Animas Mountain Route?

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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Matt Lemke
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Re: Animas Mountain Route?

Post by Matt Lemke »

Well, when you split the tent, split the climbing gear, and split the food you aren't really carrying that much compared to if you had to carry everything yourself.

I'll look into the whole traverse as well...

I have lots of cross country hiking experience and my navigational skills are superb. I move pretty quickly as well.
My friend who will be joining me is very good at planning a menu for long treks...something I severely lack. He will also likely lead most of the pitches when we rope up.

I however will be the energizer bunny and the navigator of the pair and am capable of carrying much more. Together we should make a great team.

I know SarahT and her climbing party have done treks much more ambitious than this one so I'm not too worried.

I'm dying of excitement though!
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Re: Animas Mountain Route?

Post by d_baker »

Sarah and Dominic were primarily in one drainage 1/2 their peaks, another drainage for the rest over a period of 8 days, thus their high success rate with 17 peaks that connect easily.
You're talking of several drainages/saddles with heavy packs to travel over. That's probably why rijaca and myself wonder how you're going to pull it out.
I don't know why I doubt all you new young guys on here though....you all have far more enthusiasm than me I guess.
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rijaca
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Re: Animas Mountain Route?

Post by rijaca »

Matt,

Like Jed, I don't doubt that you're strong and fast, and will be able to navigate your way (and like to brag about it too). Based on my experiences in the Grenadiers and Needles, I'm curious how you plan to climb all those peaks in ten days. Your planned routes all look feasible. Please post your planned itinerary.

And what about weather and snow conditions? Might need an axe.
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Re: Animas Mountain Route?

Post by rijaca »

d_baker wrote: That's probably why rijaca and myself wonder how you're going to pull it out.
I don't know why I doubt all you new young guys on here though....you all have far more enthusiasm than me I guess.
We're just jealous. :x
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Re: Animas Mountain Route?

Post by d_baker »

rijaca wrote:
d_baker wrote: That's probably why rijaca and myself wonder how you're going to pull it out.
I don't know why I doubt all you new young guys on here though....you all have far more enthusiasm than me I guess.
We're just jealous. :x
Yeah, maybe. Or, we're smarter (not to abuse our bodies like that).
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Re: Animas Mountain Route?

Post by Matt Lemke »

So I will tell you my itinerary...
June 24th: Start Weminuche Backpacking trip - Take train from Silverton to Elk Park and Pack to Vestal Lake
June 25th: Climb Arrow
June 26th: Climb Vestal Peak - Pack up to Unnamed Lake below Trinities
June 27th: Pack up to the Vestal-Trinity Creeks Pass - Climb East Trinity and Main Trinity, descend and pass by Lake Silex and camp at lake below Peaks 8 and 9
June 28th: Climb Silex and the Guardian and traverse to Leviathan Pass, Climb Levithan Peak camp just to the south
June 29th: Jagged Mountain, over Jagged Pass, climb Peak 6 and camp below Jagged Pass at 10,800 feet
June 30th: Over No-Name/Ruby Pass and to 11,600 in Ruby Basin climb Monitor, and Animas Mountains and camp at 11,600
July 1st: Climb Pigeon and Turret, retrace steps over No-Name/Ruby pass and head over Twin Thumbs Pass - Camp in Chicago Basin
July 2st: Climb Eolus, North Eolus and Windom, return to same camp spot in Chicago Basin
July 3nd: Climb Sunlight early, descend to trail and climb Jupiter, camp along trail somewhere near Needleton
July 4rd: Continue down the trail to Needleton and hit the train back to Silverton

I take thunderstorms very seriously. I am very good at reading the clouds and know when the clouds are building into thunderstorms. I have a decent amount of meteorological knowledge. Since I have the entire summer off I have days to work with if it takes a little longer than planned but ideally we would be on our way to the Beartooths in Montana by the 5th of July so I can start my Montana 12ers project
We will also have ice axes and crampons/spikes to aid with snow.

After I knock these peaks off, I will then focus more on specific areas in the Weminuche like Sarah and Dominic did on my subsequent return treks.
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Re: Animas Mountain Route?

Post by rijaca »

Comments:

Day 1: I'd start at Molas Pass, otherwise you won't start hiking until 2-3pm. The trail up Vestal Creek is steep, and is not maintained (lots of deadfall).
Days 2-3: Arrow and Vestal could be climbed in one day.
Day 4: Trinities and your backpack will be a very big day!
Day 5: What happened to Storm King? This will be another big day.
Day 6: Big day.
Day 7: Better hope for good weather.
Day 8: A very big day!
Day 9: Have good weather and do Sunlight too.
Day 10: Jupiter and out. There aren't too many camping areas between Chi Basin and Needleton
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Re: Animas Mountain Route?

Post by Matt Lemke »

oops...I forgot Storm King...yeah that one will be done the same day I do the Trinities

I'd like to be able to start at Molas Pass but when I exit at Needleton I'd be stuck walking out to Purgatory or all the way up the tracks back to Elk Park...I guess I could arrange for two cars...one at Purgatory and one at Molas.

So Arrow and Vestal can be climbed in one day that's good to know. I thought those two would take longer.

I can combine those and give me extra time on any other day if I need. If the weather holds for the whole trip I have no doubt I will make the whole trek with ease.
We will be starting early every day but if we do get delayed by weather, as I said I have lots of days :) and if we don't take the train and I have two cars we can afford to get delayed a day or two.
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Re: Animas Mountain Route?

Post by d_baker »

Here, let us plan your trip for you! ;)

Like rijaca said, Vestal & Arrow can be done the same day.
And why move your Vestal Lake camp to unnamed lake below Trinities at all? That's not very far for the effort -- imo -- just to pack it up again the next morning to move again before climbing Trinities (and that would be E Trinity and Trinity Peak).

Leviathan seems like it would combine better with Jagged, and then Pk 6 after Leviathan.

For Chi-Basin, why not do Sunlight & Windom on the same day? And then drop off the S side of the W ridge (at saddle) of Windom and go for Jupiter.
Eolus and N combine together.


Of course, I haven't exactly done any of these suggestions before, so I don't know sh*t.
And, it's your trip!
Just some thoughts out loud I guess.
And according to your profile, you're comfortable w/class 4.
Have you done class 5 climbing before? Being quick & efficient with the rope work will help with your schedule.
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Re: Animas Mountain Route?

Post by Matt Lemke »

I'm currently learning class 5 rope efficiency techniques. My partner is VERY efficient with ropes and rock pro but I am also going to be practicing in the months to come.
I will definitively take your considerations to memory. Who knows...when we get up there we can always change some of the peaks around.

In case you are all interested...I am trying to finish all the Colorado top 100 peaks this year The centennials in the Weminuche are my top priority (hence the long trek through all the drainage's!).
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Re: Animas Mountain Route?

Post by d_baker »

Matt Lemke wrote:In case you are all interested...I am trying to finish all the Colorado top 100 peaks this year The centennials in the Weminuche are my top priority (hence the long trek through all the drainage's!).
Then I would focus on the 8 out of the 20 peaks you have listed that are in the top 100.
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Re: Animas Mountain Route?

Post by Matt Lemke »

I would be willing to forgo Leviathan and Peak 6 if needed...the others though just look so fun!
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