McHenrys Rescue 8/11/22

[ClimbingFool]

I was rescued off a ledge near McHenrys on 8/11/22 and am providing my story so you can learn from my mistakes and what went well.

For background, I'm from Kansas City, getting close to 50 years old, and have climbed all 14ers except the Blanca group, where I turned around a few weeks ago due to poor conditions. I used to be an athlete, though I've had several surgeries over the years that now limit my running, and I tend to slow down from the altitude once I approach 13k of elevation. I am a strong gym climber, have soloed some 4th and 5th class, and have little issues with exposure. My outdoor roped climbing experience has been focused primarily in local crags plus a few guided alpine adventures. I am not the best route finder. As an actuary, I conduct risk management and analysis of uncertain events. I have a family that strengthens my desire to return at the end of the day. And I am a lay minister with an appreciation of the mystery of the unexplained.

After 2 weeks in Colorado, including several 14ers and hiking to Como Lake, I set out for one more big day by hiking an abbreviated version of Walk in the Park in RMNP, traversing from Flattop to McHenrys and back through Glacier Gorge to my car. Nearly all of this version of the route is class 1 and 2. It is the technical section on McHenrys where I got in trouble.

I started from Bear Lake at 2:20am where there were 11 other cars in the lot though I would not see another person until my rescue. I was gaining 1,200' per hour for the first couple of hours to Flattop and slowed a bit for the last stretch in order to stay on trail in the dark. By 5:30 I arrived at Hallet and was feeling good. I then settled into a comfortable pace and summited Otis at 6:30, Taylor at 8:30, and Powell at 10:00. The forecast indicated a chance of storms at 4:00, and I was cruising, at least compared to my typical conditions.

I was wearing non-sticky Soloman boots and had packed three liters of water, plenty of food, a battery back-up, and the 10 essentials, though I went light on clothes. I had a spare pair of socks and helmet, and I was wearing pants, a long sleeve performance shirt, windbreaker, gloves, and cap. Temperatures were 52 at the start and felt closer to mid 40s at 12k-13k when I was not in direct sunlight. Winds were calm most of the day around 5mph with gusts of 10mph. It was a bluebird day, and I was feeling great.

I put on my helmet for the descent off Powell, which was loose but easy to find. The ledge exit came quicker than expected and was cairned. I debated whether to continue on the ledges all the way to the notch but elected to descend a second, grassy gully to another cairn. From there I saw the notch and headwall to McHenrys. Here, my beta indicated to take the obvious, 300' central gully to the top with 4th class and easy 5th class climbing. I had no rope and no partner, but I was confident (overconfident) from prior climbs. I admitted to myself that the gully seemed steeper than I had hoped and that I had no specific beta of the exact line.

I scouted the route and saw a line up the gully that seemed to go. The initial climbing felt like 4th class and I cautiously ascended. Methodically, I moved up the wall, staying in the climbers-right half of the gully, and quickly entered what felt like easy 5th class terrain. I kept looking up for the next moves and saw possible options. When I was 1/2 to 2/3 up the gully, I didn't like what I saw. The wall became less featured, and the climbing was beginning to challenge me more than I liked. I spied some easier terrain up and towards the right, so I headed that direction even though it was likely off-route. After a few easier moves, I pulled some harder moves to ascend, proud of myself to rely on my gym technique. But soon, I was stuck again. Leaving a small ledge, I used a left-handed under-cling pinch, but found no good options for my feet. I shook out arms for a minute and decided to back-track to the ledge. From there, I saw no good options up or right, and I realized I had pulled through too hard a move sequence to reverse back down. The area had some off-width crack features heading up and a chimney option heading down, and I was uncomfortable with both. For a couple of minutes I assessed the situation, and then I pressed the SOS button on my InReach.

It was just after 11:00, and I hoped a team could be assembled to reach me before the chance of storms. Little did I know it would take 8 hours before I stood on lower ground. The ledge was small but secure, and I had a place for each of my hands if I kept both arms outstretched. When facing in, the left hand was secure on the aforementioned undercling pinch, and the right fit on a small sloping protrusion. I could even turn around carefully to shift the weight on my feet. I fired off a Garmin message to my wife who was in staying in Estes Park, but I didn't want to worry her. The message read "I'm safe but stuck on ledge in McHenry's notch. Contacted SOS. Pls call 911 and send SAR. In trouble when it rains."

Garmin reached out within minutes. An hour later I established communications with the NPS rangers. I cried out, not yet out of fear, but more out of embarrassment of the trouble I was causing others and my mistakes of getting to this place. I also was getting cold since I was shaded from the sun and hadn't been moving for some time. At 1:00 (2 hours on ledge), I was informed that help would arrive in 6 more hours. I was starting to shake from the cold. I let my emotions flow like a river, and I shook in fear and from the cold. I was fine for the moment but understood conditions could change quickly, and they would.

My ledge had about 3 feet of usable surface in length and 8 inches in width. It sloped slightly away from the vertical wall in front and also down to climber's left. It had one small patch of engrained dirt, and lots of lichen. To the best of my ability I scratched off the surface with my boots to make it as grippy as possible. I was scared of my legs tiring and of rain. I then provided a more truthful update to my wife who immediately enlisted our family, friends, and what seemed like the entire facebook community to engage in prayer. No matter your perspectives of faith or higher power, I hope you can understand that I was overcome with the concern and compassion of all who were rooting for me. I did not want to let them down.

At 1:30 (2.5 hours on ledge), I told my wife that I was crying uncontrollably, but at least that activity was keeping me warm. She said she couldn't afford to lose me, and I admitted I just had to stand 6 more hours, but even that thought caused me to break down emotionally. I was practicing pressure breathing, which seemed to help me focus.

At 2:00 (3 hours on ledge) the sun briefly reached me. I also saw clouds forming in the West. They weren't building up yet, but some were turning darker. I received several more messages of support. I was in contact with the rangers throughout this time providing information of my location, personal state, clothing, and supplies. I carefully removed my pack, squeezed it between the wall and me, and retrieved my battery backup to charge my phone, and somehow extracted my space blanket and wrapped it loosely around my torso under my shirt before putting the backpack on again.

Near 3:00 (4 hours on ledge) it started to hail with wet, pea-sized pellets. I attempted to shield the ledge as much as possible, but it hailed two more times, and the outside of my boots and windbreaker were soaked. More troublesome, the ledge was glistening with moisture. Shortly afterwards I started making phone calls to my family, thinking they may be my last. My nephew, who has never responded to any of my texts, sent a short message of support.

At 4:00 (5 hours on ledge), I received word that a helicopter was on the way and a second team was hiking in. I was wet and shivering uncontrollably. I hadn't dare move my feet for an hour because the ledge was so wet, but I tried to rock my weight ever so slightly from one foot to the other. A few times one foot slipped a few inches. The rangers kept telling me I was doing great.

At 4:30 (5.5 hours on ledge) I heard the helicopter. It made several passes above and behind me, but then it trailed away again. I was afraid it couldn't see me since the rocks above me were slightly overhanging, and I was partially covered from a short wall behind me as well. When it came back again, I strengthened my grip of the right hand, and waived my left arm as much as I dared. Only once did I give the briefest of glances backwards, and I could see the helicopter behind me with its open door and a man in army fatigues sitting at the opening. The helicopter hovered for some time. One time I felt it straight above, smelling the gasoline fumes of the engine, and nearly being thrown off the wall by the force of the rotors. It again disappeared.

Near 5:00 (6 hours on ledge) I heard a voice calling my name from above. I yelled back and blew my emergency whistle that I always keep on the strap of my pack.

Around 5:30 (6.5 hours on ledge), one of the rescuers rappelled behind me and attached a harness without my having to lift my feet. When I was clipped in, I still didn't quite have the courage to move out of position. Then I relaxed, and started ascending the rope using jumars. About halfway up, he adjusted the system (I believe we had arrived at an anchor and were transitioning to a second rope, but I was not coherent enough to pay attention). We jumared up the second pitch, and then I scrambled (still on belay) the last part to arrive at the second rescuer a bit after 6:00.

Around 6:30, the helicopter returned and we were hoisted up. At that moment I was flooded with an appreciation for the technical expertise of our military service people from the National Guard as well as the volunteer mountaineers from Rocky Mountain Rescue and the NPS team at RMNP command center. We made the quick flight to Beaver Meadows where I was welcome by a group of approximately 10 stern-faced NPS personnel. I felt I was sent to the principal's office. We drove to park headquarters where the rangers had plenty of detailed questions and fortunately determined I did not act in gross negligence. Contrary to my earlier impression, and consistent with all the communication during the day, the NPS were kind, concerned, and gracious. I am indebted to them in leading this rescue. I am also so thankful to my wife who may not have enlisted boots in the air and on the ground, but enlisted hundreds to pray for my safety.

This was a long account, and I'm sure you can find plenty of mistakes as well as some things that came together to make the rescue possible. Let me know if I can clarify anything in more detail. I was not hurt and am grateful to be alive.

Be safe out there.

Andreas

[Mountainsroam_2012]

That sounds very intense and terrifying for you and your family. I'm glad you survived and made it back to your family. It's understandable to push the limits and get in bad situations on the mountain. What does your future mountain climbing look like now after a near death experience?

[ClimbingFool]

That sounds very intense and terrifying for you and your family. I'm glad you survived and made it back to your family. It's understandable to push the limits and get in bad situations on the mountain. What does your future mountain climbing look like now after a near death experience?

The first few hours when my mind was clear to think, I questioned my objectives with these pursuits. The last few hours I simply focused on hanging on. I decided to give this some time to process before making any decisions. It's possibly I'll leave the last 3 fourteeners orphaned, but it's also possible I'll attempt to finish them next year with a partner. No decisions yet.

[headsizeburrito]

Thanks for the honest and detailed report, I'm glad you weren't hurt. Don't hesitate to seek out professional help down the road if you find yourself struggling.

[JQDivide]

Thank you for sharing.
JQ

[JQDivide]

Thank you for sharing.
JQ

[ClimbingFool]

Thanks for the honest and detailed report, I'm glad you weren't hurt. Don't hesitate to seek out professional help down the road if you find yourself struggling.

I feel surprisingly well, but I may also be burying my emotional reaction. My plan is to seek some counseling to help process the event.

[MKwhite45]

Wow what a story! Thank you for sharing this experience with us and being open about where things went sideways. I’m just glad you made the call you did because the outcome could have been so much worse.
Glad you’re safe and able to reflect back on this.

[desertdog]

I was rescued off a mountain overseas due to a bad case of AMS, HACE and a blood clot. I had to down climb a couple thousand feet to get to a place a helicopter could get to me. It was a harrowing experience. I suffered PTSD for months after. By nature, most of us are arrogant. I think we all think "it can't happen to me", until it does. The good news is these things teach us, make us stronger, and better in the long run.

Way to go in posting this report and dealing with it head on! Glad it worked out for you and you are ok!

[Bombay2Boulder]

Glad you are safe and recovering mentally from this, counselling will absolutely help and I am glad you are taking steps towards it. Wishing you a quick mental healing. Thanks for sharing this.

[Kiefer]

That sounds very intense and terrifying for you and your family. I'm glad you survived and made it back to your family. It's understandable to push the limits and get in bad situations on the mountain. What does your future mountain climbing look like now after a near death experience?

The first few hours when my mind was clear to think, I questioned my objectives with these pursuits. The last few hours I simply focused on hanging on. I decided to give this some time to process before making any decisions. It's possibly I'll leave the last 3 fourteeners orphaned, but it's also possible I'll attempt to finish them next year with a partner. No decisions yet.

Andreas,
Don't EVER feel ashamed about having to call for help. Think about it, SAR calls are getting more frequent these past few years, but with the rise in emergency technology (Garmin, Spot, PLB's), it's an easy connection to draw to the uptick in calls. That's why people carry said devices. What is sad in my opinion, is the stigma that surrounds people who do call. It completely refutes the devices we carry and makes the adventurer less likely to use it. This stigma has been around a long time and I really don't know how we, the collective we, can get rid of it.
DON'T FEEL ASHAMED because as of Friday morning, you weren't on that ledge. And you're back with your family...SAFE. You used the tech for what it was intended for. I imagine if that solo ultra-runner who went missing down here near the Trinites a couple weeks back had a Garmin or In-Reach, the outcome would be different.

This stigma also exists around using a guide for harder climbs/trips. I SIMPLY do not understand why hiring a guide for harder climbs, for objectives where the safety index is low is considered "low-brow." I mean, what's so wrong about wanting a higher degree of safety? On ANY climb? And yet, there's plenty of criticism from people directed to those who hire a guide, who activate their rescue features on PLB's and such. I've seen it on TGR, in local climbing circles (mostly in/around Telluride) and even on here.

You did the right thing Andreas and I whole heartedly thank you for posting about it. It does more good than you realize. I'd be happy to accompany you up the Blanca Group sometime this year if our schedules can mesh. I really have no agenda or schedule save for a few harder tech climbs.

- I've called SAR myself on a late partner who was doing Capitol Peak. I had to stop at the Daly saddle due to some bad leg/calf cramps.
- I've also had SAR called on myself on San Luis in winter due to being vastly late in getting back (even dug a snow cave on that trip due to weather).
Both times I felt it warranted and felt no remorse for either situation.

[Dan_Suitor]

Holy crap, that is a long time standing on that small ledge. It is hard for one to imaging staring possible death in the face. But once you have been through it, it changes you. I remember having an “So this is how I die” moment, and it haunted me for a long time. But time heals all wounds. I’m glad you are safe and were able to share your story with us.