How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

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meltedavocado
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How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

Post by meltedavocado »

Sorry for the 1000th post about Capitol (I'm sure). I'm trying to work my way up, and I've read a bunch of reports, watched all the videos and tried to prep myself. I know only I can decide if I'm ready, but feel free to weigh in!

Some of the Class 3 stuff I've done:
Crestone Peak + Needle (separately)
Longs Peak
Kit Carson
Kelso Ridge
El Diente-Wilson traverse (from Kilpacker)

I've done all of these solo except the traverse. I'm pretty comfortable with route finding and working on building up my exposure tolerance. None of these really felt that exposed to me, except a few moves of the traverse, and for some reason, the top of Kit Carson and Crestone Peak. What else do you suggest I tackle in prep? Should I do other Elk peaks first?

Thanks for any and all opinions!
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MichelleLW
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Re: How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

Post by MichelleLW »

Interesting that you didn't feel the El D - Mt. W traverse was exposed, but that the top of Crestone Peak and Kit Carson were! I recently did the El Diente - Mt. Wilson traverse followed by Capitol the following weekend and felt more exposed on the traverse than I ever did on Capitol. The high exposure section on Capitol (knife edge) is at least quite straightforward, and in the worst case, very scootable. While the exposed moves on El D - Mt. W are easy, you do have to maneuver a bit from rock to rock with major drop offs on either side. It just felt more awkward to me. That said, my friend had the opposite experience, so ymmv.

After the knife edge, route finding was definitely the key. There is exposure, but there was almost always something to hang on to and keep 3 points of contact (although certainly with the caveat of being exceedingly careful about loose rock), which for me is way more comfortable. I do think It was helpful that I had also climbed Pyramid, and more recently the Bells; although the rock itself is different, you do encounter ledge-y climbing and gullies on both, along with the ever-present loose rock. I would say it might be worth doing one of those peaks first to get used to that kind of climbing, as it does feel very different than the peaks you listed. But if you were fine on the El D - Mt. W traverse, I think you'll likely be OK on Capitol.
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Re: How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

Post by zdero1 »

I’m afraid Of heights, but the exposure didn’t really get me on Capitol. I was too focused on my hands and feet on the knife edge to really worry about the exposure. It seems like you’re ready for it. The rock is incredibly solid. Download a gps app like Gaia, upload the route, stay on route, and enjoy this classic peak!
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JQDivide
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Re: How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

Post by JQDivide »

K2 isn't as hard as I expected. Can almost keep it C3.
The Knife Edge has such solid rock, though a lot of exposure, it's not that bad. And I don't like exposure.
But yes, do an Elk peak or two just to understand how loose parts of Capitol can be, get a feel for the ledges and gullies.

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Re: How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

Post by Aphelion »

You should be fine exposure-wise. Capitol has some very loose rock on either end of the knife, that's likely going to be the only thing to worry about.
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dpage
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Re: How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

Post by dpage »

I used Static Peak from Colorado State Forest SP in preparation for Cap. It is less commiting time wise but still let's you build confidence for the knife edge.
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Re: How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

Post by randalmartin »

The small knife edge on Kelso Ridge is not too different than Capitol knife edge, which is to say, not really a problem. I found the single most edgy part of Capitol to be the initial downclimb to get around K2 on the way up.
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Re: How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

Post by ltlFish99 »

+1 On all of the above comments.
I agree that Kelso is nice practice, with a fun, fun ridge and a little exposed.
I also thought the downclimb from k2 was a touch uncomfortable and concerned me a more than the knife edge.
I thought the knife was fine as the rock is very solid, and if one desired, can cross it on climbers left using the knife as a handrail of sorts.
Above the knife, the loose nature of the rock provides more than enough reason to be very careful.

I have also read that the ridge route on Lindsey is good preparation for harder climbs.
To be completely honest, I will say that my Capitol experience was just wonderful.
Probably because I was much younger, it was my 2nd 14er, my first summer hiking, and I was simply very excited to be there.
Everything was new, fun, and more fun.
Enjoy.
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Re: How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

Post by cougar »

I found the moves around Mt Wilson summit from the El Diente traverse to be harder and somewhat more exposed than anything on Capitol. Although the wider view pictures seem to show big drop offs, when you're on the ridge and knife edge, it's not a sheer vertical drop off. Still a no fall zone and careful movements are needed, just doesn't look as airy up close. Some moves on the k2 side of the knife edge are also attention getting.

Static Peak would be a good primer, it's more exposed but easier scrambling. Pacific west ridge too. But the Eld Wilson traverse should have you ready. Also didn't think the k2 downclimb was that hard, followed some deep cracks in solid rock angling down to the right and ridge, and it was pretty short.
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Re: How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

Post by daway8 »

I'd say you're probably already good to go based on what you've described.

Don't pay any attention whatsoever to Go-Pro videos of the Knife Edge - they exaggerate the angles to the point of absurdity - sure it's steep and exposed and a no-fall zone but it's nowhere near as extreme as to Go-Pro's make it look.

And, yes, there is some route finding and loose rock to deal with after the Knife Edge which you may find more of an issue than the Knife Edge itself.
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Re: How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

Post by JacerJack »

You might find my Capitol trip report useful: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... m=tripmine

Scroll to the bottom for an analysis on the exposure specifically.

Based on what you've done already, I would think you should be able to handle the exposure on Capitol. For me, it was helpful to have a flawless weather window to remove the pressure and allow me to focus exclusively on the next move in front of me. Enjoy!
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Re: How to prep for Captiol's exposure?

Post by nyker »

In addition to all the comments above, I'd make sure your aerobic fitness is rock solid. Getting up there and not being in your best shape cardio wise, can accelerate any queezy stomach issues, AMS or AMS-like symptoms which could wreak havoc on a person in more challenging terrain.
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