Mountaineering Boots

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timf
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Mountaineering Boots

Post by timf »

Been talking to a couple of people about boots for my trip to Bolivia in June. Both solid climbers several levels or higher then myself and they have recommended G2 SM and Phantom 6000 boots with La Sportiva Spantiks as a consolation. I value their opinions, but now want to open up suggestions a bit more with the confusing myriad of choices available. I need to absorb more information and recommendations.

Uggh but of course those are out of my price range. This trip might very well be my one and only time to see how I fair at 6000m.
If I do such a similar trip again, it would only be to other South American countries, but think Chimborazo, Ampato, Tupungato, Mercedario, etc.
So I likely will never venture higher. So no 7000/8000m peaks for me in this lifetime.

OK got that out of the way.

Would Scarpa Invernos or if I find anything from the old Koflach name (which seems to have disappeared but were highly regarded) work for Andean peaks at 17-22000'?
For this trip though it'll be Pico Austria, Tarija, Acotango, and Parinacota.
I'm thinking more like $450 knowing that after this trip, I might do 2 more over the next 10 years and then stay stateside.

Any other recommendations?
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by curt86iroc »

don't skimp on boots. worst case, there is a pretty good market for used gear and you can resell them afterwards.
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by Monster5 »

For all of the peaks mentioned, I'd probably wear boots on par with LS G5s or Scarpa Phantom Techs, but I run warm and the camps aren't all that high or cold (relatively).
Realistically, you should be able to get new ones in the $500 range with an eye out for deals.

Scarpa Invernos or Koflachs are fine and provide a better safety margin at increased weight. You'll definitely want to fit and heat mold the liners beforehand.
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by Conor »

do you already own mountaineering boots? I haven't climbed bolivia (but it's on the short list). Nearby Peru runs warm, with most people at a nepal grade boot, some less, some more. This leaves you great flexibility since the nepal level boots have great functionality here in Colorado for most people. But, if you already have boots, you can get something like the 40 below overboots. This allows you to have a reasonable boot here in colorado and upgrade for warmth on the higher peaks. https://www.40below.com/products_result ... goryID[]=1

You can always rent as well, but I would rather go down knowing I have a boot that fits well.

My wife wears phantom guides with the k2 overboots. Pic shown with fully auto crampons over the overboots.
20180717_103929 (1).jpg
20180717_103929 (1).jpg (61.63 KiB) Viewed 4419 times
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by timf »

Conor wrote:do you already own mountaineering boots? I haven't climbed bolivia (but it's on the short list). Nearby Peru runs warm, with most people at a nepal grade boot, some less, some more. This leaves you great flexibility since the nepal level boots have great functionality here in Colorado for most people. But, if you already have boots, you can get something like the 40 below overboots. This allows you to have a reasonable boot here in colorado and upgrade for warmth on the higher peaks. https://www.40below.com/products_result ... goryID[]=1

You can always rent as well, but I would rather go down knowing I have a boot that fits well.

My wife wears phantom guides with the k2 overboots. Pic shown with fully auto crampons over the overboots.

20180717_103929 (1).jpg
I don't own already. Renting for almost 2 weeks comes to like $200+ which brings me back to might as well purchase.
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timf
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by timf »

curt86iroc wrote:don't skimp on boots. worst case, there is a pretty good market for used gear and you can resell them afterwards.
And I get that. I'm just thinking a nice Rubicon that does the right job not an Escalade or Range Rover.
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by jscully205 »

Although it's a little out of your said price range, I would definitely consider the La Sportiva G2SM if it fits your foot. It's very warm while being light at the same time. Perfect boot for 6000m peaks. The Scarpa equivalent would be the Scarpa 6000. Double plastic boots are old technology and you don't see many people wearing them anymore. They can be picked up cheap but I wouldn't waste your money on them. Modern 6k boots also have a good resale value. If you complete your climb and decide you're done climbing, sell the boots to re-coup most of your cost.


To justify the initial expense, think of the boots as insurance against frostbite. I would rather buy 800 boots than lose my toes or have higher hospital bill.
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by two lunches »

timf wrote: I'm just thinking a nice Rubicon that does the right job not an Escalade or Range Rover.
just checking in to respectfully say this is a horrible analogy. \:D/

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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by Traveler »

Try some of these boots on. The Scarpas fit very differently than the Sportivas, and sometimes even the same manufacturer will have some boots that fit in different ways. Trying them on will enable you to eliminate those that don't fit from consideration, as well as help you understand how the weight, lacing mechanism, toe box, etc feel on each of these boots.
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by timf »

timf wrote:
curt86iroc wrote:don't skimp on boots. worst case, there is a pretty good market for used gear and you can resell them afterwards.
And I get that. I'm just thinking a nice Rubicon that does the right job not an Escalade or Range Rover.
You know that is a bad analogy as I'd take the Rubicon first!
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by Chicago Transplant »

curt86iroc wrote:don't skimp on boots. worst case, there is a pretty good market for used gear and you can resell them afterwards.
Taking this the other way, what about buying used boots? Depending on your size, Wilderness Sports in Dillon had a pair of Spatniks on their consignment level last time I was there. It was probably either early Jan or late Dec last time I was there but they had been there the previous few times as well, at least since early fall. Forgot the price, but they were about a men's 10 or 10.5 US equivalent if I remember correctly.
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by I Man »

I haven't climbed in Bolivia, but I have in Peru. I would not suggest using a single boot like the Nepals as camping with single boots sucks. Plastic boots should be really cheap (maybe $1-200) and will work fine, they are just old technology.
You should easily be able to find Spatniks used for Cheap since those are also old technology. I have climbed all of my big mountain routes (except 8000m) in Spantiks. They are amazing.
The G2SM is pricey and fancy and totally unnecessary if you are just starting out. I only use Sportiva boots, I have the Trango Cube, Nepal EVO, Spantik and Olympus Mons and I am a huge fan of the company. Scarpa is good from what I hear, if they fit you. The Phantom 6000 is probably your best bet there.
Look for used boots. Get a prodeal. Buy plastics. Lots of options.

EDIT: Reread your post - how do you know you won't do more trips or go higher? Silly to think that before you have even gone. Also, there is a huge difference between 17k and 22k. In general, my opinion is under 6,000m (approx. 20k) = not that serious, above 6,000m/20k = pretty serious. Above 7,000m = VERY serious (but nothing like that this side of the world). Anything you use on this trip should be good for anything this side of the world, except for Alaska.

Have fun. Climb on!
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