New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

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New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by nmjameswilson »

6 months? Unreal! He beat the record by 7 YEARS and 4 months.


https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/ni ... LUakPjAJ90
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by GA_peach »

Just saw this as well, amazing. He must of had some huge breaks in the weather to manage all of that.
Big Congratulations =D> =D>

https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-50217376

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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by mtn_hound »

nmjameswilson wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:35 am 6 months? Unreal! He beat the record by 7 YEARS and 4 months.


https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/ni ... LUakPjAJ90
I didn't realize Everest and Lhotse were close enough together to get them both in a day. Impressive.
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by Scott P »

mtn_hound wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:17 am
nmjameswilson wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:35 am 6 months? Unreal! He beat the record by 7 YEARS and 4 months.


https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/ni ... LUakPjAJ90
I didn't realize Everest and Lhotse were close enough together to get them both in a day. Impressive.
They usually aren't. No one else has ever done it. I wonder what route he took? If he climbed Lhotse from the South Col, he'd be the first person to do so.
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by mtn_hound »

Scott P wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:22 am
mtn_hound wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:17 am
nmjameswilson wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:35 am 6 months? Unreal! He beat the record by 7 YEARS and 4 months.


https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/ni ... LUakPjAJ90
I didn't realize Everest and Lhotse were close enough together to get them both in a day. Impressive.
They usually aren't. No one else has ever done it. I wonder what route he took? If he climbed Lhotse from the South Col, he'd be the first person to do so.
This article says it was done for the first time in 2011 from the South Col

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11s/news ... est-lhotse
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by ZNixon »

NIMS!!!!!

Followed all of the climbs on Insta, and rescues that he assisted with. Such a badass! Congratulations on finishing the project!
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by Scott P »

mtn_hound wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:25 am
Scott P wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:22 am
mtn_hound wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:17 am

I didn't realize Everest and Lhotse were close enough together to get them both in a day. Impressive.
They usually aren't. No one else has ever done it. I wonder what route he took? If he climbed Lhotse from the South Col, he'd be the first person to do so.
This article says it was done for the first time in 2011 from the South Col

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11s/news ... est-lhotse
That was done in 24 hours, rather than on the same day. I believe that from the South Col they traversed over to the standard route of Lhotse rather than the ridge from the South Col.

That's why I'm wondering which route Nirmal Purja took in order to complete them on the same day. Did he climb Lhotse directly from the South Col? Apparently he also did Everest and Lhotse on the same say back in 2017.
Last edited by Scott P on Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by mtn_hound »

Scott P wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:52 am
mtn_hound wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:25 am
Scott P wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:22 am

They usually aren't. No one else has ever done it. I wonder what route he took? If he climbed Lhotse from the South Col, he'd be the first person to do so.
This article says it was done for the first time in 2011 from the South Col

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11s/news ... est-lhotse
That was done in 24 hours, rather than on the same day. I believe that from the South Col they traversed over to the standard route of Lhotse rather than the ridge from the South Col.
Gotcha. Very cool either way.
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by Scott P »

nmjameswilson wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:35 am He beat the record by 7 YEARS and 4 months.
Nirmal Purja is indeed a good climber and his record is incredibly impressive. He has my congradulations and deserves to be honored.

I don't think it's a fair comparison to the previous records though (those set by Messner, Kukuczka, and Chang-ho).

It's still an impressive record, but a different kind of record.

With the exception of Annapurna, Kukuczka climbed all of the 8000ers either by new routes or first winter ascents and without support or supplimental O2.

Purja climbed the mountains (with the exception of K2) with someone else setting up all the fixed lines, camps, and supplies ahead of time, and didn't haul any of his own loads. He also flew from mountain to mountain landing in the base or high camps, rather than at the normal starting points for the peaks. Not only is that a lot faster, but he could choose his weather windows by doing so. He also had a huge supply of bottled O2.

So, his record is still a record and very impressive, but it's kind of an apples and oranges comparison when compared to previous records.

Although the 8000er record is much harder, a comparison could be made on the Colorado 14ers.

If someone had access to air support, drove nearly to the top of Evans and Pikes, and flew into places like Chicago Basin, Snowmass Lake, Capitol Lake, etc., but still summitted all of the peaks, would it still be the 14er record?

I guess it would be a 14er record, but a different type of record than Cavedog's or other's previous records.

PS, I'm not saying that Purja flew to any summits as close as you can drive to Pikes Peak or Evans or that the record isn't a record or that it isn't incredibly impressive. It is impressive and it is a record. I congradulate Purja.

It just seems like a different type of record than the previous ones. It's still really cool either way though.

I wonder if the record will lead to controversy? I hope not, especially since it will take away from the accomplishment, but it might. I guess we'll just have to wait and see how the mountaineering community reacts. I'm just guessing that there are going to be arguements from both sides when discussing the record, or records in the future.
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by LetsGoMets »

ZNixon wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:51 am NIMS!!!!!

Followed all of the climbs on Insta, and rescues that he assisted with. Such a badass! Congratulations on finishing the project!

Same! Followed from the start and donated to his cause. He's superhuman.
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by XterraRob »

Scott P wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 9:18 am
nmjameswilson wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:35 am He beat the record by 7 YEARS and 4 months.
Nirmal Purja is indeed a good climber and his record is incredibly impressive. He has my congradulations and deserves to be honored.

I don't think it's a fair comparison to the previous records though (those set by Messner, Kukuczka, and Chang-ho).

It's still an impressive record, but a different kind of record.

With the exception of Annapurna, Kukuczka climbed all of the 8000ers either by new routes or first winter ascents and without support or supplimental O2.

Purja climbed the mountains (with the exception of K2) with someone else setting up all the fixed lines, camps, and supplies ahead of time, and didn't haul any of his own loads. He also flew from mountain to mountain landing in the base or high camps, rather than at the normal starting points for the peaks. Not only is that a lot faster, but he could choose his weather windows by doing so. He also had a huge supply of bottled O2.

So, his record is still a record and very impressive, but it's kind of an apples and oranges comparison when compared to previous records.

Although the 8000er record is much harder, a comparison could be made on the Colorado 14ers.

If someone had access to air support, drove nearly to the top of Evans and Pikes, and flew into places like Chicago Basin, Snowmass Lake, Capitol Lake, etc., but still summitted all of the peaks, would it still be the 14er record?

I guess it would be a 14er record, but a different type of record than Cavedog's or other's previous records.

PS, I'm not saying that Purja flew to any summits as close as you can drive to Pikes Peak or Evans or that the record isn't a record or that it isn't incredibly impressive. It is impressive and it is a record. I congradulate Purja.

It just seems like a different type of record than the previous ones. It's still really cool either way though.

I wonder if the record will lead to controversy? I hope not, especially since it will take away from the accomplishment, but it might. I guess we'll just have to wait and see how the mountaineering community reacts. I'm just guessing that there are going to be arguements from both sides when discussing the record, or records in the future.
Oh man... here we go. :lol:
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by cottonmountaineering »

XterraRob wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 12:30 pm
Scott P wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 9:18 am
nmjameswilson wrote: Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:35 am He beat the record by 7 YEARS and 4 months.
Nirmal Purja is indeed a good climber and his record is incredibly impressive. He has my congradulations and deserves to be honored.

I don't think it's a fair comparison to the previous records though (those set by Messner, Kukuczka, and Chang-ho).

It's still an impressive record, but a different kind of record.

With the exception of Annapurna, Kukuczka climbed all of the 8000ers either by new routes or first winter ascents and without support or supplimental O2.

Purja climbed the mountains (with the exception of K2) with someone else setting up all the fixed lines, camps, and supplies ahead of time, and didn't haul any of his own loads. He also flew from mountain to mountain landing in the base or high camps, rather than at the normal starting points for the peaks. Not only is that a lot faster, but he could choose his weather windows by doing so. He also had a huge supply of bottled O2.

So, his record is still a record and very impressive, but it's kind of an apples and oranges comparison when compared to previous records.

Although the 8000er record is much harder, a comparison could be made on the Colorado 14ers.

If someone had access to air support, drove nearly to the top of Evans and Pikes, and flew into places like Chicago Basin, Snowmass Lake, Capitol Lake, etc., but still summitted all of the peaks, would it still be the 14er record?

I guess it would be a 14er record, but a different type of record than Cavedog's or other's previous records.

PS, I'm not saying that Purja flew to any summits as close as you can drive to Pikes Peak or Evans or that the record isn't a record or that it isn't incredibly impressive. It is impressive and it is a record. I congradulate Purja.

It just seems like a different type of record than the previous ones. It's still really cool either way though.

I wonder if the record will lead to controversy? I hope not, especially since it will take away from the accomplishment, but it might. I guess we'll just have to wait and see how the mountaineering community reacts. I'm just guessing that there are going to be arguements from both sides when discussing the record, or records in the future.
Oh man... here we go. :lol:
There is no controversy, only armchair mountaineering by people who have zero high altitude experience. Go do one 8000m peak Scott and get back to us lol
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