Capitol Peak

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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aadi_duggal
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Capitol Peak

Post by aadi_duggal »

This is going to be my first time in Colorado, and I would like to do Capitol peak as a dayhike. I’ve read a lot about it, and it seems like an interesting and fun peak to bag. The issue is that I will be leaving Indiana this Thursday morning, and the weather doesn’t seem too forgiving at the moment. We’re planning on doing a short hike up Gray peak to acclimate Thursday, then head towards Capitol’s trailhead to summit Friday.

If Friday doesn’t work out for some reason (such as weather), the only other window that looks feasible is Sunday. But prior to Sunday, mountain forecast is showing 2.4 inches of snow. I’m not planning on bringing crampons, and I’m just going up in some trail runners. I’m not sure if that’s a lot for the more exposed areas. I guess my question boils down to if you guys think this is a good idea weather wise

Also, I understand this peak is class 4 and meant to taken very seriously. I haven’t done any “real” sustained class 4 peaks before. The only peaks I’ve done are in the Sierras which the locals call them as class 3. I know ratings are arbitrary, but here’s some of the California peaks I’ve done as day hikes:

Mt Whitney via the MR (Class 3)
Middle Palisade (Class 3)
Mt Lyell (Class 3/4?)
Mt Shasta (Class 2)
Turned around on Mt Humphreys ~90 ft below the summit (Class 4?)

If anyone familiar with these california peaks and can give me some reference point on what Capitol would be like, I would really appreciate the insight.
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Barnold41
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by Barnold41 »

There is already snow up there. Weather looks to add more. Runners without some sort of traction might not be the best call...
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Buckie06
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by Buckie06 »

I've been climbing for ten years and free solo 5th class. I would not hike Capitol this weekend with the current conditions and forecast.
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bdloftin77
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by bdloftin77 »

For what it's worth, California class 3 is similar to Colorado class 4.

Looking at the forecasts, I'd be hesitant to recommend Capitol with this weather/conditions to someone whose experience I don't know very well. It can be done for sure, but I'd probably only recommend to experienced climbers with cold weather gear, better shoes than trail runners, and even better who have already done it or who know the route. Unfortunately I'd advise against Capitol with the little I know about you and your experience with these conditions. Others might have different opinions.

Looks like it'll have a wind chill at around 20 degrees on Friday but with gusts around 30 mph (something not favorable even during summer conditions, depending on the climber). Sunday is still a bit far out, but will be colder (wind chill around 10 degrees), as well as having additional snow accumulation to what's already there.

I personally enjoy hiking/climbing in warmer weather and haven't done a whole lot in the winter or in the snow, but I would definitely opt to not go this weekend (especially Friday with the gusts and blowing snow). Sunday would need some warm clothing for sure, and very likely more traction than just trail runners. I'll let others chime in.
Friday
Friday
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Sunday
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Jonathan Deffenbaugh
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by Jonathan Deffenbaugh »

Would reconsider attempting Capitol Peak as a dayclimb since it's already mixed terrain with previous snow that may have turned into ice in areas not exposed to the sun. Given the peaks you've climbed I don't think Capitol Peak is where you want to test your limits this time of year. Would have to say to Capitol Peak's difficulties would run in par with Mt Humphreys, given that I was able to summit it as well in dry conditions. While Mt Humphreys was more solid on the final pitches, with Capitol Peak you may have some big loose rock to consider if you don't stay on route after the Knife Edge Ridge. If you had to turn around on Mt Humphreys, dealing with Capitol Peak under mixed terrain conditions without proper traction (e.g. crampons/ice axe) would make it difficult even more.
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by aadi_duggal »

Jonathan Deffenbaugh wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 10:26 am Would reconsider attempting Capitol Peak as a dayclimb since it's already mixed terrain with previous snow that may have turned into ice in areas not exposed to the sun. Given the peaks you've climbed I don't think Capitol Peak is where you want to test your limits this time of year. Would have to say to Capitol Peak's difficulties would run in par with Mt Humphreys, given that I was able to summit it as well in dry conditions. While Mt Humphreys was more solid on the final pitches, with Capitol Peak you may have some big loose rock to consider if you don't stay on route after the Knife Edge Ridge. If you had to turn around on Mt Humphreys, dealing with Capitol Peak under mixed terrain conditions without proper traction (e.g. crampons/ice axe) would make it difficult even more.
Thanks for the reply. I turned around on Humphreys at the last pitch in the chimney section because I did not feel comfortable to free solo the downclimb, which was pretty much vertical. I’m definitely not attempting Capitol if it presents itself with any snow/ice on the ridge up to the summit.

My biggest concern was the snow turning into ice, making the hike far more treacherous.
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by jfm3 »

A quick look at one of the Aspen webcams shows snow on the upper reaches of Capitol.

https://aspen.roundshot.com/power-of-four/
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by aadi_duggal »

bdloftin77 wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 10:24 am For what it's worth, California class 3 is similar to Colorado class 4.

Looking at the forecasts, I'd be hesitant to recommend Capitol with this weather/conditions to someone whose experience I don't know very well. It can be done for sure, but I'd probably only recommend to experienced climbers with cold weather gear, better shoes than trail runners, and even better who have already done it or who know the route. Unfortunately I'd advise against Capitol with the little I know about you and your experience with these conditions. Others might have different opinions.

Looks like it'll have a wind chill at around 20 degrees on Friday but with gusts around 30 mph (something not favorable even during summer conditions, depending on the climber). Sunday is still a bit far out, but will be colder (wind chill around 10 degrees), as well as having additional snow accumulation to what's already there.

I personally enjoy hiking/climbing in warmer weather and haven't done a whole lot in the winter or in the snow, but I would definitely opt to not go this weekend (especially Friday with the gusts and blowing snow). Sunday would need some warm clothing for sure, and very likely more traction than just trail runners. I'll let others chime in.
Yea that doesn’t look promising. I do want to go up to where the trail ends and where the ridgeline begins on Capitol. Perhaps then it’ll be easier to assess whether this is really within my skill set and if I have the proper gear to do this or not.

I could probably rent out some crampons and still give it a go. But doing loose, mixed climbing on very exposed regions which I don’t know too well is probably just asking for trouble. Maybe if I just keep my fingers crossed that there’s no ice on the ridge section? I’m not sure if anyone can vouch for me for that.
Last edited by aadi_duggal on Tue Oct 05, 2021 3:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by aadi_duggal »

jfm3 wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 10:38 am A quick look at one of the Aspen webcams shows snow on the upper reaches of Capitol.

https://aspen.roundshot.com/power-of-four/
Yea that’s not exactly the light dusting I was hoping for. Has anyone done it recently to see if it’s still attainable as a “summer gear” peak?
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by bdloftin77 »

If you go to the Conditions tab at the top of the webpage, you can see conditions reports that people have posted. Click on the date to see each report. Here's Capitol's:
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/peakstat ... type=14ers
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jfm3
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by jfm3 »

Photos posted in the most recent conditions report show not-insignificant snow above the treeline (Capitol Lake to the top). I very much doubt it is a summer gear peak anymore. As a rough point of comparison, I climbed Wilson Peak yesterday and encountered consistent snow above the treeline to the summit. I wore running shoes, but I also had gaiters, winter clothes, crampons and a short ice axe. I would not have made the summit without all of this gear. Wilson Peak is easier than Capitol and I thought it was hard enough. I don't think you want to attempt Capitol in mixed conditions as your first summit in Colorado.
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aadi_duggal
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Re: Capitol Peak

Post by aadi_duggal »

jfm3 wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 10:55 am Photos posted in the most recent conditions report show not-insignificant snow above the treeline (Capitol Lake to the top). I very much doubt it is a summer gear peak anymore. As a rough point of comparison, I climbed Wilson Peak yesterday and encountered consistent snow above the treeline to the summit. I wore running shoes, but I also had gaiters, winter clothes, crampons and a short ice axe. I would not have made the summit without all of this gear. Wilson Peak is easier than Capitol and I thought it was hard enough. I don't think you want to attempt Capitol in mixed conditions as your first summit in Colorado.
So I told my friend about this. I figured “well maybe if I now just rent out some crampons, hope for the best, maybe there won’t be any ice on the exposed section, etc etc..” I think when I start to play this game of mental gymnastics in trying to downplay the risks so it doesn’t ruin my plans, it always ends badly. I want to think I’m competent enough to know when to avoid something.

Agh! Time to look for other peaks I guess. I’ll still have my eyes on Capitol for the week though. Hopefully someone goes up there and tells me that it goes.
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