8/27/17 - Fatality on Capitol Peak

[kzm5355]

I regards to what shortcut or route people may be attempting which potentially has led to some of the fatalities, I can possibly shed some light on it.

Even though it's been about 5 or 6 years since I climbed Capital, I distinctly remember a section coming down (right before K2), where rather than going up and over K2 (like you do when you ascend), there appears to be a small section to traverse to the north (side towards the lake) and around K2. At the time, there was some snow up there (it was late September), and I was postholing into the snow to get around it. Once I was on that section, my stomach dropped because I think I realized I had made quite a mistake going that way and I'm sure it was real loose under there. I was committed so I continued. Once I was on safer ground, I remember thinking, "holy crap, I wouldn't have gone there again."

Again, not sure if this is exactly the spot because from K2 to the peak is quite gripped but this memory will stick with me forever and anytime I hear about a fatality on Capital, I wonder.

If we're thinking of the same section, you were still on the standard route. The two parties did not return over the knife edge and would have fallen before that point. But, I agree that is one of the most sketchy sections and going back over K2 could be considered.

[BHallDDS]

I regards to what shortcut or route people may be attempting which potentially has led to some of the fatalities, I can possibly shed some light on it.

Even though it's been about 5 or 6 years since I climbed Capital, I distinctly remember a section coming down (right before K2), where rather than going up and over K2 (like you do when you ascend), there appears to be a small section to traverse to the north (side towards the lake) and around K2. At the time, there was some snow up there (it was late September), and I was postholing into the snow to get around it. Once I was on that section, my stomach dropped because I think I realized I had made quite a mistake going that way and I'm sure it was real loose under there. I was committed so I continued. Once I was on safer ground, I remember thinking, "holy crap, I wouldn't have gone there again."

Again, not sure if this is exactly the spot because from K2 to the peak is quite gripped but this memory will stick with me forever and anytime I hear about a fatality on Capital, I wonder.

If we're thinking of the same section, you were still on the standard route. The two parties did not return over the knife edge and would have fallen before that point. But, I agree that is one of the most sketchy sections and going back over K2 could be considered.

Got it, yeah just looked the route on here and that does seem to be part of the standard route. However, I didn't go through that on the way up and I didn't really have any issues ascending. Just seemed WAY sketchier on the way down from what I remember. Certainly fatigue after a long day of hiking/climbing doesn't help decision making.

[lodgling]

There are some rock slabs that do appear from above to completely descend down to Cap lake from the ridge near and before the knife edge (on return). On Jordan's ski route "The Plank," they took two branches of one of these slabs. The ski route ends with a very long rap after a roped traverse. There are other similar slabs closer (on return) to the knife edge. All of the slabs end in a cliff band that blends in from above due to the similar character of the rock slab above and below the cliff band.

[colincool]

I've been trying to get a visual on this.



Not sure how people are ending on the north side of this ridge. It looks very steep in this shot and all the way up from Capitol Lake, if I remember! Where are they getting lost?

[B_2]

I've been trying to get a visual on this.

Not sure how people are ending on the north side of this ridge. It looks very steep in this shot and all the way up from Capitol Lake, if I remember! Where are they getting lost?

Before just outside of this pic, on L there is a ramp or notch leading to the north side. That section was crowded when we were on it and I went to the N side on what looked like a pretty nice ledge to avoid the passing, but it only took me about 30 ft to figure out this was not a good solution and I went back.

[painless4u2]

That would be the southern exposure, toward Pierre Lakes. Here's a screen shot of Google Maps looking at the north side, right at the far side of the knife edge. They likely decended where one of the snow slopes are seen:

Screenshot (3).png (1.22 MiB) Viewed 2733 times

[TallGrass]

I believe it is an attempt to make a straight line from the summit back to the knife edge along a ridge that is more aligned NE rather than drop to the east and scramble around some dirty ledges in what is about a 90 degree counterclockwise corkscrew back to the knife edge

If you're referrin to doing the ridge direct versus the gully/face that is standard, the ridge is a solid viable alternative and the way I went up. I went around K2 both ways and was fine with it.

I was descending a different Elk and thought how it would be tempting to run the gully out to the seemingly near grass, but knew from the approach that it cliffed out amid steep grassy scree ledges. I looked back on it as I hiked out and thought 'good call' to myself

[Wentzl]

Yes. I was referring to Ridge Direct which I think has plenty of land mines waiting to trundle some sorry soul down 1000' to where those last few were recovered. The instability is similar to Snowmass S Ridge where some others recently have met their fate. On these ridges and big sh*t can and will fall out from under your feet. My bet is that this "direct" shortcut from the summit did in most of this year's fatalities on Capitol.

[ifyem]

Experience matters, 'nuff said:

http://www.aspentimes.com/news/man-who- ... en-couple/

[TallGrass]

Yes. I was referring to Ridge Direct which I think has plenty of land mines waiting to trundle some sorry soul down 1000' to where those last few were recovered. The instability is similar to Snowmass S Ridge where some others recently have met their fate.

Um, the S-Ridge saw fatalities? Sure you're not confusing it with the west side of Snowmass? I found both the SR and the RD on Cap' to be pretty solid fun climbing and scrambling, and popular with many. Can't say the same about Cap's face on the standard.

Whichever way, be smart, prepared, and let us learn of your trip from your report, not an article. Bear-free wishes.

[paully]

Experience matters, 'nuff said:

http://www.aspentimes.com/news/man-who- ... en-couple/

oh wow... these are some eye-opening details. It pains me to think that he was basically in over his head and didn't know it. First 14er, improper footwear, 9am start, wearing all cotton... just a young man who had no idea what he was getting into. Heart-breaking.

[onebyone]

I've been trying to get a visual on this.



Not sure how people are ending on the north side of this ridge. It looks very steep in this shot and all the way up from Capitol Lake, if I remember! Where are they getting lost?

I think what is happening is that people see the knife edge followed by K2 and descending the back side of that, which is obviously the opposite way to camp and the main trailhead. They are probably tired and a little fatigued. Then they see the lake straight down which looks like it would be a hell of lot shorter than following the normal route all the way around K2, back up to the saddle, then down to the lake.
Problem is, what looks like manageable, albeit difficult, terrain, actually cliffs out and doesn't go.

In the last few incidents, it seems that people intentionally descended the North face trying to get to the lake. At one point, you have to decide whether to reclaim all the way back to basically the summit of Capitol or push your luck and go for the lake.
I know, I'm a terrible person for "speculating." Shoot me dead.