moderate snow routes coming into shape

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
Forum rules
  • This is a mountaineering forum, so please keep your posts on-topic. Posts do not all have to be related to the 14ers but should at least be mountaineering-related.
  • Personal attacks and confrontational behavior will result in removal from the forum at the discretion of the administrators.
  • Do not use this forum to advertise, sell photos or other products or promote a commercial website.
  • Posts will be removed at the discretion of the site administrator or moderator(s), including: Troll posts, posts pushing political views or religious beliefs, and posts with the purpose of instigating conflict within the forum.
    For more details, please see the Terms of Use you agreed to when joining the forum.
User avatar
Boggy B
Posts: 781
Joined: 10/14/2009
14ers: 58  7 
13ers: 777 76
Trip Reports (40)
 

Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape

Post by Boggy B »

I've had fantastic conditions on the Snake the last week of June. Even in the right month other factors contribute to snow quality. This has been discussed ad nauseam in other threads, but a clear night is going to yield much better conditions regardless of prior day temps than a cloudy night after a warm or sunny day.

It's only too late for snow climbing once the snow is gone.
User avatar
Tornadoman
Posts: 1438
Joined: 7/30/2007
14ers: 58  8 
13ers: 266 35
Trip Reports (12)
 

Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape

Post by Tornadoman »

Scott P wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 2:37 pm
pizza-sandwich wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 11:38 am am i correct reading that april is too early for most routes?

or—like everything in colorado—it depends...
Routes that melt out early such as the Angel of Shavano are good then. In dry years it can already be out of condition in May. Some of the south facing routes such as Lackawanna Couloir are good then as well.

I have had good luck in April with routes such as the north couloir on Castle and Conundrum Couloir. It just depends on conditions.

As mentioned, for steeper routes that are better using front pointing, April can be too early, especially on north facing routes.
The Grand on Aetna is probably best in April most year (or early May) it melts out fast.
Climb the mountain so you can see the world, not so the world can see you.
User avatar
aholle88
Posts: 368
Joined: 3/24/2015
14ers: 57  24  26 
13ers: 300 29 3
Trip Reports (1)
 

Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape

Post by aholle88 »

The list is endless for moderate snow climbs here in CO. Most of the snow routes are 35-50 degrees, straight forward snow, no need for rope unless seeking out a mixed climb specifically. Occasionally late season snow conditions can make things feel spicier than usually (I.e. dead dog in early July). Cooper’s book has a good list and lays things out well in terms of when to do the climbs. Monster and Boggy have given some good advise. Basically wait until mid to late May, June, early July if climbing only and not skiing. April tends to be knee deep wallowing which is great for skiing, not so fun going up. Since the pitch and technicality of the climbs are all very similar amongst the popular climbs, some things to look for in where/what to do might be the approach, views, etc. Some of my favorite straight snow climbs or ones that I repeat yearly for various reasons:

Fridge
Dead dog
Lost rat
Bell Cord
Drift NW face
Fletcher NW face
Quandary north col (inset, aesthetic)
Democrat N face (mostly for the ski, but decent climb)
Cristo (repeat for workout, sustained length is longer than most, plus no approach)
Arkansas N col
Sneffels B day chutes
Sayres X rated
Dragon tail
Boxcar on Mt Wilson
Pikes North face and Glen cove area

All of the above have walk off (or at least scramble off) routes which is something to keep in mind when looking at any snow climb, makes it much more enjoyable and less stressful day than having to downclimb the col.
User avatar
Trotter
Posts: 1409
Joined: 6/5/2013
14ers: 58  5 
13ers: 220 2 8
Trip Reports (10)
 

Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape

Post by Trotter »

My snow climbs have all been in May or June.

And if you looking for a very easy warmup snow climb, I enjoyed S gully on Bross.
After climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb. -Nelson Mandela
Whenever I climb I am followed by a dog called Ego. -Nietzsche
pizza-sandwich
Posts: 24
Joined: 2/23/2021
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape

Post by pizza-sandwich »

thanks for all the help everyone. i know the topic gets discussed relentlessly sometime but there was some new info here that’s really helped, especially learning about best times to hit some routes. it’s definitely easier to find a route but way harder to know whether late march or early may is the best window.

we’ll be getting out there as soon as condition allow on some of these awesome suggestions!
User avatar
Cygnus X1
Posts: 274
Joined: 12/18/2016
14ers: 44  1 
13ers: 17
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape

Post by Cygnus X1 »

Recognizing a lot can influence when snow conditions shape up, with the snow and weather we've gotten so far and its SW aspect, when would folks estimate this year's window for the Little Bear Hourglass will be?
User avatar
Barnold41
Posts: 323
Joined: 9/8/2016
14ers: 15 
13ers: 12
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape

Post by Barnold41 »

Cross
User avatar
nsaladin
Posts: 772
Joined: 11/20/2013
14ers: 58  1  5 
13ers: 12 1
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape

Post by nsaladin »

Cygnus X1 wrote: Sat Mar 27, 2021 9:38 pm Recognizing a lot can influence when snow conditions shape up, with the snow and weather we've gotten so far and its SW aspect, when would folks estimate this year's window for the Little Bear Hourglass will be?
Looking fat as of yesterday!
0A17123E-42F4-4077-94BC-E4F9DD532506.jpeg
0A17123E-42F4-4077-94BC-E4F9DD532506.jpeg (218.22 KiB) Viewed 2247 times
User avatar
Cygnus X1
Posts: 274
Joined: 12/18/2016
14ers: 44  1 
13ers: 17
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape

Post by Cygnus X1 »

nsaladin wrote: Mon Mar 29, 2021 3:45 pm
Cygnus X1 wrote: Sat Mar 27, 2021 9:38 pm Recognizing a lot can influence when snow conditions shape up, with the snow and weather we've gotten so far and its SW aspect, when would folks estimate this year's window for the Little Bear Hourglass will be?
Looking fat as of yesterday!
0A17123E-42F4-4077-94BC-E4F9DD532506.jpeg
Sure does! Thanks for the pic.
User avatar
gb
Posts: 989
Joined: 12/12/2006
14ers: 56  54  6 
13ers: 67 54
Trip Reports (26)
 

Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape

Post by gb »

Sangres are above average this year unlike most CO mountains. It will be a good year to get down there.
User avatar
SchralpTheGnar
Posts: 1881
Joined: 2/26/2008
14ers: 51  49  1 
13ers: 38 30
Trip Reports (22)
 

Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape

Post by SchralpTheGnar »

I though 2015 spring was the best year for the Sanger’s, and interestingly that was a below average winter but way above average spring, the grahs just need that heavy snow to stick to the gnar that abounds in that region. It’ll be interesting to see how this spring goes.
Post Reply