Afaik based on reports here, he cleaned up old anchor mess and put new bolt instead.
Photo above depicts lioness in tall grass drinking weizen and meditating about meaning of life, before it eats you.
Afaik based on reports here, he cleaned up old anchor mess and put new bolt instead.
That's my recollection as well. I know bolting can be controversial, esp for a trad line, but he just replaced an existing bolt. My distinct recollection is that the old bolt was, well, old (maybe a Rawl "buttonhead" or Star Dryvyn) and showing its age. It also was a summit anchor/rap bolt, not on the climb itself. He merely replaced it and cleaned up some old sling tat.
I miss you too. I haven't moved on to other things, just not posting a lot and mostly staying away from 14ers. I don't like pulling into a trailhead with 257 of my closest friends. I have two daughters now and they love hiking the high peaks of CO. Just need to work them up to the long hikes. About 5 miles RT and 1500-2000 vert is about their limit. I will be out there a lot more this summer as we are preparing for a trip to Kili in October.
I'm hoping to maybe do the Spire this summer. Most likely as an aid climb. Do you have any beta on this bolt Justiner? I assume it's at the top for a rap?
It looks like a fun climb.... if I was still in my 30ies. At 61, that could be difficult to accomplish.davebobk47 wrote: ↑Wed Jul 30, 2008 12:22 pm What's the width on that crack? Good size for a hand jam? That would be a fun climb.
Glad to hear something nice being said about Tallgrass on this forum. Especially, from a respected 14'er member like justiner. It's refreshing for this site.
Yeah, it's at the top anchor to rap off of. I wanna say there was a small, older bolt that was removed and a newer one put in its place. There's some fixed gear in there as well. I'm sure it's fine for rapping off of. As an aid climb, it would go totally clean. If you can get a list of the exact sizes you needed, I bet you could bring a very minimal kit with you, so you don't have to hump up a whole big wall kit. The crack looks really bomber, so you could probably aid solo it with a lot of confidence. Sorry I don't have those sizes. I'd be interested in doing the crack as a free climb, if we can do it sub-24 If it's IC grades, it's not out of the realm of mediocre climber abilities.