Capitol Peak difficulty

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Flatlander1980
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Capitol Peak difficulty

Post by Flatlander1980 »

What is the toughest, most difficult part of the Capitol Peak standard route? On the guides on this site, it says Class 4 - where is the Class 4? Are there prolonged areas of Class 4? Or just a Class 4 move here and there throughout? Is the knife edge considered class 4? How long is the actual knife edge portion? does it require butt scooting along - or can you walk along the side with decent footing? How far is the actual dropoff off the sides of the knife edge? What makes this considered the most difficult of the standard 14er routes? Is it considerably more difficult and longer than Long's Peak? What is the approach like? I've read the guides and routes on this site, just wanted to get some firsthand opinions from those that have done it. Thanks everyone!
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Scott P
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Re: Capitol Peak difficulty

Post by Scott P »

Flatlander1980 wrote: Thu Apr 23, 2020 1:29 pm What is the toughest, most difficult part of the Capitol Peak standard route?
There are a few places such as K2, the Knife Edge, and a few places on the ridge near the summit that require real scrambling. It's not a good peak to try in bad weather either. I am also assuming that you are speaking of a summer ascent. It is much harder in winter and spring.
On the guides on this site, it says Class 4 - where is the Class 4?


Only a few places.
Are there prolonged areas of Class 4?


No.
Or just a Class 4 move here and there throughout?
Yes.
Is the knife edge considered class 4?
Debatable. I'd say its more like class 3, but it is exposed.
How long is the actual knife edge portion?


I don're remember, but it isn't that long.
does it require butt scooting along - or can you walk along the side with decent footing?


Either.
How far is the actual dropoff off the sides of the knife edge?


Far enough that you wouldn't fall off. It isn't vertical on either side, but it is steep enough that you would fall a long way if you fell.
What makes this considered the most difficult of the standard 14er routes?


The scrambling. See above.
Is it considerably more difficult and longer than Long's Peak?


It is longer and better as a two day trip (though some on here will debate that). I don't think it was that much harder than Longs, but I haven't done Longs in a long time.
What is the approach like?


A scenic and easy walk.
I'm old, slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.
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nsaladin
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Re: Capitol Peak difficulty

Post by nsaladin »

Flatlander1980 wrote: Thu Apr 23, 2020 1:29 pm What is the toughest, most difficult part of the Capitol Peak standard route? On the guides on this site, it says Class 4 - where is the Class 4? Are there prolonged areas of Class 4? Or just a Class 4 move here and there throughout? Is the knife edge considered class 4? How long is the actual knife edge portion? does it require butt scooting along - or can you walk along the side with decent footing? How far is the actual dropoff off the sides of the knife edge? What makes this considered the most difficult of the standard 14er routes? Is it considerably more difficult and longer than Long's Peak? What is the approach like? I've read the guides and routes on this site, just wanted to get some firsthand opinions from those that have done it. Thanks everyone!
The face after the knife edge was the sketchiest part in my opinion. The knife edge can be butt scooted or you can use the "edge" as a hand rail and walk on the ledges to the south of the knife edge itself. The actual knife edge is not very long at all, and was one of the easiest parts of the route after you go up/around K2. I think the drop-off to the right and left of the knife edge is probably 500+ feet, but the drop on the face is even more. I think what makes it the most difficult standard route is the long approach for daytrippers and having to be on your A-game for a few hours after K2 to the summit and back. I did Longs peak as my 15th or so 14er Capitol as my 57th. I think I made the right decision by keeping it as second to last. During my ascent, there were several large rockfall events on the face. The face is super loose and a fall would most likely result in death.
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Re: Capitol Peak difficulty

Post by Tornadoman »

nsaladin wrote: Thu Apr 23, 2020 1:47 pm
Flatlander1980 wrote: Thu Apr 23, 2020 1:29 pm What is the toughest, most difficult part of the Capitol Peak standard route? On the guides on this site, it says Class 4 - where is the Class 4? Are there prolonged areas of Class 4? Or just a Class 4 move here and there throughout? Is the knife edge considered class 4? How long is the actual knife edge portion? does it require butt scooting along - or can you walk along the side with decent footing? How far is the actual dropoff off the sides of the knife edge? What makes this considered the most difficult of the standard 14er routes? Is it considerably more difficult and longer than Long's Peak? What is the approach like? I've read the guides and routes on this site, just wanted to get some firsthand opinions from those that have done it. Thanks everyone!
The face after the knife edge was the sketchiest part in my opinion. The knife edge can be butt scooted or you can use the "edge" as a hand rail and walk on the ledges to the south of the knife edge itself. The actual knife edge is not very long at all, and was one of the easiest parts of the route after you go up/around K2. I think the drop-off to the right and left of the knife edge is probably 500+ feet, but the drop on the face is even more. I think what makes it the most difficult standard route is the long approach for daytrippers and having to be on your A-game for a few hours after K2 to the summit and back. I did Longs peak as my 15th or so 14er Capitol as my 57th. I think I made the right decision by keeping it as second to last. During my ascent, there were several large rockfall events on the face. The face is super loose and a fall would most likely result in death.
Totally agree with this post. The south face traverse was probably the one section of any 14er that really sketched me out. A lot of loose rock and the exposure was severe. Everyone talks about the exposure on the knife edge (not really a big deal, just butt-scoot it) but less is made of the terrain after that where the consequences of a fall are still likely death and the terrain is much more likely to lead to a fall.

I did Capitol as my 49th 14er as a day trip. It is a long day but manageable. There isn't much class 4 on the route, probably a bit coming off K2 depending on your line, and maybe a spot or two after you cross the south face and head back toward the ridge proper. There have been a few deaths recently from people trying to take a shortcut gully down to the lake directly from the summit ridge (instead of recrossing the knife edge). This leads to cliffs, make sure you return via your ascent route!
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daway8
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Re: Capitol Peak difficulty

Post by daway8 »

The knife edge is more challenging from a psychological perspective than a physical perspective. If you have good balance and aren't bothered by heights it's possible to simply walk across it either along the side or with a foot on either side. If however you're afraid of heights/exposure this could be the single most difficult thing you've ever done in your life (if you struggled with the Narrows on Longs then this will make that seem like nothing). So whether it's challenging, horrifying or fun simply depends on how you react to heights/exposure.

I remember looking off either edge and thinking there were potential holds where you might conceivably arrest a fall if you slipped off the knife edge but I don't think I'd want to test that theory since if you didn't very quickly stop your slide you'd be a goner.

Past the knife edge on a busy day you may also have to worry about rockfall so I'd bring a helmet and try to start early to avoid crowds. The approach is very, very long with not much to do but talk with the cows. Not until past the lake do you start getting significant gain in a short span - that's why a lot of folks like to camp near the lake and do the main climb on day 2.
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Re: Capitol Peak difficulty

Post by Mtnman200 »

My wife was somewhat less than ecstatic to see our teenage son walking across the knife edge. Personally, I found it easiest to walk on the ledges and use the knife edge as a handhold.
Randy on Capitol Peak's knife edge.jpg
Randy on Capitol Peak's knife edge.jpg (156.33 KiB) Viewed 2425 times
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Re: Capitol Peak difficulty

Post by Ptglhs »

I thought the most difficult parts of Capitol were either between K2 and the knife's edge and, as others have mentioned, after the edge enroute to the summit, it's a ways after the edge though. IMO Capitol is overhyped. I felt like it could be kept to class 3. There's nothing approaching the difficulty of the chimney on north maroon for example. The hardest move I found was after the knife's edge, and several ledges. You cross and ascend a somewhat lose slope and gain a rib on climbers left, after that you curl back around to the right and have a few more class 3 moves to get to the summit. Gaining the rib was definitely a full body endeavor, though from what I remeber the rock was solid. Group of 4 ranged from 5'6 to 6'7, males amd females in their 20s and 30s and all were able to get up no problems. One of them it was their 3rd 14er.

As others have mentioned: harder than Longs. Falling off the knife's edge to climbers right might be survivable as there are a couple ledges 30 ft down. Falling off to climbers left is easily 300feet. The approach is pretty, more so if you find cows enchanting (my partner did). Camping at the lake is your best option.

If you can handle longs and either pyramid or Eolus you should be fine on Capitol. Biggest takeaways are seriously look at weather when you're on K2 - it will be 4 hours before you return. Go when snow is still on the back side as it makes for a MUCH nicer ascent/descent than talus hopping up to K2 (this was the case in Aug of last year). No shortcuts, no exceptions.
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Re: Capitol Peak difficulty

Post by Conor »

Summit doesn't count if you arrive au cheval.
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Re: Capitol Peak difficulty

Post by Alpine Guy »

It's already been mentioned but what separated Capitol from the others like Longs, for me, is the sustained nature of the exposure. It's a really long way from K2 to summit and back and few places along there that a mistake won't hurt/kill you. The route requires stamina, sustained focus and good weather even more than most 14ers. I haven't done the Bells, Little Bear or Pyramid yet so I may look back some day and yawn at Capitol but I wasn't yawning when I did it.
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Re: Capitol Peak difficulty

Post by mtnkub »

Comparison to Longs: In addition to the sustained nature of exposure and potential for loose rocks, there is the route finding. On Longs the markers on the rock make its standard route much easier that it would be otherwise. On Capitol, you have to be "on" all the time, and you need some good judgement that typically comes only with some experience. (I agree that there is probably not one single required class 4 move on Capitol. But i think that very few people have done it without at least one).
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Re: Capitol Peak difficulty

Post by glenmiz »

Alpine Guy wrote: Thu Apr 23, 2020 5:38 pm It's already been mentioned but what separated Capitol from the others like Longs, for me, is the sustained nature of the exposure. It's a really long way from K2 to summit and back and few places along there that a mistake won't hurt/kill you. The route requires stamina, sustained focus and good weather even more than most 14ers.
THIS^^

Any part, on it's own, isn't that difficult if you have some experience and can deal with exposure. It's putting everything together in one stretch from the time you come off K2 until you re-ascend it hours later that makes this one so difficult. Four of the five deaths in 2017 occurred in this stretch. If you do this as a day trip, consider that you'll be going for 7+ miles before this intensity begins.

I strongly recommend saving this for late in a quest for Colorado's 14ers.
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Re: Capitol Peak difficulty

Post by seano »

nsaladin wrote: Thu Apr 23, 2020 1:47 pm
The face after the knife edge was the sketchiest part in my opinion. The knife edge can be butt scooted or you can use the "edge" as a hand rail and walk on the ledges to the south of the knife edge itself. The actual knife edge is not very long at all, and was one of the easiest parts of the route after you go up/around K2. I think the drop-off to the right and left of the knife edge is probably 500+ feet, but the drop on the face is even more. I think what makes it the most difficult standard route is the long approach for daytrippers and having to be on your A-game for a few hours after K2 to the summit and back. I did Longs peak as my 15th or so 14er Capitol as my 57th. I think I made the right decision by keeping it as second to last. During my ascent, there were several large rockfall events on the face. The face is super loose and a fall would most likely result in death.
It was a long time ago, but this was my impression as well. I think it was 14er #40 or so. The knife edge was underwhelming and no big deal, but the ridge/face from there to the summit was somewhat more serious, as the rock was not great, and you would not want to fall.

The approach is long, but scenic and fast. Overall, Capitol is a bigger project than Longs, but not as treacherous as Little Bear (IMHO), or as many miles as dayhiking Chicago Basin. Maybe save it for later.
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