Capitol Peak

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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bdmtns
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by bdmtns »

Picture from yesterday, no longer summer conditions. More snow is inevitable at some point Fri through the weekend. If you can't bag this plan for your own well being, please take our SAR into account and spare them the potential effort and danger. Image
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aadi_duggal
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by aadi_duggal »

bdmtns wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 11:10 am Picture from yesterday, no longer summer conditions. More snow is inevitable at some point Fri through the weekend. If you can't bag this plan for your own well being, please take our SAR into account and spare them the potential effort and danger. Image
Maybe if all the snow just happened to miraculously avoid the route and it’s just completely dry on wherever my foot steps…🤔
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bdloftin77
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by bdloftin77 »

That would indeed be a miracle!
aadi_duggal
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by aadi_duggal »

Ok, so if anyone has any good backups in mind similar to Capitol with decent conditions, please let me know. I’m eyeing at North Maroon peak and Little Bear peak. Future weather seems ok, but not sure if it’s attainable without crampons.
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cottonmountaineering
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by cottonmountaineering »

Just don't, SAR will be picking up your body if you make an attempt on any of those peaks with your skillset

Come back next summer
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Barnold41
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by Barnold41 »

cottonmountaineering wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 12:24 pm Just don't, SAR will be picking up your body if you make an attempt on any of those peaks with your skillset

Come back next summer
This. Find a walk up and enjoy the views. They are called the "Deadly Bells" for a reason... and Little Bear, from what I've heard and seen in photos, isn't something to try this time of year unless you have experience with that sort of hill and snowy conditions.
Last edited by Barnold41 on Tue Oct 05, 2021 12:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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CaptainSuburbia
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by CaptainSuburbia »

aadi_duggal wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 12:23 pm Ok, so if anyone has any good backups in mind similar to Capitol with decent conditions, please let me know. I’m eyeing at North Maroon peak and Little Bear peak. Future weather seems ok, but not sure if it’s attainable without crampons.
Kelso Ridge to Torreys, Quandary west ridge or Little Bear SW ridge if you must go big.
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Geckser
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by Geckser »

I’m going to disagree with the consensus. From what I’ve seen the sangres remain relatively dry(1-4” on blanca). Additionally Middle Palisade is more difficult than any of the standard Colorado 14er routes. I also don’t think crampons will be of any use this early in the season when all that exists is <6 inches of unconsolidated snow.

I would recommend the crestones, the kit carson group or even the west ridge on Little Bear. These could all bceome much greater endeavors if significant snow falls this weekend but that seems unlikely as of now.
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JacerJack
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by JacerJack »

cottonmountaineering wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 12:24 pm Just don't, SAR will be picking up your body if you make an attempt on any of those peaks with your skillset

Come back next summer
+1
Aphelion
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by Aphelion »

aadi_duggal wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 12:23 pm Ok, so if anyone has any good backups in mind similar to Capitol with decent conditions, please let me know. I’m eyeing at North Maroon peak and Little Bear peak. Future weather seems ok, but not sure if it’s attainable without crampons.
You're not going to find any high points in CO in summer conditions this weekend. It's all going to be some mix of wet/snow/ice. Just picking different peaks that are all at the very limit of your good-weather skillset (and all prone to objective hazard even in good weather) is not smarter. This also isn't something that can be fixed by just possessing spikes/crampons, in case that's the next thought (it's not crampon conditions now, even if you see snow). I don't want to discourage you from climbing anything at all, but if Capitol is beyond your comfort level, don't try stuff that's just as hard but named something else and think that that's going to somehow make it safer. There's a lot of stuff all over the state that should be well within your capabilities that's not just class 4 14ers.
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bdloftin77
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by bdloftin77 »

Geckser wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 1:04 pm I’m going to disagree with the consensus. From what I’ve seen the sangres remain relatively dry(1-4” on blanca). Additionally Middle Palisade is more difficult than any of the standard Colorado 14er routes. I also don’t think crampons will be of any use this early in the season when all that exists is <6 inches of unconsolidated snow.

I would recommend the crestones, the kit carson group or even the west ridge on Little Bear. These could all bceome much greater endeavors if significant snow falls this weekend but that seems unlikely as of now.
The Sangres north of the Sand Dunes do look relatively dry based off NOAA's snow depth map (trace to 2"), and have a much better weather forecast for this weekend. The Blanca area appears to have <4 inches of snow, agreeing with Geckser.

Crestones area (14ers are Challenger, Kit Carson, Crestone Peak, Crestone Needle, Humboldt): https://www.nohrsc.noaa.gov/interactive ... &js=1&uc=0

Blanca area (open 14ers are Blanca, Ellingwood, and Little Bear): https://www.nohrsc.noaa.gov/interactive ... &js=1&uc=0
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Slawson405
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by Slawson405 »

cottonmountaineering wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 12:24 pm Just don't, SAR will be picking up your body if you make an attempt on any of those peaks with your skillset

Come back next summer
:thumbup:
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