Introducing winter backcountry to a friend

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stickmann
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Introducing winter backcountry to a friend

Post by stickmann »

Does anyone have recommendations for a good introductory mountain in the Sangres for winter climbing? This would be the last week of December or early January. 14ers, 13ers, 12ers, doesn't really matter. I'm more interested in getting out there to show crampon use and maybe self arrest, if the terrain is appropriate. Most importantly, it would be to work out layering systems, understanding how short days are, and adjusting to extra gear and weather in winter. My friend is a better rock climber than me and I don't want to bore him but also need to be conservative initially.

Things I would like:
  • Short approach (also allows for easy bail, RT distance less than ~14 miles)
  • Ridge scramble
  • Low angle snow slope
  • Sangre de Cristo range

Things I would not like:
  • Couloirs or gullies
  • Overnight trip
  • Focusing too much on the final destination

I've been eyeing something near Blanca/Ellingwood but the approach from Como or Zapata is longer than I'd like. Humboldt would be good but maybe a little boring, though this is the route I'm leaning most towards since we'd have options to go either East or West ridge depending on snow conditions. This all hinges on the Sangres actually getting some snow before the end of the month, too..
Ptglhs
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Re: Introducing winter backcountry to a friend

Post by Ptglhs »

Humboldt's winter east ridge gets you many of the things you're looking for. It's not a short approach though, depending on your car. Right now it's so dry, and early in the season, that crampons are more harm than help, and you shouldn't be self arresting on the lower angled slopes. I would get out there and get some familiarity with how short the days are, good layering options to stay dry from the outside when dealing with snow, and from the inside when dealing with sweat; you'll also need very different layers at the start, middle, and end of the hike depending sun (before or after dark) and the wind above treeline. Another factor is a great many trailheads will be closed for the season so you'll be hiking from much lower down. California from Zapata falls will be open, but it's a longer hike.

I wouldn't try to do Blanca and Ellingwood as a day hike, especially from Zapata. I think it was 8 hours for me from tent to tent to get both peaks when I camped out at Zapata lake. Hopefully someone who has more familiarity with the lower peaks in the Sangres will chime in.
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SchralpTheGnar
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Re: Introducing winter backcountry to a friend

Post by SchralpTheGnar »

Humboldt is you’re best bet and if they are bored find a different winter climbing partner
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-wren-
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Re: Introducing winter backcountry to a friend

Post by -wren- »

13660 can be climbed via its west ridge without treading onto avalanche terrain and it’s a great class 3 scramble. Very surprised that it is unnamed, it has plenty of character and looks quite handsome from many angles. The summit view is fantastic
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jrbren_vt
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Re: Introducing winter backcountry to a friend

Post by jrbren_vt »

Maybe these ? :

Mt Marcy (it’s on my hitlist for 2022 because I turned back from it in summer 2021) :
https://caltopo.com/map.html#ll=38.1406 ... ,0.25&a=sf
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=9506 (not my trip report but looks relevant since this individual did it in December)
I am thinking bushwack up the east ridge. Not sure if trails would help anyway if they are covered in snow unless they are really popular and they are a boot track. If you google for it there is a GPX file for it, I have it downloaded on my GAIA library.

Little Horn Peak (also on my hitlist for 2022 because I turned back from it in summer 2021) :
https://caltopo.com/map.html#ll=38.0272 ... ,0.25&a=sf
See trip reports on this site, several are done in winter.

Comanche Peak (via Comanche trail) :
https://caltopo.com/map.html#ll=38.0467 ... ,0.25&a=sf
I suggest this one because I did it summer 2021 and it did not seem that bad, but there is one section on the Comanche trail that looks like it crosses avalanche prone slopes if they are loaded right before the final summit ridge.

Disclaimer : My avalanche travel experience is very limited, I hesitated to post this.
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Best Regards
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