Favorite Route on Little Bear

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NatDog
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Favorite Route on Little Bear

Post by NatDog »

For those who have hiked Little Bear from multiple routes, which is your favorite?

My hiking partner and I are headed up there soon and will ascend LB before traversing over to Blanca and Ellingwood. We are considering:

1. NW Face
2. W Ridge direct

We have researched both options and they seem fun and within our comfort level. The biggest factors for us would be fun scrambling and rock quality. It looks like the NW face never exceeds C4 on the easiest route but rock quality may be suspect. The W Ridge direct looks to have maybe a few 5.easy moves but on mostly solid rock. Anyone have a preference for one of these over the other?
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Wentzl
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Re: Favorite Route on Little Bear

Post by Wentzl »

Oh Oh. Hey pick me! I know this one!

https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=21384

W Ridge direct is the most fun.

North Face is the most dramatic.

And I totally agree with "tortilla" who suggested in a recent condition report that the best way down is via Blanca!
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NatDog
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Re: Favorite Route on Little Bear

Post by NatDog »

Wentzl wrote: Tue Sep 21, 2021 5:06 pm Oh Oh. Hey pick me! I know this one!

https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=21384

W Ridge direct is the most fun.

North Face is the most dramatic.

And I totally agree with "tortilla" who suggested in a recent condition report that the best way down is via Blanca!
Thanks! I wish I had already seen your trip report as it basically answers my question. By the way, your report on the NW Face is my primary source of info for that route, so I'm glad to have two trip reports from the same author now comparing the two.
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Re: Favorite Route on Little Bear

Post by CaptainSuburbia »

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Wentzl
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Re: Favorite Route on Little Bear

Post by Wentzl »

CaptainSuburbia, just when I was feeling an affinity.

SW Ridge is EASIEST, but not the most fun.

Also perhaps "best" if your vehicle can not get you past 10,800'.
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Re: Favorite Route on Little Bear

Post by CaptainSuburbia »

Wentzl wrote: Tue Sep 21, 2021 5:42 pm CaptainSuburbia, just when I was feeling an affinity.

SW Ridge is EASIEST, but not the most fun.

Also perhaps "best" if your vehicle can not get you past 10,800'.
I wasn't factoring in difficulty, but if you do SLB to LB direct and not the ledges it's probably more difficult than the hourglass.

After beating up my truck once again this past weekend getting to 10,000 I think the bushwack is preferable to driving that road.

I would like to try out your west ridge direct route instead of my variation. Just not sure about the class 5 moves.

But what could be more fun than this?
Screenshot_20210921-180012_Instagram.jpg
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Re: Favorite Route on Little Bear

Post by justiner »

I thought the West Ridge Direct was fantastic, but it was much harder than the SW Ridge. While on the ridge, I went right onto some hard face moves that led into another chimney, which was certainly heads up. Going left I think was easier, but very exposed (the first chimney was much easier). There's an entranceway to a talus field a little below that point if you go climber's right. I think that's a sneakaround, which could also skip the hourglass.

I think the choice is just where you start, Lake Como Road/Highway, or the lake. If you're at the Lake, try the West Ridge direct.
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Re: Favorite Route on Little Bear

Post by JaredJohnson »

I've only done the northwest face so I'm not an authority, but I have the impression that the northwest face is the most efficient and quickest way to reach the summit from como lake. I'm very curious if those who have done this one along with the standard route and west ridge direct route would agree with that characterization. It matters more to me because I'm slow, so I had to stack the odds on summiting with plenty of time to complete the traverse (:
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Re: Favorite Route on Little Bear

Post by justiner »

I did the West Ridge in part to see if it was a better choice of route than the Hourglass. I found it certainly to be a good route, but it's pretty slow going. I haven't done the Northwest Face, but giving Andrew Hamilton champions it, I think you're right, Jared.
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Re: Favorite Route on Little Bear

Post by tortilla »

I have only climbed the west ridge direct but I would recommend it if you’re comfortable with the traverse. The 5.4 chimney is super easy, just exposed. Most of the ridge is very exposed now that I say that. But if you’re traversing it’s a nice warm up! As Justiner said, if you don’t bail onto the upper hourglass, when you meet the headwall either left or right goes. Having climbed it twice and gone both ways I would recommend going right. Left was sketchy, right was fun.

Be safe and enjoy!

Edit: the rock is fun and there’s always solid holds to use, but loose holds definitely exist. There’s one in particular you’ll likely try to grab with your right hand when topping out on the chimney. Def check everything
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Re: Favorite Route on Little Bear

Post by Wish I lived in CO »

justiner wrote: Tue Sep 21, 2021 7:00 pm I thought the West Ridge Direct was fantastic, but it was much harder than the SW Ridge.
SW Ridge is class 3. Especially if you stay just slightly below the ridge at the more difficult parts.
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Re: Favorite Route on Little Bear

Post by CaptainSuburbia »

justiner wrote: Tue Sep 21, 2021 7:00 pm There's an entranceway to a talus field a little below that point if you go climber's right. I think that's a sneakaround, which could also skip the hourglass.
This is correct. The workaround is by the second chimney pictured here. It's at 13700.
Screenshot_20210922-075955_Photos~2.jpg
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