Winter Peaks for Beginners

[BillMiddlebrook]

Any edits and feedback are welcome. Thanks!
I fixed the ones mentioned so far and added PREVIOUS/NEXT buttons to the bottom of each page.

To address the "beginners" issue, I slapped a warning on the 1st page to make it clear this information is intended to help those with experience get into hiking 14ers in the winter months.

[Scott P]

To me it seems that Sherman and Grays/Torreys categories should be switched,, even if you take the alternate route up Sherman in the winter. Sherman is usually easier and shorter in winter than Grays/Torreys and it usually receives a lot less snow.

[BillMiddlebrook]

To me it seems that Sherman and Grays/Torreys categories should be switched,, even if you take the alternate route up Sherman in the winter. Sherman is usually easier and shorter in winter than Grays/Torreys and it usually receives a lot less snow.

Yeah, they could probably be switched. Both have potential for avalanche danger. Unless Grays has a lot of snow-loading, the G/T avy danger is mostly away from the standard route if one uses the advice in the route description to stay away from the base of Kelso.

Sherman, on the other hand, has a bit of avalanche danger along the south slope (winter) route. Small slides can occur in the small bowls leading up to the pitch between Sherman and White Ridge and there can also be some loading near the saddle.

Anyone else have thoughts on this?

[justiner]

I know you walk a fine line when it comes to endorsing a potentially dangerous activity. I wouldn't be against just adding a simple description on how to read the avalanche forecasts provided by https://avalanche.state.co.us/ (or if there is a resource that does a great job, link to that). Basic ideas to get across: Green doesn't necessarily mean Go, noting which rating sees the most avalanche accidents (Hint: it's not red), that sort of stuff.

I'm also seeing a lot of references of being prepared to spend a night out in winter if things go sideways. There's some good text about how margins in the winter are slim, but spending a night out on a peak in winter and surviving with all your fingers and toes is unlikely. Not to be gruesome or to scare the reader, but I would suggest linking to some stories about actually times where people did spend a night out, like Brad's story on Evans, or the story of the man who lost his legs on Shavano. I bet many fair-weather summer hikers will also be a little surprised at how much daylight you don't have in the winter, coupled with how slower you go, so the chances that you get surprised benighted might be higher.

Just some thoughts. This is ultimately a good resource - most info is better than less. Winter is also so variable, where we'll have a season of no snow and relatively easy/safe conditions, then it's beyond dangerous for a month, surprising again people who are expecting safety. I know y'all know this. Hard to get into that beginner's mindset for sure.

[the_hare]

Anyone else have thoughts on this?

I was also wondering about a switch, considering the significantly greater mileage and gain for G/T from the lower TH and that some sections of the road up to Sherman from the "Park here" sign are either packed down with snowmobiles or windblown to dirt. I was thinking about the "human factor" for the G/T standard route as well where someone might see skin or snowshoe tracks below Kelso's avy slopes and consider it to be ok against prior research. Perhaps to me there's been similar accidents for Sherman, but to me G/T via standard seems that it would be easier to have a fatal lapse in judgment than Sherman S Slopes

Still this is an incredible resource! Outstanding work @Joel & everyone else for putting this together, very informative and smoothly written! The little blurbs from OG 14er & winter folks are a nice touch too!

[mw88888888]

A comment on snowboarding the 14ers. The article makes it sound like the only good way is with split boards. Horse hockey. Climbing steep hard pack with cleated snowshoes is awesome! Switch to crampons in couloirs is same as with skis. And I snowboard in mountaineering boots which makes that switch a breeze.

I’ve been backcountry snowboarding since 1984. If I had wanted to split board I would have. But I know, and love, to ski as well, so what is the point? I’ve put my money into snowboards, lots of them, and still only snowboard in my comfy mountaineering boots. So if conditions warrant a ski, I ski, if otherwise I use my snowshoes and snowboard. It is a vary nice way to go. Like snowboard or ski, they are just tools and you pick the right tool for the day.

[Bean]

Climbing steep hard pack with cleated snowshoes is awesome!

It really isn't. Frankly, nothing involving snowshoes is "awesome." Splitboards exist to fix some of the problems inherent with backcountry snowboarding, and do so with not too many drawbacks these days. I understand being a retrogrouch but this battle was over a long time ago.

[Conor]

I would add a purpose section. while it is labeled as for "Beginners," I would clarify there are many ways to skin a cat and the section is intended to help people get started safely until they can develop their own style. Otherwise, there is the nit picky debates or the people who passionately defend what is written as if moses brought it off the mountain inscribed in stone.

I would also add a link to summit post 14ers page, which has a lot of good information.

I think it is a good addition, and a lot of people put in a lot of work. Thanks, and good work.

[mw88888888]

Not so, bean. Ever have to put ski crampons on? Not needed with snowshoes. Awesome! Ever had to switch out in a blizzard? Easy with shoes! Sweet! Down mountain descents are the ideal use with snowshoes.

Not a grouch, enlightened. Split boarding did not invent backcountry snowboarding, it’s just a tool. I prefer not to use them, as I make other choices. You are free to make your own. If there are problems with the conditions and snowshoes (too deep as example) I’ll just ski. It sounds more like people who put down snowshoes just don’t know how and when to use them. I used to deal with this when snowboarding in the early 90s. People are very closed minded. And mean. But I really can’t help that, I can just make sure folks know there are options. And they work fine.

[cottonmountaineering]

looks good, there a ton of 13ers that are good winter climbs but i'd rather keep them off the radar.

[justiner]

looks good, there a ton of 13ers that are good winter climbs but i'd rather keep them off the radar.

In that vein, it may not be a bad idea to talk about Sniktau from Loveland Pass as being a good "first' before even doing a 14er in Winter, as it gives you a little taste of conditions may be like hiking above treeline in winter, without having to invest in even Quandary.

[Trotter]

looks good, there a ton of 13ers that are good winter climbs but i'd rather keep them off the radar.

In that vein, it may not be a bad idea to talk about Sniktau from Loveland Pass as being a good "first' before even doing a 14er in Winter, as it gives you a little taste of conditions may be like hiking above treeline in winter, without having to invest in even Quandary.

Well maybe. You get to experience the cold and wind, but its usually blown clear and no snow over an inch, no need for traction or flotation, etc. So maybe list it, but as about 30% as hard as quandary. Its an intro to a beginners course.