt. Olympus
Emmons Glacier, Rainier

2 very different climbs, I know, but the point is I'm looking for a heavily glaciated route with some adventure thats doable in 3 days for a decently fit and fast party.

Thanks for any help!
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fishermrtn
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Mount Baker - Squak Glacier / Mount Shuksan - Sulfide Glacier

Post by fishermrtn »

It sounds like a combo trip to the Squak on Baker (https://www.mountainproject.com/route/1 ... ak-glacier) and the Sulfide on Shuksan (https://www.mountainproject.com/route/1 ... de-glacier) could be a great fit for you!

Both involve a large glacier - with Baker's bringing more vert & time on the snow for an easier final summit push and Shuksan delivering a little less glacier travel but a more involved final summit scramble (or roped climb) afterwards.

Right next to each other in a beautiful spot! I hit both last august & they were in condition in spite of the record heat in the PNW.
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RhodoRose
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Re: Underrated Glacier Climbs in WA

Post by RhodoRose »

Glacier Peak, from North Fork Sauk TH via White Pass. One of the most beautiful places I've ever climbed.
Last edited by RhodoRose on Fri Jul 15, 2022 12:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Jon Frohlich
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Re: Underrated Glacier Climbs in WA

Post by Jon Frohlich »

Sahale and Boston Peak. Sahale Arm is one of the most gorgeous places I've ever been.
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Dave B
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Re: Underrated Glacier Climbs in WA

Post by Dave B »

I'd cross Blue Glacier off your list if you only have three days. That's a long approach and the Olympics have pretty wild and unpredictable weather, even in summer. I mean, it could work, but I think the success rate on that peak is pretty low.

I'll second the Boston/Sahale area, gorgeous and quintessential Cascades.

Mt Adams also has some pretty cool routes other than the standard south side.
Make wilderness less accessible.
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Re: Underrated Glacier Climbs in WA

Post by jbealer »

I did glacier last yr, amazing but very small glacier. i would not do that one.

i LOVED baker we did that after glacier.

I just got off Emmons, no summit, ended up in a white out, not sure how great that route will be in Aug, i know bridges are already melting out, its doable but the route will be much longer, we were up there for 3 days.

we thought about Adams but also bad weather while we were out there.
No Mountain too steep, No trail too long....
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