Castle Peak Photo #16

[jsf80238]

I have a question about Photo #16 in the description of the Northeast Ridge route to Castle Peak.

The photo shows 4 arrows and an X. The second arrow from the bottom: approximately how many feet from the bottom of that arrow to the top of that arrow? I ask because Difficult Class 2 is my absolute limit and I'm trying to guess how hard that part is.

I should mention I will be doing this when there is no snow.

[timewarp01]

The arrow is about the height of a person. Most of the terraces along the ridge are less than ten feet tall.

[madmattd]

The arrow is about the height of a person. Most of the terraces along the ridge are less than ten feet tall.

Yea, that was my recollection. Fairly easy step section, I recall downclimbing it facing out. If you stay on the ridge there, it definitely is 2+/3- with minimal exposure. You definitely don't want to go around by the "X" even though there are paths that way. I'm pretty sure that's where we went astray on the way up and there were some sketchy gravel mini-gulleys to cross with no-fall zones along that way. We made it, but I wasn't happy about it. Ridge proper down (vs decending the saddle) was a piece of cake.

[glenmiz]

The arrow is about the height of a person. Most of the terraces along the ridge are less than ten feet tall.

You definitely don't want to go around by the "X" even though there are paths that way. I'm pretty sure that's where we went astray on the way up and there were some sketchy gravel mini-gulleys to cross with no-fall zones along that way. We made it, but I wasn't happy about it. Ridge proper down (vs decending the saddle) was a piece of cake.

+1

[Alpinefroggy]

Just a thought.

Castle and Conundrum are absolutely falling apart. I felt more sketched out on the ridge to castle than I did on many parts of Pyramid. The rock is just absolutely rotten on that ridge. Multiple times I found rocks that I thought were solid to be mobile refridgerators.

So while the diffculty is not anymore than class 2+, I feel like the true danger is higher there than some other class 3 peaks or lines.

[Imcp]

There's quite a bit of horizontal distance at that arrow that doesn't show well in the picture. The area shown in Photo 19 was worse in my opinion, so if that area looks comfortable, photo 16 should be fine. Edit: Photo 19 is only slightly better on the horizontal distance. Mainly the area within 10 feet of the bottom of the saddle is what I am referring to.

[jsf80238]

There's quite a bit of horizontal distance at that arrow that doesn't show well in the picture. The area shown in Photo 19 was worse in my opinion, so if that area looks comfortable, photo 16 should be fine. Edit: Photo 19 is only slightly better on the horizontal distance. Mainly the area within 10 feet of the bottom of the saddle is what I am referring to.

Ok, thank you. I guess they look about the same to me. I guess I can always turn around. And I guess I should leave my dog at home.

[mtree]

I did not run into any class 3 moves on Castle. As someone mentioned, its the crappy rock you have to worry about. The hike up and along the ridge is easy enough although there is some exposure. Watch your step and stay on trail. I thought the final 300 feet to the summit was some of the worst, loose rock I've ever been on.

Not the best climb to bring a pooch. Rock hazard is real.

[DeTour]

As long as you stick to the ridge, Castle is easy class 2 until you get to the summit pitch - no harder than half the peaks that you've climbed.

Once you gain the ridge, you only depart very briefly, pretty much immediately after gaining it - as shown in photos 14 and 15. As you bypass those initial towers, keep your eyes focused on finding the gully to ascent to regain the ridge. We made what sounds like the same mistake madmattd described, continuing to follow a sort-of trail around the right. It went, but unpleasantly. Return along the ridge was a piece of cake.

The ledges in photo 16 are mostly relatively solid, block stair-steppy stuff. No real hand-hold climbing required, hence the class 2 rating.

That summit pitch is loose and nasty, but not horribly steep. This is the "difficult" class 2 part for sure. And yes, loose class 2 can be dangerous, especially if you're tired, careless or rushing. But you've been on somewhat similar terrain - the loose steep slope that comprises the crux on Uncompahgre. That Castle summit pitch is a bit longer and I think maybe a bit steeper/looser, but as long as you take your time and choose your steps carefully, it's imminently do-able. Would agree it's not a good peak for most dogs.

[jsf80238]

As long as you stick to the ridge, Castle is easy class 2 until you get to the summit pitch - no harder than half the peaks that you've climbed.

Once you gain the ridge, you only depart very briefly, pretty much immediately after gaining it - as shown in photos 14 and 15. As you bypass those initial towers, keep your eyes focused on finding the gully to ascent to regain the ridge. We made what sounds like the same mistake madmattd described, continuing to follow a sort-of trail around the right. It went, but unpleasantly. Return along the ridge was a piece of cake.

The ledges in photo 16 are mostly relatively solid, block stair-steppy stuff. No real hand-hold climbing required, hence the class 2 rating.

That summit pitch is loose and nasty, but not horribly steep. This is the "difficult" class 2 part for sure. And yes, loose class 2 can be dangerous, especially if you're tired, careless or rushing. But you've been on somewhat similar terrain - the loose steep slope that comprises the crux on Uncompahgre. That Castle summit pitch is a bit longer and I think maybe a bit steeper/looser, but as long as you take your time and choose your steps carefully, it's imminently do-able. Would agree it's not a good peak for most dogs.

Thank you very much for reviewing my past routes, DeTour. That is extremely helpful for this analysis!

[mtree]

But you've been on somewhat similar terrain - the loose steep slope that comprises the crux on Uncompahgre. That Castle summit pitch is a bit longer and I think maybe a bit steeper/looser, but as long as you take your time and choose your steps carefully, it's imminently do-able. Would agree it's not a good peak for most dogs.

Not a bad comparison. Castle definitely looser and longer, not quite as steep, but there are similarities in every other way.

Reminded me of not-so-fun times on Maroon. Of course, I was probably way off trail on that one.