First Free of Satan's Ridge

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Been_Jammin
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Re: First Free of Satan's Ridge

Post by Been_Jammin »

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wxx-soVSVms

Stumbled on this video. These dudes (impressively) climbed Capitols NW Buttress (5.9) before climbing Satan's Ridge. It appears they solo'd or mostly solo'd Satan's ridge. Cool project.
d_baker
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Re: First Free of Satan's Ridge

Post by d_baker »

Been_Jammin wrote: Mon Oct 18, 2021 3:54 pm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wxx-soVSVms

Stumbled on this video. These dudes (impressively) climbed Capitols NW Buttress (5.9) before climbing Satan's Ridge. It appears they solo'd or mostly solo'd Satan's ridge. Cool project.
That guy has some trip reports here. Good reports, I should add.
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climbingcue
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Re: First Free of Satan's Ridge

Post by climbingcue »

d_baker wrote: Mon Oct 18, 2021 7:21 pm
Been_Jammin wrote: Mon Oct 18, 2021 3:54 pm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wxx-soVSVms

Stumbled on this video. These dudes (impressively) climbed Capitols NW Buttress (5.9) before climbing Satan's Ridge. It appears they solo'd or mostly solo'd Satan's ridge. Cool project.
That guy has some trip reports here. Good reports, I should add.
Matt has done some really cool projects, I got to meet him the 1st time I did Little Bear. He was skiing some super narrow gullies. He has a great trip report about that weekend, here it is if you would like to read it.

https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=19316
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Ngrage1127
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Re: First Free of Satan's Ridge

Post by Ngrage1127 »

Hi I’m Noah grage. I had n account on here for a bit but I got locked out of it haha. Matt Randall and I climbed satans ridge a few days before Paul and tacked the NW buttress on to start. We roped up for the first 2 pitches on the buttress with a small rack and 8.0 rope then soloed to the summit. Leaving capitol is real scary then we down climbed the 5.7 off capitol and soloed 99.9% direct without rappelling. We skirted next to one final gendarme on 5.6/7 loose directly to the right. But after watching Paul’s video I would much rather go up and over it than what Matt and I did. Rock was worse… we have video of it. I don’t condone this ridge honestly and didn’t know if it’d pop on up here. The camera angles are pretty accurate in Paul and our videos. Honestly they are contorted slightly (GoPro) but understate exposure. we have a video up on YouTube as well that was posted ^ And I have more pics and photos saved. Kudos to Paul Davis. Dude is a real one and wasnt looking to make it look sketchier. It was a smooth day though. The summit of snowmass was my also my 100th 14er… :) memorable day.
Last edited by Ngrage1127 on Sat Jan 08, 2022 8:28 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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davisrice4
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Re: First Free of Satan's Ridge

Post by davisrice4 »

Ngrage1127 wrote: Thu Jan 06, 2022 1:02 am Hi I’m Noah grage. I had n account on here for a bit but I got locked out of it haha. Matt Randall and I climbed satans ridge a few days before Paul and tacked the NW buttress on to start. We roped up for the first 2 pitches on the buttress with a small rack and 8.0 rope then soloed to the summit. Leaving capitol is real scary then we down climbed the 5.7 off capitol and soloed 99.9% direct without rappelling. We skirted next to one final gendarme on 5.7 loose directly to the right. But after watching Paul’s video I would much rather go up and over it than what Matt and I did. Rock was way worse… we have video of it. I don’t condone this ridge honestly though and didn’t know if it’d pop on up here. The camera angles are pretty accurate in Paul and our videos. Honestly they are contorted slightly (GoPro) but understate exposure. we have a video up on YouTube as well that was posted ^ And I have more pics and photos saved. Kudos to Paul Davis. Dude is a real one and wasnt looking to make it look sketchier. Real mountain dude. It was a smooth day though. The summit of snowmass was my also my 100th 14er… :) memorable day indeed.
You're a boss Noah, looked like a(nother) hell of a season down in patagonia for you. Congrats man and keep crushing it. If you ever want to strap some skis on and ski some peaks you know who to call :wink:
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Re: First Free of Satan's Ridge

Post by Ngrage1127 »

My guy @davisrice4! Absolutely man. I would love to! Hopefully you accept splitboarders… 😂
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gonefishing05
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Re: First Free of Satan's Ridge

Post by gonefishing05 »

Id rather free solo a 5.8 with solid rock than do a 4th class ridge scramble with that rock quality.

That rock just doesnt look enjoyable at all.
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Candace66
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Re: First Free of Satan's Ridge

Post by Candace66 »

John Prater wrote: Wed Sep 29, 2021 10:13 am
OldTrad wrote: Wed Sep 29, 2021 9:50 am Can anyone here confirm whether Paul was wearing "trail runners" (as someone here surmised earlier in this thread), or perhaps some kind of approach shoes?
Yes, he was wearing La Sportiva Mutants. They're trail runners, but they've got good sticky rubber (though fresh out of the box, they're not ideal - better after getting some miles on the outsoles).
I wear La Sportiva Ultra Raptor trail runners. As daily wear and sometimes for hiking, not for running. Their soles have excellent traction, better than my Vibram-soled boots. Reading the specs, the outsoles on the Mutants have even stickier rubber. But even then, he is putting them to the test, to say the least! :shock:

That traverse is orders of magnitude above my level. I chicken out on class 3 sometimes, lol. :oops: Thanks for the link.

P.S. Should this really be in the "Info for 14er Beginners" forum?! :wft:
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Re: First Free of Satan's Ridge

Post by -wren- »

As awesome as this is and as happy as I am for this guy it does hurt me a little to hear the panicked breathing while looking for holds on a couple of those downclimbs. Personally I’d never want to be pushing my limits like that in trail runners without a rope. You can tell he’s starting to get pumped in 1 or 2 spots…scary stuff.
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Re: First Free of Satan's Ridge

Post by TomPierce »

-wren- wrote: Sat Jan 08, 2022 11:46 pm As awesome as this is and as happy as I am for this guy it does hurt me a little to hear the panicked breathing while looking for holds on a couple of those downclimbs. Personally I’d never want to be pushing my limits like that in trail runners without a rope. You can tell he’s starting to get pumped in 1 or 2 spots…scary stuff.
+1K. My comments on p.2 of this post were not complimentary. The "Free Solo" movie probably stoked the interest in soloing, but soloing has a dark history as well. Derek Hersey, etc. many other great climbers are now in their graves. I occasionally solo something too but only if I'm sure it's way, way within my limits, has sort of decent rock, acceptable exposure. Climbing solo at your limits on sketchy rock with exposure? That's just an accident waiting to happen. And fwiw, certainly nothing I'd advertise. My opinions.

-Tom
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davisrice4
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Re: First Free of Satan's Ridge

Post by davisrice4 »

TomPierce wrote: Sun Jan 09, 2022 9:51 am
-wren- wrote: Sat Jan 08, 2022 11:46 pm As awesome as this is and as happy as I am for this guy it does hurt me a little to hear the panicked breathing while looking for holds on a couple of those downclimbs. Personally I’d never want to be pushing my limits like that in trail runners without a rope. You can tell he’s starting to get pumped in 1 or 2 spots…scary stuff.
+1K. My comments on p.2 of this post were not complimentary. The "Free Solo" movie probably stoked the interest in soloing, but soloing has a dark history as well. Derek Hersey, etc. many other great climbers are now in their graves. I occasionally solo something too but only if I'm sure it's way, way within my limits, has sort of decent rock, acceptable exposure. Climbing solo at your limits on sketchy rock with exposure? That's just an accident waiting to happen. And fwiw, certainly nothing I'd advertise. My opinions.

-Tom
The difficulty is without a doubt well within their limits. I am confident Noah, Matt, and Paul can all climb 5.11-5.12 pretty easy. The 5.7 crux is not a physical limit for them, nor really anywhere near the difficulty that would be. The "panicked breathing" could also just be used to focus or supply oxygen to the brain. Its a bit insulting to call it "an accident waiting to happen" when you are not sure of their abilities IMO.
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Re: First Free of Satan's Ridge

Post by FireOnTheMountain »

-wren- wrote: Sat Jan 08, 2022 11:46 pmPersonally I’d never want to be pushing my limits like that in trail runners without a rope. You can tell he’s starting to get pumped in 1 or 2 spots…scary stuff.
You got some pretty impressive arm chair deciphering skillz. Apart from that, what you gonna rope up to, dude (or dudette)? Just cause you got a "rope" doesn't mean shits all of a sudden safer and easier. Not to mention the major time sink.
Everyday is a G r A t E f U L Day here in the ID...?
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