Capitol Peak difficulty

[painless4u2]

Capitol was the most mentally exhausting.
SW Ridge of Little Bear was the most physically exhausting.
Class 4 move on Mt. Wilson was scariest.
And...
Crestone Needle was the most fun.
Bross was the most boring.

[Wish I lived in CO]

Great posts everyone, keep 'em coming. I chickened out at the knife edge 2 years ago, but am determined now to go back (in 2021).

I've never heard much for descriptions past the knife edge, even in trip reports. Useful and encouraging beta. Thanks.

For my own experience the approach is beautiful as expected. K2 I didn't think was too bad - take your time finding the best line as there is a class 3 line if you look for it (going up and over K2).

[SummitChance]

I'll disagree here and say that I don't think any of the difficulties on the keyhole hold a candle to Capitol. Snowmass S Ridge is a much better warmup for Cap IMO

[XterraRob]

What is the toughest, most difficult part of the Capitol Peak standard route? On the guides on this site, it says Class 4 - where is the Class 4? Are there prolonged areas of Class 4? Or just a Class 4 move here and there throughout? Is the knife edge considered class 4? How long is the actual knife edge portion? does it require butt scooting along - or can you walk along the side with decent footing? How far is the actual dropoff off the sides of the knife edge? What makes this considered the most difficult of the standard 14er routes? Is it considerably more difficult and longer than Long's Peak? What is the approach like? I've read the guides and routes on this site, just wanted to get some firsthand opinions from those that have done it. Thanks everyone!

The key is to have route-finding skills to navigate your way down from K2, across the Knife's Edge, and then either around and up to the summit or up to the summit via the ridge direct.

As for firsthand opinions, your best bet is to comb over the trip reports, maybe make yourself a quick minimap for notable obstacles/notes/checkpoints to mark your progress (that's typically what I do for anything challenging).

The exposure is pretty significant (relative to other 14er standard routes) once you begin your downclimb from K2 to the Knife's Edge to the summit and back. I would recommend giving Crestone Needle/Maroon Bells/Pyramid a shot before you do that one.

[Tornadoman]

I'll disagree here and say that I don't think any of the difficulties on the keyhole hold a candle to Capitol. Snowmass S Ridge is a much better warmup for Cap IMO

Agree with this. I felt the S-ridge was like a mini-Capitol and would be an excellent test before Cap.

[PaulVee]

I'll disagree here and say that I don't think any of the difficulties on the keyhole hold a candle to Capitol. Snowmass S Ridge is a much better warmup for Cap IMO

Agree with this. I felt the S-ridge was like a mini-Capitol and would be an excellent test before Cap.

Just wondering if y'all could elaborate a little on the S Ridge comparison (as I was actually considering that one). Is it the loose rocks, sustained and / or technical scrambling, the sustained exposure, overall length / commitment, or all of the above that make is seem like a mini-Capitol?

[CaptainSuburbia]

I'll disagree here and say that I don't think any of the difficulties on the keyhole hold a candle to Capitol. Snowmass S Ridge is a much better warmup for Cap IMO

Agree with this. I felt the S-ridge was like a mini-Capitol and would be an excellent test before Cap.

Just wondering if y'all could elaborate a little on the S Ridge comparison (as I was actually considering that one). Is it the loose rocks, sustained and / or technical scrambling, the sustained exposure, overall length / commitment, or all of the above that make is seem like a mini-Capitol?

I thought the S-Ridge was much easier. 98% is class 3 or less. The approach is much shorter with the whole route being 6 or 7 miles shorter. The rock is much better too, and the exposure is significantly less. You'll likely be the only one on the ridge so rockfall is very minimal. It's definitely a long sustained scramble with a big commitment. Also, you have the choice of descending the much easier (but tedious) west slopes. I did it alone and would not consider that for Capitol. Here's a trip report I put together for S ridge
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... m=tripmine

[angry]

Meh. I went up and down the S-ridge and thought it was solid, nothing difficult. I also didn't think much of cap, not mentally/physically challenged there.

You'll get so many different opinions. What feels difficult to some might not to others. I think my worst day ever mentally and physically was probably on Lackawanna so there's that.

[Tornadoman]

I'll disagree here and say that I don't think any of the difficulties on the keyhole hold a candle to Capitol. Snowmass S Ridge is a much better warmup for Cap IMO

Agree with this. I felt the S-ridge was like a mini-Capitol and would be an excellent test before Cap.

Just wondering if y'all could elaborate a little on the S Ridge comparison (as I was actually considering that one). Is it the loose rocks, sustained and / or technical scrambling, the sustained exposure, overall length / commitment, or all of the above that make is seem like a mini-Capitol?

Ridge on Snowmass S-ridge has reasonable amount of exposure (not as much as Cap). If you leave the ridge (I did at one point) the rock gets a lot crappier (just like Cap- I have heard that ridge route to Cap is nice and solid but haven't tried it. The rock is very similar on the peaks (you can see this visually), it's large blocks and if it came loose watch out. Yes the S-ridge is easier by a fair bit, but I feel that Capitol to the S-Ridge is more similar than say Cap to the Bells/Pyramid that have a very different rock quality imo.

[SummitChance]

I'll disagree here and say that I don't think any of the difficulties on the keyhole hold a candle to Capitol. Snowmass S Ridge is a much better warmup for Cap IMO

Agree with this. I felt the S-ridge was like a mini-Capitol and would be an excellent test before Cap.

Just wondering if y'all could elaborate a little on the S Ridge comparison (as I was actually considering that one). Is it the loose rocks, sustained and / or technical scrambling, the sustained exposure, overall length / commitment, or all of the above that make is seem like a mini-Capitol?

Its the same rock and exposure, but much shorter overall, and with more options to bail if you need. My group never left the ridge proper from K2 to the summit of Cap or for the whole S ridge, so factor that into my calculations. The S ridge had its moments, but it always felt like we had options if we wanted to take the pressure off and skirt some problems. Cap is also intense, but with much more commitment to the route.

[arianna2]

Great questions, helps us since we will hopefully be doing this one this year or next. Wondering how you all would compare the difficulty in route finding after the knife edge. Is it similar to south maroon? Harder, easier?

[justiner]

Great questions, helps us since we will hopefully be doing this one this year or next. Wondering how you all would compare the difficulty in route finding after the knife edge. Is it similar to south maroon? Harder, easier?

Don't take any shortcuts coming back down.