Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

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Alpinefroggy
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Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

Post by Alpinefroggy »

Hello,

I will be formally moving to Colorado as a graduate student at CU this August barring things still being COVIDey. I have become enthralled with 14ers like many though I am not new to Colorado. I am trying to get a feel for where I stand with regards what 14ers I would like to do. My goal is to do as many 14ers as I deem to be comfortable with. Ones I already know I will not be doing at all, even after many years of experience

Capitol
North Maroon
Maroon
Little Bear
Pyramid.

All the traverses.

Just too exposed, too loose, too much route finding and definitely too technical. And there are more I might add to that list like Snowmass, Sunlight and the Eoluses and CN (I will get back to this one in a bit).

Some things about me:
-I am fit right now, I currently live at see level.
- I am a very experienced hiker, not climber, doing many things in the Sierra Nevada in California.
-I have done one 14er, Longs peak in 2018. Which I had a lot of fun with. It was within my skill range, I was not over my head physically, the altitude did not bother me and I think chose to do the hike 'properly' in other words I started really early and was the first person to the keyhole that Saturday and one of the first to the summit and get back down. I had a rock climbing helmet. I think I was within my range for this mountain and demonstrably so.
-I lack the technical climbing ability, route finding and I possess a lack of an understanding of what truly is within my range and perhaps even an ego

This combination of things sets me up I think to be in the right category to get myself into problems. In hindsight, I should have started with a much easier mountain. But I am also the kind of person who get fixated on things including climbs. And with 14ers this isn't like some complicated or hard class in college where I overestimate my abilities. If I get myself into something problematic. The consequences could can be drastic. Much moreso than at worst taking an F.

I got fixated on doing a trip to the Sangres to do the two Crestone this September. As some of my early 14ers? That is definitely a mistake and I was and am almost certainly not thinking about this whole thing correctly.

So I need to take a big step back. Reassess my abilities and do some much easier 14ers. I was thinking of doing the Democrat, Bross, Cameron, Lincoln loop/Bierstadt/Grays+Torrey's/Quandary as my first 14er(s) coming back to Colorado this late summer (barring things opening up which the state will see and I am not interested in breaking ANY rules) and then following it up with something more physically challenging but not technical. Namely Mountain of the Holy Cross standard route. Since I am also living in Boulder, I am also looking at South Arapaho peak, Mt. Audoban and lots of hiking in IPW and RMNP I am looking to do that is not technical.

Or is even that too much?
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Re: Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

Post by Ptglhs »

A lot of this is glorified walking. If you can put one foot in front of the other than you'll be fine on well over half of these mountains over 14,000 feet. If you're worried about it just stick to the standard routes on class 1 and Class 2 Peaks. As you get more of a handle on it keep going. If you're nervous about it try to team up with someone who has done other class three or four Peaks and do a class 3 with them. If you can handle Longs you can probably handle all but a dozen 14ers without any real difficulty.

13ers see less traffic, and have less developed routes. They're more difficult in terms of route-finding than 14ers. If you do a 14er on a weekend in July or Aug you will have plenty of company.

If a route feels too hard to move them back up. You're either off the standard, easiest route, or that route is too difficult for you and you shouldn't be on the mountain anyway. The best way to keep yourself safe is to be willing to turn back when you get over your head, inclement weather develops, or you're not feeling well.
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Re: Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

Post by peter303 »

One aspect of the Sangre De Christos is they are relatively long trips- two very long days, preferably a third day if you have the time. Its 4-5 hours of driving each way. In Roach's guidebooks he adds the concept of approaches- a rough drive or long hike just to get to a "trailhead". A schedule might might be drive up Sat AM, do the approach Sat PM, camp, climb Sun AM, inverse approach Sun PM, drive back Sunday night.

In contrast many of the close-in 14ers are long day trips: leave 4AM and return by mid afternoon.
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Re: Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

Post by jmanner »

peter303 wrote: Mon May 11, 2020 7:14 pm One aspect of the Sangre De Christos is they are relatively long trips- two very long days, preferably a third day if you have the time. Its 4-5 hours of driving each way. In Roach's guidebooks he adds the concept of approaches- a rough drive or long hike just to get to a "trailhead". A schedule might might be drive up Sat AM, do the approach Sat PM, camp, climb Sun AM, inverse approach Sun PM, drive back Sunday night.

In contrast many of the close-in 14ers are long day trips: leave 4AM and return by mid afternoon.
I’m not sure I agree with you on that. You can easily day trip any of the Sangre from the trailheads in summer. The backpack into the South Colony Lakes, is worth the trip for its own sake, but certainly not requiring a two night trip for one of them. Truely, if you are fit and can move quickly at altitude, you can easily day trip all the 14ers from metro Denver, except the further San Juans.
A man has got to know his limitations.-Dr. Jonathan Hemlock or Harry Callahan or something F' it: http://youtu.be/lpzqQst-Sg8

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Re: Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

Post by ezabielski »

If you're actually an experienced hiker, and you enjoyed Longs, then you really don't have much to worry about. The information on this website is all you need to get out and enjoy tons of mountains. There are 42 14ers to do that are equal or easier to the Keyhole route on Longs. Plenty to keep you busy.

https://www.14ers.com/routes_bydifficulty.php

Crestone Needle is a fabulous climb. It involves more route finding than Longs, but the scrambling is super solid. Humboldt has one of the best views from a summit IMO. Haven't done Crestone Peak yet. Those should be fine in early September. You can also find partners on here if you don't want to go alone. Or you could do something closer to home.

And join the CU Hiking Club!
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Re: Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

Post by jmanner »

The problem with C Needle, is the route finding for the easier route. Several folks have died getting off route. The safer option( and more fun) is to take the class 4 route to the summit.
A man has got to know his limitations.-Dr. Jonathan Hemlock or Harry Callahan or something F' it: http://youtu.be/lpzqQst-Sg8

'Life is too short to ski groomers'

"That man's only desire was to stand, once only, on the summit of that glorious wedge of rock...I think anyone who loves the mountains as much as that can claim to be a mountaineer, too."-Hermann Buhl, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage
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Re: Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

Post by Alpinefroggy »

jmanner wrote: Mon May 11, 2020 8:23 pm The problem with C Needle, is the route finding for the easier route. Several folks have died getting off route. The safer option( and more fun) is to take the class 4 route to the summit.
Meaning I take the route that goes up the east gully all the way and avoid the traverse all together. The line between class 3 and class 4 is undefined in my head though. And I suspect I have done some class 4 stuff in the past and did not know it. Fortunately the flatirons have some class 4 and class 5 stuff I can go check out (though not try!).

It’s funny because I never considered how more technical climbing can be safer. I am learning new things then.
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Re: Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

Post by jmanner »

Alpinefroggy wrote: Mon May 11, 2020 8:37 pm
jmanner wrote: Mon May 11, 2020 8:23 pm The problem with C Needle, is the route finding for the easier route. Several folks have died getting off route. The safer option( and more fun) is to take the class 4 route to the summit.
Meaning I take the route that goes up the east gully all the way and avoid the traverse all together. The line between class 3 and class 4 is undefined in my head though. And I suspect I have done some class 4 stuff in the past and did not know it. Fortunately the flatirons have some class 4 and class 5 stuff I can go check out (though not try!).

It’s funny because I never considered how more technical climbing can be safer.
Yea you just take the East gully right to the summit ridge and walk over to the summit. It’s easier than Freeway.
A man has got to know his limitations.-Dr. Jonathan Hemlock or Harry Callahan or something F' it: http://youtu.be/lpzqQst-Sg8

'Life is too short to ski groomers'

"That man's only desire was to stand, once only, on the summit of that glorious wedge of rock...I think anyone who loves the mountains as much as that can claim to be a mountaineer, too."-Hermann Buhl, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage
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Re: Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

Post by nyker »

Welcome to your soon to be new home!

As others mentioned, if you felt ok on Longs, you'll be in pretty good shape on most other 14ers up their "standard routes".

The one difference on the Keyhole Route on Longs compared to other routes on more challenging peaks is that the route on Longs is pretty clearly marked and is a heavily traveled route adding some comfort that would probably increase the level of difficulty if it were unmarked and more remote.

What have you done in the Sierra? Many of those 13er and 14ers are tough with longer approaches and have legit Class3/4 summit sections.

Once you do a few more peaks and get your mountain legs you'll get a feel of where your comfort zone is. One big thing you'll need to become in tune with particularly higher up will be your decision making, which you're already on the way to bolster by doing research now.
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Re: Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

Post by Alpinefroggy »

nyker wrote: Mon May 11, 2020 8:59 pm Welcome to your soon to be new home!

As others mentioned, if you felt ok on Longs, you'll be in pretty good shape on most other 14ers up their "standard routes".

The one difference on the Keyhole Route on Longs compared to other routes on more challenging peaks is that the route on Longs is pretty clearly marked and is a heavily traveled route adding some comfort that would probably increase the level of difficulty if it were unmarked and more remote.

What have you done in the Sierra? Many of those 13er and 14ers are tough with longer approaches and have legit Class3/4 summit sections.

Once you do a few more peaks and get your mountain legs you'll get a feel of where your comfort zone is. One big thing you'll need to become in tune with particularly higher up will be your decision making, which you're already on the way to bolster by doing research now.
Yeah, I haven’t had a ton of route finding experience. I did the classic front ranger, oh I see that peak from all over so I should go do it when I spent a summer in Fort Collins.

I haven’t done any climbs or peaks in the sierras. Only hiking. Meaning sometimes remote but non technical backpacking and dayhiking. Lots of stuff in Tahoe, lots of stuff in Yosemite. Some stuff in the high Sierra. Plenty of backpacking. Some hard scrambles to get to high points for views. Never done Whitney or anything like that though.

I am perfectly ok however with long approaches at altitude though. I have had lots of time above 10000 feet backpacking and camping in the sierras.
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Re: Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

Post by Eli Boardman »

From one college student to another, welcome! (I'm an undergrad and not at CU, but still.)

Sounds like you've got more experience than you may be giving yourself credit for, and a good attitude too. You're going to have some great times I think! The Indian Peaks are indeed a great place to get started close to Boulder--Audubon is super easy and you can traverse to Paiute (easy off trail hiking), Apache is great, and the South-North Arapaho traverse is classic when you want some more scrambling that is perhaps just a bit tougher (but shorter) than Longs.
Alpinefroggy wrote: Mon May 11, 2020 8:37 pmFortunately the flatirons have some class 4 and class 5 stuff I can go check out (though not try!).
The Flatirons are a ton of fun, but their ratings won't give you a good idea about 14er routes. "Class 4" in the Flatirons is an entirely different type of climbing, and arguably a lot scarier, than anything on any of the 14er standard routes. That said, you'll probably find yourself climbing some of them eventually. :wink: Obligatory self-trip-report-promotion for when you (almost) inevitably get interested in Flatiron scrambles: https://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=17675
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Re: Reassessing myself, is this a good place to begin?

Post by Alpinefroggy »

Eli Boardman wrote: Mon May 11, 2020 9:10 pm From one college student to another, welcome! (I'm an undergrad and not at CU, but still.)

Sounds like you've got more experience than you may be giving yourself credit for, and a good attitude too. You're going to have some great times I think! The Indian Peaks are indeed a great place to get started close to Boulder--Audubon is super easy and you can traverse to Paiute (easy off trail hiking), Apache is great, and the South-North Arapaho traverse is classic when you want some more scrambling that is perhaps just a bit tougher (but shorter) than Longs.
Alpinefroggy wrote: Mon May 11, 2020 8:37 pmFortunately the flatirons have some class 4 and class 5 stuff I can go check out (though not try!).
The Flatirons are a ton of fun, but their ratings won't give you a good idea about 14er routes. "Class 4" in the Flatirons is an entirely different type of climbing, and arguably a lot scarier, than anything on any of the 14er standard routes. That said, you'll probably find yourself climbing some of them eventually. :wink: Obligatory self-trip-report-promotion for when you (almost) inevitably get interested in Flatiron scrambles: https://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=17675
Thanks for the enthusiasm :).

I’d much rather underestimate my skills though and make sure I keep myself safe. I want to have somewhat on rails fun and challenge with the 14ers and 13ers only. Not stupid or scary experiences.
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