Cotopaxi, Cayambe - January 2018 - Looking for partners

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sevenvii
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Cotopaxi, Cayambe - January 2018 - Looking for partners

Post by sevenvii »

Hey all, I'm looking for experienced partners interested in climbing some of the high volcanoes down in Ecuador in January of 2018. My dates are somewhat flexible as I'll be down in Ecuador for several weeks but want to contain all the acclimatization and climbing to a 7-10 day period.
A sample itinerary that I've come up with may be:
Day 1 - Travel to Quito
Day 2 - Explore Quito
Day 3 - Acclimatize Ruccu Pichincha
Day 4 - Illiniza Norte
Day 5 - Rest
Day 6 - Cayambe
Day 7 - Rest
Day 8 - Cotopaxi
Day 9 - Travel, explore, whatever

Quick summary of me - Male, 37, married with kids, risk tolerance neutral (not afraid to turn around, or push on, defer to conditions not emotions), experience with 20+ snow climbs in Colorado on terrain 35-50 degree. Also climbed Ixta and Orizaba in MX. BMS and HAMS classes through the CMC, but need to brush up on glacier rescue.

I'm wanting to meet up (in person preferably but Skype would work too) to make sure we "click" before committing, also would love to do some pre-trip hikes to make sure we're in good shape and work out whatever logistics that need done.

If this sounds interesting to you please reply here or PM me and let's chat :mrgreen:

Chris
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kaiman
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Re: Cotopaxi, Cayambe - January 2018 - Looking for partners

Post by kaiman »

sevenvii wrote:Hey all, I'm looking for experienced partners interested in climbing some of the high volcanoes down in Ecuador in January of 2018. My dates are somewhat flexible as I'll be down in Ecuador for several weeks but want to contain all the acclimatization and climbing to a 7-10 day period.
A sample itinerary that I've come up with may be:
Day 1 - Travel to Quito
Day 2 - Explore Quito
Day 3 - Acclimatize Ruccu Pichincha
Day 4 - Illiniza Norte
Day 5 - Rest
Day 6 - Cayambe
Day 7 - Rest
Day 8 - Cotopaxi
Day 9 - Travel, explore, whatever

Quick summary of me - Male, 37, married with kids, risk tolerance neutral (not afraid to turn around, or push on, defer to conditions not emotions), experience with 20+ snow climbs in Colorado on terrain 35-50 degree. Also climbed Ixta and Orizaba in MX. BMS and HAMS classes through the CMC, but need to brush up on glacier rescue.

I'm wanting to meet up (in person preferably but Skype would work too) to make sure we "click" before committing, also would love to do some pre-trip hikes to make sure we're in good shape and work out whatever logistics that need done.

If this sounds interesting to you please reply here or PM me and let's chat :mrgreen:

Chris
I'm interested in climbing in Ecuador but won't be available until 2018/2019 due to other mountaineering plans already in place this year. I just wanted to reply to your post with 2 notes: 1) Climbing any of the major volcanoes in Ecuador requires a licensed guide, due to restrictions put into place by the government after an accident on Illiniza Sur. 2) Cotopaxi started erupting in 2015 and is currently closed to climbing due to significant volcanic activity. Not sure how much this will affect your plans, but figured that since you didn't mention it in your OP you may not know about it.

Good luck with your trip and I hope you find some partners,

Kai
"I want to keep the mountains clean of racism, religion and politics. In the mountains this should play no role."

- Joe Stettner

"I haven't climbed Everest, skied to the poles, or sailed single-handed around the world. The goals I set out to accomplish aren't easily measured or quantified by world records or "firsts." The reasons I climb, and the climbs I do, are about more than distance or altitude, they are about breaking barriers within myself."

- Andy Kirkpatrick
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sevenvii
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Re: Cotopaxi, Cayambe - January 2018 - Looking for partners

Post by sevenvii »

Thanks for the info, very much appreciated. I was not aware Cotopaxi was closed, only that the refuge was undergoing some improvements, I'll definitely stay on top of that. I did know about the guide requirement and am getting ready to start the conversation and research.
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kaiman
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Re: Cotopaxi, Cayambe - January 2018 - Looking for partners

Post by kaiman »

sevenvii wrote:Thanks for the info, very much appreciated. I was not aware Cotopaxi was closed, only that the refuge was undergoing some improvements, I'll definitely stay on top of that. I did know about the guide requirement and am getting ready to start the conversation and research.
Glad to help. BTW I've heard mixed reviews on some of the guide services in Ecuador (unreliable, incompetent, etc.) so make sure that you vett whomever you hire. My climbing partner and I plan to use Andean Face http://www.andeanface.com who come recommended by someone he knows who has climbed in Ecuador several times. They also get good reviews online. A lot of American guide companies do trips to Ecuador (RMI, Alpine Ascents, etc.) but they tend to be a lot more expensive when compared to the Ecuadorian companies.

Kai
"I want to keep the mountains clean of racism, religion and politics. In the mountains this should play no role."

- Joe Stettner

"I haven't climbed Everest, skied to the poles, or sailed single-handed around the world. The goals I set out to accomplish aren't easily measured or quantified by world records or "firsts." The reasons I climb, and the climbs I do, are about more than distance or altitude, they are about breaking barriers within myself."

- Andy Kirkpatrick
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Re: Cotopaxi, Cayambe - January 2018 - Looking for partners

Post by desertdog »

kaiman wrote:
sevenvii wrote:Thanks for the info, very much appreciated. I was not aware Cotopaxi was closed, only that the refuge was undergoing some improvements, I'll definitely stay on top of that. I did know about the guide requirement and am getting ready to start the conversation and research.
Glad to help. BTW I've heard mixed reviews on some of the guide services in Ecuador (unreliable, incompetent, etc.) so make sure that you vett whomever you hire. My climbing partner and I plan to use Andean Face http://www.andeanface.com who come recommended by someone he knows who has climbed in Ecuador several times. They also get good reviews online. A lot of American guide companies do trips to Ecuador (RMI, Alpine Ascents, etc.) but they tend to be a lot more expensive when compared to the Ecuadorian companies.

Kai
I've been to Ecuador 3 times and it is a fun country to visit. Andeanface is a really good choice. I used them on my Chimbo climb and they were great. Fredy Tipan, Esteban Mena, or Jaime Avila are quality guides that you could request through AF.

I am planning on heading back in Jan. 18 for Antisana and Illiniza Norte. Maybe we can cross paths. Let me know if I can help with your questions.

Richard
The summit is a source of power. The long view gives one knowledge and time to prepare. The summit, by virtue of the dizzying exposure, leaves one vulnerable. A bit of confidence and a dash of humility is all we get for our work. Yet to share these moments with friends is to be human. C. Anker
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Re: Cotopaxi, Cayambe - January 2018 - Looking for partners

Post by Justin9 »

Another guide recommendation if you're interested. We used High Summits Ecuador and had an excellent experience. Our guide, Patricio Salazar was outstanding. He understood our ability level, conditioning and goals and tailored our days to that perfectly. We climbed Cayambe and Chimbo and preferred Cayambe. If we were to do the same trip again, we would switch Chimbo for Illinisa, so I'm glad to see that on your itinerary.
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Re: Cotopaxi, Cayambe Antisana - January 2018

Post by sevenvii »

I've finally booked my flights and starting to put together itinerary. I've been in discussion with Javier from Andeanface.com and so far that seems like it will be a great fit. I'm also leaning towards Cayambe, Cotopaxi (Javier thinks it may open back up in Oct/Nov 2017) and Antisana.
PM me or reply here if anyone's interested.
Cheers,
Chris
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Re: Cotopaxi, Cayambe - January 2018 - Looking for partners

Post by desertdog »

We are heading down on Jan 11 to climb Antisana. Glad you went with Andeanface. I think you’ll be happy! I heard from a friend that guides down there that Cotopaxi is open for business. Good luck on your climbs.
The summit is a source of power. The long view gives one knowledge and time to prepare. The summit, by virtue of the dizzying exposure, leaves one vulnerable. A bit of confidence and a dash of humility is all we get for our work. Yet to share these moments with friends is to be human. C. Anker
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Re: Cotopaxi, Cayambe - January 2018 - Looking for partners

Post by mtn_nut »

Apparently Cotopaxi is open as of October 4th.

I'll be down there January 19th-25th, but I already have plans and a climbing partner. Hopefully we'll be bagging Ruccu Pichincha, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo if conditions allow.

If you finish climbing before the 19th, I'd appreciate knowing what kind of conditions you encountered.

-Ted
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