Wetterhorn/Longs a good precursor for the Crestones?

[mnsebourn]

I’d like to do Crestone Peak around the end of June/early July. I’ve had it on my radar for a long time; it’s just never worked out. I’m also considering Crestone Needle.

I am not worried about my fitness. I run marathons, have done Whitney in a day, as well as Longs, Blanca from the bottom of the road, and WH/Unc. as a one-day combo.

I am generally not worried about my capabilities, though I admit, Wetterhorn and Longs are my only real experience with “class 3.”

I am MOST worried about route finding. Longs was fine, since the course is marked, but I got a little frustrated near the top of WH and wound up off route for a few minutes. A minor thing, but those minor things can get serious in a hurry. Sometimes I question my eyes when it comes to identifying the path of least resistance! Being from Arkansas, I only get to climb these things a week out of the year and don’t get much practice.

Anyway. Am I ready for the Crestones—especially Needle? Also, I’ve read one trip report that concerned this, but given my background, how feasible is it to tackle both mountains in a day via standard routes from BH Pass?

Edit: I hope to start at the upper TH, assuming a 4x4 Tundra will make it there.

[cougar]

The Crestone standard routes aren't really harder climbing than Wetterhorn or Longs, just more longer and sustained. Red Gully on Crestone Peak is obvious, just a steep staircase, like a 2000ft version of the Wetterhorn summit pitch, more class 2+ than 3.

The crossover on the Needle is cairned, but can still be confusing. Pictures and description didn't quite match what I saw, a ledge has to be gained from the crack. Harder to find on descent even from summit, that's the hardest route finding, although people seem to prefer east gully. Some of my favorite climbing though, shorter and more fun than red gully.

I did both in a day via standard routes from camp at lake due to threatening weather, which passed as I descended peak It's doable from upper trailhead, but a long day. Frequently done though, if weather is good. Coming down Broken Hand Pass was roughest part. You may look at the cottonwood creek approach. The trail up west side of bhp is excellent and easy to make good time on.

[Mtnman200]

If you've climbed Longs and Wetterhorn, then you can do the Crestones. Don't bother with the crossover on the Needle and you won't have routefinding issues. The rock is nice conglomerate, but a helmet is advised on both Crestones. Finally, your Tundra certainly can make it to the 4WD trailhead. Happy climbing!

[Jorts]

Are you thinking about doing the traverse?

If so, you will not have seen the needle standard route on the descent. Just go out as far as you can east, then take that gully down. It makes the route finding more straightforward. And the down climb isn't overly difficult, just take your time.

If you do opt for the crossover, and you pick the wrong gully or miss the crossover, just don't be shy about reversing course and re-ascending if it feels wrong and more difficult than 3rd-4th cl.

[mnsebourn]

Thanks for all the replies. I haven’t considered traversing between the two summits; it seems a little above my climbing pay grade. I would/will change my mind about this if I end up climbing with somebody who could help guide me.

Assuming I don’t take the traverse and stick to the standard routes, I will definitely consider staying in the first gully and avoiding the crossover on Crestone Needle.

[daway8]

Agreed, you should be fine. Download the 14ers app if you haven't already so you can have the route photos downloaded on your phone - that'll help with navigation. I always use GPS as well and if you do the crossover take a few pictures as you're coming in and out of it to serve as a reference (I haven't tried the East gully yet - I believe it's harder climbing but reportedly very solid, like most of the Crestones - I may try that route next time I'm down there).

Both in one day via the standard routes is a VERY long day. I pulled it off but felt it was rather brutal that way. The traverse would for sure be a step up from what you've done.

[Alpinefroggy]

Thanks for all the replies. I haven’t considered traversing between the two summits; it seems a little above my climbing pay grade. I would/will change my mind about this if I end up climbing with somebody who could help guide me.

Assuming I don’t take the traverse and stick to the standard routes, I will definitely consider staying in the first fully and avoiding the crossover on Crestone Needle.

Just stick to the east gully. I did it and it was about as straight forward as you could ever get, just get in it and ride it out. No route finding issues for me. And I did it solo after kelso, Longs and sawtooth.

The peak isn't at all harder than Longs Peak. The red gully is loose af and I was annoyed by that more than the scrambling.

[nmjameswilson]

I have a Tundra and have drove to the 4X4 TH two times with no issues.

Crestone Peak is fairly easy but it is long with having to go over the Pass/down it/then back up it/then back down it. I took a break at the pass after Peak before I did Needle and it really helped recharge me.

Needle is more involved but not hard other than route finding for some. I did not find Needle to be all that bad but it is for sure more involved than Wetterhorn. Just have a route downloaded to your phone and have photos of the route with you on your phone from this site and you should be fine.

[Camden7]

It has been a while since I have done some of these but here are my thoughts:

In terms of climbing difficulty and exposure, I would rank them like this:
Wetterhorn
Crestone Needle
Longs
Crestone Peak

I personally think Crestone peak is class 2+ and should be considered a walk up. Crestone needle is more serious, at class 3 following the crossover route, and class 3+/4- but easier route finding if you stay right. Wetterhorn has harder scrambling than either, and if you were comfy there then you will be fine on the Crestones. Both in a day from the trailhead without the traverse is long, probably a couple hours longer than Longs Peak?

I think that you should be good. Good luck out there and have a great time, the Sangres are just incredible!

[two lunches]

Edit: I hope to start at the upper TH, assuming a 4x4 Tundra will make it there.

i was SHOCKED when i arrived at the upper lot in my 4runner. the whole drive i had been waiting for something resembling an obstacle and never found it. tundra will do great--

[Jorts]

I hope to start at the upper TH, assuming a 4x4 Tundra will make it there.

Guess I'm the divergent opinion on this one. Your Tundra will make it but one section was kind of unsettling. Seemed the road had recently and significantly degraded in this one particular spot. I drove many of the shitty 14er dirt roads last summer and the crux on this one was up there with the worst of them.

[Ptglhs]

I'd say Needle is harder than Wetterhorn which is harder than Longs which is harder than Crestone Peak. The exposure on Longs can be dramatic though. Route finding above the lake on Peak is negligible, trail -> red gully -> obvious ledges to summit. Needle can be tricky. I did the crossover so I can't speak to easy of staying in East gully. Broken Hand pass was harder than anything on the Peak, so I'll also recommend going from Cottonwood Creek. It's a beautiful hike and the lake is a great place to camp (just pack out your paper and bury your poop please)