moderate snow routes coming into shape
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Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape
I've had fantastic conditions on the Snake the last week of June. Even in the right month other factors contribute to snow quality. This has been discussed ad nauseam in other threads, but a clear night is going to yield much better conditions regardless of prior day temps than a cloudy night after a warm or sunny day.
It's only too late for snow climbing once the snow is gone.
It's only too late for snow climbing once the snow is gone.
- Tornadoman
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Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape
The Grand on Aetna is probably best in April most year (or early May) it melts out fast.Scott P wrote: ↑Tue Mar 16, 2021 2:37 pmRoutes that melt out early such as the Angel of Shavano are good then. In dry years it can already be out of condition in May. Some of the south facing routes such as Lackawanna Couloir are good then as well.pizza-sandwich wrote: ↑Tue Mar 16, 2021 11:38 am am i correct reading that april is too early for most routes?
or—like everything in colorado—it depends...
I have had good luck in April with routes such as the north couloir on Castle and Conundrum Couloir. It just depends on conditions.
As mentioned, for steeper routes that are better using front pointing, April can be too early, especially on north facing routes.
Climb the mountain so you can see the world, not so the world can see you.
Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape
The list is endless for moderate snow climbs here in CO. Most of the snow routes are 35-50 degrees, straight forward snow, no need for rope unless seeking out a mixed climb specifically. Occasionally late season snow conditions can make things feel spicier than usually (I.e. dead dog in early July). Cooper’s book has a good list and lays things out well in terms of when to do the climbs. Monster and Boggy have given some good advise. Basically wait until mid to late May, June, early July if climbing only and not skiing. April tends to be knee deep wallowing which is great for skiing, not so fun going up. Since the pitch and technicality of the climbs are all very similar amongst the popular climbs, some things to look for in where/what to do might be the approach, views, etc. Some of my favorite straight snow climbs or ones that I repeat yearly for various reasons:
Fridge
Dead dog
Lost rat
Bell Cord
Drift NW face
Fletcher NW face
Quandary north col (inset, aesthetic)
Democrat N face (mostly for the ski, but decent climb)
Cristo (repeat for workout, sustained length is longer than most, plus no approach)
Arkansas N col
Sneffels B day chutes
Sayres X rated
Dragon tail
Boxcar on Mt Wilson
Pikes North face and Glen cove area
All of the above have walk off (or at least scramble off) routes which is something to keep in mind when looking at any snow climb, makes it much more enjoyable and less stressful day than having to downclimb the col.
Fridge
Dead dog
Lost rat
Bell Cord
Drift NW face
Fletcher NW face
Quandary north col (inset, aesthetic)
Democrat N face (mostly for the ski, but decent climb)
Cristo (repeat for workout, sustained length is longer than most, plus no approach)
Arkansas N col
Sneffels B day chutes
Sayres X rated
Dragon tail
Boxcar on Mt Wilson
Pikes North face and Glen cove area
All of the above have walk off (or at least scramble off) routes which is something to keep in mind when looking at any snow climb, makes it much more enjoyable and less stressful day than having to downclimb the col.
Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape
My snow climbs have all been in May or June.
And if you looking for a very easy warmup snow climb, I enjoyed S gully on Bross.
And if you looking for a very easy warmup snow climb, I enjoyed S gully on Bross.
After climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb. -Nelson Mandela
Whenever I climb I am followed by a dog called Ego. -Nietzsche
Whenever I climb I am followed by a dog called Ego. -Nietzsche
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Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape
thanks for all the help everyone. i know the topic gets discussed relentlessly sometime but there was some new info here that’s really helped, especially learning about best times to hit some routes. it’s definitely easier to find a route but way harder to know whether late march or early may is the best window.
we’ll be getting out there as soon as condition allow on some of these awesome suggestions!
we’ll be getting out there as soon as condition allow on some of these awesome suggestions!
- Cygnus X1
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Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape
Recognizing a lot can influence when snow conditions shape up, with the snow and weather we've gotten so far and its SW aspect, when would folks estimate this year's window for the Little Bear Hourglass will be?
- Barnold41
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- Cygnus X1
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Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape
Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape
Sangres are above average this year unlike most CO mountains. It will be a good year to get down there.
- SchralpTheGnar
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Re: moderate snow routes coming into shape
I though 2015 spring was the best year for the Sanger’s, and interestingly that was a below average winter but way above average spring, the grahs just need that heavy snow to stick to the gnar that abounds in that region. It’ll be interesting to see how this spring goes.