Deja Vu on Capitol Peak

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rijaca
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Re: Deja Vu on Capitol Peak

Post by rijaca »

Peeps get off route on Class 1/2 terrain as well. Witness the recent rescue on Shavano/Tab....
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stephakett
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Re: Deja Vu on Capitol Peak

Post by stephakett »

yaktoleft13 wrote:1) know yourself
2) know YOUR route
yaktoleft13 wrote:know yourself and whether the route you've selected is within your abilities
+2

i read this where "abilities" = completion, forwards and backwards, before exhaustion
if you need a shortcut, then in my personal opinion, the answer is no. no, it is not within your abilities.

anyway, thank you to all our SAR buddies for bailing us out as-needed. glad this one wasn't a fatality, and i super hope he learned something.
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CORed
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Re: Deja Vu on Capitol Peak

Post by CORed »

Conor wrote:
Sean Nunn wrote:
Buckshot Jake wrote:Still can't believe people just climb this mountain on a whim. I prepared for years before attempting this mountain, researching routes, going on solo climbs, familiarizing myself with mountain terrain. It's always been the same on Capitol though, never fails. Even like six years ago after summiting and approaching the lake some solo climber came up to us at about 1PM and asked if he was on the route for Capitol.

You can literally be holding their hand and they will still walk out into the intersection.
+1. I am at 33 or so on my list now (including Long's and Crestone Needle) and I don't feel like I am anywhere near ready for Capitol.
This is the typical "pay your dues in the sawatch" mentality of the .com. Capitol, while it can be a bit of an endurance challenge, doesn't really pose that big of a technical challenge. Sure, people can get butterflies, especially if they are preparing by just doing more 14ers. Obviously, I think that is a poor way to get over the "class 4 hurdle." Or any hurdle. Many have done it that way, but that doesn't mean it is the only way.

I did Capitol on a whim. I got in my car and started driving. By the time I hit Silverthorne, I decided to head to Capitol. I read roach's description, checked the conditions report "ice axe and crampons mandatory," and day tripped it in my trail runners and hiking poles. When I come across people in the backcountry, a common conversation to have is about the route, it doesn't signify we are lost or in over our heads. I'm not some type of mountaineering phenom, rather a chubby/balding father of 3 who gets limited time in the mountains. But, it just may be possible that a skillset for 14ers can be developed outside of just climbing "class 2" 14ers. I know it has worked well for me. I am jealous of those who get out every weekend (even if it is swatch 14ers) while I'm stuck tiling a bathroom and changing poopy diapers between batches of mortar.
I did a lot of class 3 bouldering and scrambling at various locations in the foothills and mountains long before I ever set foot on a 14er, much of it during childhood and teen years. Getting comfortable moving around on rock, preferably where there isn't a lot of exposure, is probably the best way to prepare for the more difficult peaks. Trying to climb Capitol, or even Longs, if you've never done any kind of class 3 or 4 moves, and with lots of exposure, is not a good idea for most people. I suppose a climbing gym would be another option, but those didn't exist when I was learning in the wild.
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rob runkle
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Re: Deja Vu on Capitol Peak

Post by rob runkle »

AlexeyD wrote:Jeeze, this is getting silly. Going off-route, or even off the intended route, doesn't always lead to accidents and tragedies, in fact oftentimes it's perfectly fine to do so. It does so only when the attempted shortcut leads you into a bad place. Knowing when it's OK to do this and when it isn't is a function of being able to read a topo map, study and memorize the terrain beforehand, and other types of spatial awareness. Things that generally come from spending time in the mountains, as well as just doing your research.
+1
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rob runkle
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Re: Deja Vu on Capitol Peak

Post by rob runkle »

How do first ascents stay on route? :shock:
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dpage
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Re: Deja Vu on Capitol Peak

Post by dpage »

rob runkle wrote:How do first ascents stay on route? :shock:
They see a splitter and say I want to climb that crack and then don't turn the climb into a face climb.
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SchralpTheGnar
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Re: Deja Vu on Capitol Peak

Post by SchralpTheGnar »

capitol was easy when I climbed it in November but I was climbing 5.11 at the time, we also did the full ridge from the Daly saddle to k2 all the way to the summit. I was also doing 50 mile mountain runs with 10,000 vert, which while not anything to brag about is actually something to post about but say it’s not worth bragging about.
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Re: Deja Vu on Capitol Peak

Post by DaveLanders »

To answer Candace's question from earlier in the thread: Yes, there is a ledge on the south side of the knife edge that can be used to bypass the knife edge. I haven't done it myself, but 2 friends did, and reported that it was about 100' vertical below the knife edge. They used this on the return because there was a bad traffic jam on the knife edge, not because they weren't capable of re-doing the knife edge. (I'm not necessarily recommending this to anyone; both of my friends were already experienced when they did it.) I don't know if they had prior beta about the existence of this bypass, or if they found it on their own.
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Re: Deja Vu on Capitol Peak

Post by RyGuy »

DaveLanders wrote:To answer Candace's question from earlier in the thread: Yes, there is a ledge on the south side of the knife edge that can be used to bypass the knife edge. I haven't done it myself, but 2 friends did, and reported that it was about 100' vertical below the knife edge. They used this on the return because there was a bad traffic jam on the knife edge, not because they weren't capable of re-doing the knife edge. (I'm not necessarily recommending this to anyone; both of my friends were already experienced when they did it.) I don't know if they had prior beta about the existence of this bypass, or if they found it on their own.
This sounds like something that is going to lead people into a really bad situation on Capitol. The problem we are having right now is inexperienced people thinking there is another way down. There is one way up and down and there is a reason it's the standard route.
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Re: Deja Vu on Capitol Peak

Post by Candace66 »

DaveLanders wrote:To answer Candace's question from earlier in the thread: Yes, there is a ledge on the south side of the knife edge that can be used to bypass the knife edge. I haven't done it myself, but 2 friends did, and reported that it was about 100' vertical below the knife edge. They used this on the return because there was a bad traffic jam on the knife edge, not because they weren't capable of re-doing the knife edge. (I'm not necessarily recommending this to anyone; both of my friends were already experienced when they did it.) I don't know if they had prior beta about the existence of this bypass, or if they found it on their own.
This sounds exactly like what that fellow described. Thanks.
"One criterion for climbing a peak is that you should gain a vertical height under your own power equal to your peak's rise from its highest connecting saddle with a neighbor peak...Beyond this minimum gain, you are free to gain as much altitude as your peak-bagging conscience requires." - Gerry Roach, "Colorado 14ers" :wink:
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