Crestone Needle/Peak

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greenonion
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak

Post by greenonion »

CaptainSuburbia wrote: Mon May 24, 2021 5:28 pm
greenonion wrote: Mon May 24, 2021 5:19 pm
CaptainSuburbia wrote: Sun May 23, 2021 7:18 pm
Haha maybe too much rugby and hockey in my youth. I've only done the hourglass with snow. SW ridge and West ridge are better routes when the hourglass is dry.
Go Pens! Ahem… do you still plan on going back to LB west ridge direct to up AND down climb that ridge to see if doable-ish??
Go Caps! Yes, I'll be heading up the west ridge very soon. Just waiting for a little more snow to melt...
Do be very careful. Even if you are a Capitals fan :mrgreen:
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak

Post by CaptainSuburbia »

greenonion wrote: Tue May 25, 2021 1:17 pm
CaptainSuburbia wrote: Mon May 24, 2021 5:28 pm
greenonion wrote: Mon May 24, 2021 5:19 pm

Go Pens! Ahem… do you still plan on going back to LB west ridge direct to up AND down climb that ridge to see if doable-ish??
Go Caps! Yes, I'll be heading up the west ridge very soon. Just waiting for a little more snow to melt...
Do be very careful. Even if you are a Capitals fan :mrgreen:
I will for sure! I can't believe Jagr is still playing.
Some day our kids will study Clash lyrics in school.
Nothing drives people crazy like people drive people crazy.
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Bigfoot
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak

Post by Bigfoot »

CaptainSuburbia wrote: Mon May 24, 2021 5:28 pm
greenonion wrote: Mon May 24, 2021 5:19 pm
CaptainSuburbia wrote: Sun May 23, 2021 7:18 pm
Haha maybe too much rugby and hockey in my youth. I've only done the hourglass with snow. SW ridge and West ridge are better routes when the hourglass is dry.
Go Pens! Ahem… do you still plan on going back to LB west ridge direct to up AND down climb that ridge to see if doable-ish??
Go Caps! Yes, I'll be heading up the west ridge very soon. Just waiting for a little more snow to melt...
Maybe its too early still, but I was planning on trying out your West Ridge Variation route as detailed in https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=20799 on Sunday. If successful, I plan on returning that same route as I have no desire to attempt the traverse. And if I can't figure it out, the hourglass is plan B. If you have any further details, I'd appreciate them.
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak

Post by randalmartin »

Hourglass route should be avoided in June in my opinion. Hourglass is good under two conditions, 1] full snow climb (preferred) which is generally between mid April to early May, 2] completely dry (July - September). The hourglass is terrible in late May and the month of June. The icing that occurs in the hourglass makes it an absolute no go for about 6 weeks (including the month of June). I climbed it back on April 25th and it was just about ideal as a snow climb though I can tell you even back then ice was already forming under the snow in parts of the hourglass and based on latest conditions people are reporting it is fully iced.
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak

Post by ladnerkm »

Agreed. That’s why I was planning crestones earlier in season and LB later on. Thanks for the advice.
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak

Post by Msbaker »

mspin99 wrote: Tue May 18, 2021 3:37 pm I was planning on the same trip (both peak and needle in 1 day -- most likely not doing the traverse), but early/mid July, if you have flexibility in moving it back.
Mspin99,

I am in the same boat. I was eyeing up the July 4th weekend as long as this heat wave continues so that everything is mostly dry (and weather is good the weekend of). I was not planning on doing the traverse but would like to get both in one day. If you want to team up, let me know.
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak

Post by supranihilest »

randalmartin wrote: Mon May 31, 2021 7:49 am Hourglass route should be avoided in June in my opinion. Hourglass is good under two conditions, 1] full snow climb (preferred) which is generally between mid April to early May, 2] completely dry (July - September). The hourglass is terrible in late May and the month of June. The icing that occurs in the hourglass makes it an absolute no go for about 6 weeks (including the month of June). I climbed it back on April 25th and it was just about ideal as a snow climb though I can tell you even back then ice was already forming under the snow in parts of the hourglass and based on latest conditions people are reporting it is fully iced.
The southwest ridge is a viable option. The biggest pro to the southwest ridge is that it's much safer than the Hourglass. By this time of year there might be some lingering snow to deal with on the scrambly bits between Mama Bear ("South Little Bear") and the summit but that's better than trying to climb a verglas covered slab like the Hourglass. Probably the biggest drawback is that it must be done in a single push, there's no water or reasonable camp sites on the entire route. Still, having done both, I say the southwest ridge is the superior route.
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak

Post by Msbaker »

ladnerkm wrote: Wed May 19, 2021 7:39 am Marksilas: Yeah, I figure there will still be a snowfield and will have my snow gear.

MSpin99: Was planning to do Little Bear or Capitol mid July if interested
I might be available for LB attempt in mid>late july. Let me know what date you are thinking Ladnerkm.
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak

Post by CaptainSuburbia »

supranihilest wrote: Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:17 pm
randalmartin wrote: Mon May 31, 2021 7:49 am Hourglass route should be avoided in June in my opinion. Hourglass is good under two conditions, 1] full snow climb (preferred) which is generally between mid April to early May, 2] completely dry (July - September). The hourglass is terrible in late May and the month of June. The icing that occurs in the hourglass makes it an absolute no go for about 6 weeks (including the month of June). I climbed it back on April 25th and it was just about ideal as a snow climb though I can tell you even back then ice was already forming under the snow in parts of the hourglass and based on latest conditions people are reporting it is fully iced.
The southwest ridge is a viable option. The biggest pro to the southwest ridge is that it's much safer than the Hourglass. By this time of year there might be some lingering snow to deal with on the scrambly bits between Mama Bear ("South Little Bear") and the summit but that's better than trying to climb a verglas covered slab like the Hourglass. Probably the biggest drawback is that it must be done in a single push, there's no water or reasonable camp sites on the entire route. Still, having done both, I say the southwest ridge is the superior route.
+1
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak

Post by mspin99 »

Msbaker wrote: Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:09 pm
mspin99 wrote: Tue May 18, 2021 3:37 pm I was planning on the same trip (both peak and needle in 1 day -- most likely not doing the traverse), but early/mid July, if you have flexibility in moving it back.
Mspin99,

I am in the same boat. I was eyeing up the July 4th weekend as long as this heat wave continues so that everything is mostly dry (and weather is good the weekend of). I was not planning on doing the traverse but would like to get both in one day. If you want to team up, let me know.
Msbaker,

I was originally planning on camping at Colony Lake the night before. Can potentially swing 7/2-7/3, but 7/16-7/18 timeframe may be more realistic for me.

Let me know,
Mark
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak

Post by Will_E »

CaptainSuburbia wrote: Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:39 pm
supranihilest wrote: Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:17 pm
randalmartin wrote: Mon May 31, 2021 7:49 am Hourglass route should be avoided in June in my opinion. Hourglass is good under two conditions, 1] full snow climb (preferred) which is generally between mid April to early May, 2] completely dry (July - September). The hourglass is terrible in late May and the month of June. The icing that occurs in the hourglass makes it an absolute no go for about 6 weeks (including the month of June). I climbed it back on April 25th and it was just about ideal as a snow climb though I can tell you even back then ice was already forming under the snow in parts of the hourglass and based on latest conditions people are reporting it is fully iced.
The southwest ridge is a viable option. The biggest pro to the southwest ridge is that it's much safer than the Hourglass. By this time of year there might be some lingering snow to deal with on the scrambly bits between Mama Bear ("South Little Bear") and the summit but that's better than trying to climb a verglas covered slab like the Hourglass. Probably the biggest drawback is that it must be done in a single push, there's no water or reasonable camp sites on the entire route. Still, having done both, I say the southwest ridge is the superior route.
+1
*only* +1?!?!
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak

Post by kyrawhitworth »

Hi all,
Husband and I looking to do the traverse 7/17-7/18. Looks like from peak conditions there's some considerable snow still on the route. Will check peak conditions closer to in hopes that some of that melts off but we'll bring the axes if we must. The airy class 4 crux wall up the needle is giving me some doubts as I don't have true climbing experience (just 14er experience). We did the needle standard route about three years ago but have not done peak. We were thinking of bringing a rope/harness/etc and having my husband climb up and rope me in from the belay station on the crux wall and then I'd climb up. Am I overthinking and scaring myself needlessly or is this a good option? (We had a guide for the Bells traverse and I was very glad to be roped in for that as I had one small slip on a near vertical section where I had to put all of my weight on the rope.) With the snow, descending down the peak sounds pretty dicey in spots.

Any tips appreciated!
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