Mountaineering Boots

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TomPierce
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by TomPierce »

I agree plastics are old technology. Usually a bit heavier, and a packed-out liner may not be all that warm. But here's an idea: If you're interested in plastics, go on E Bay and get a good shell for a song, then install an Intuition liner. Custom fit and ridiculously warm. I did that with an Asolo 8000 shell (despite the name, not an 8000m boot...just a plastic boot for winter conditions). I installed the Intution liner with a semi-custom footbed, sized for a thick sock. Maybe not as light as the modern boots (and I have some of those too) but damn close. That Intuition liner is really, really light. And man, insanely warm. The liner I put in was a tall one, for ski boots, it goes up half calf. It's the boot I use sometimes with AT skis (it's my ski boot for Silvretta Easy Go bindings, excellent Alaska set-up, fwiw) for winter overnighters. I think I did the whole thing for about $300? Skis way better than a modern fabric boot, but not nearly as good as a heavy, clunky AT boot. But hands down outclimbs any ski boot and takes clip on crampons really well.

I certainly understand the appeal of new boots, but there's some good stuff on E Bay. If you can just replace the liner with something better than stock, worth thinking about.

-Tom
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timf
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by timf »

I Man wrote:Plastic boots should be really cheap (maybe $1-200) and will work fine, they are just old technology.
You should easily be able to find Spatniks used for Cheap since those are also old technology.

EDIT: Reread your post - how do you know you won't do more trips or go higher? Silly to think that before you have even gone!
I can't find them for that cheap and really don't need to go THAT low.
I only say that because family life really makes being gone more then 2-3 weeks impossible. Only trying to be practical.

Thanks for your input!
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LetsGoMets
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by LetsGoMets »

I just sold a pair of Arctis Expe for $160, so they are out there. And functionality wise, they would work on Everest.


I also have a pair of G2s I am very happy with.
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cottonmountaineering
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by cottonmountaineering »

Make sure to get double boots, having liners is key if you are overnighting on a glacier.

Invernos/plastics would be adequate, but they are so clunky, heavy, and uncomfortable compared to modern double boots (scarpa 6000, baruntse, spantik etc). Weight on your feet really makes a huge difference at altitude as well
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Alpine Guy
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by Alpine Guy »

If you're interested in the Koflach, I've got a pair of Degres in good condition I'd sell pretty cheap - my high mountain days are over (never got much past Rainier unfortunately) and those boots are overkill for CO. I keep thinking I'll use them for winter camping but it just never seems to happen. A better walking boot than Infernos - that much I can confirm. Size 9-10 shell.
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pvnisher
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by pvnisher »

I headed over to cold thistle blog to see the latest on boots since I recall the spantik vs baruntse discussion.
Site hadn't been updated in a while, is Dane still running it?
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davebks
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by davebks »

I have Salewa Raven Combi boots and used them in the cascades and colorado. I used the spantiks in nepal and peru. both are awesome. never had blister issues.
but its so specific to your foot. I didnt fit in any of the regular boots that people love.
i have a narrow heel and flatter arch.
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ElFuegoDelaMuerte
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by ElFuegoDelaMuerte »

All of my Peruvian climbing has been done in Kayland Hypertaction (single walled) boots and I've never had an issue, even in glacier camps. But, I run hot and sleep with my boots in my bag so this may not be the norm. However, I do know someone who almost lost some toes to frost bite on Tocllaraju while wearing Scarpa double walled plastics, although I suspect this was because she was sitting too long in shady belays. I now have a pair of Spantiks that I'll be bringing, cause I'm getting older and colder and like my toes.

Found my Spantiks online and saved ~$200. They don't climb vertical ice as well as I'd like, but they're warm and function almost perfectly for splitboarding.
zackrobinson2
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by zackrobinson2 »

pvnisher wrote: Thu Mar 07, 2019 5:57 pm I headed over to cold thistle blog to see the latest on boots since I recall the spantik vs baruntse discussion.
Site hadn't been updated in a while, is Dane still running it?
Unfortunately no. He stopped adding to the site a year or two ago.

OP: if you can figure out what size you are and which boot fits best, just shop around for some slightly used ones. I have bought two pairs of Scarpa Phantom 6000s for around $400 each, and neither had seen more than a few days use. I have seen G2SMs go for similar prices to maybe slightly more.
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davebks
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by davebks »

ElFuegoDelaMuerte wrote: Thu Mar 21, 2019 8:25 am All of my Peruvian climbing has been done in Kayland Hypertaction (single walled) boots and I've never had an issue, even in glacier camps. But, I run hot and sleep with my boots in my bag so this may not be the norm. However, I do know someone who almost lost some toes to frost bite on Tocllaraju while wearing Scarpa double walled plastics, although I suspect this was because she was sitting too long in shady belays. I now have a pair of Spantiks that I'll be bringing, cause I'm getting older and colder and like my toes.

Found my Spantiks online and saved ~$200. They don't climb vertical ice as well as I'd like, but they're warm and function almost perfectly for splitboarding.
I used spantiks on Tocllaraju and they were great. no problems with the hike up, or on the glacier.
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Scott P
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by Scott P »

timf wrote: Fri Mar 01, 2019 9:19 amWould Scarpa Invernos or if I find anything from the old Koflach name (which seems to have disappeared but were highly regarded) work for Andean peaks at 17-22000'? For this trip though it'll be Pico Austria, Tarija, Acotango, and Parinacota.
I'm thinking more like $450 knowing that after this trip, I might do 2 more over the next 10 years and then stay stateside.

Any other recommendations?
I'm going to express a different opinion than others in the post, but I personally I'd recommend not getting plastic mountaineering boots (the boots you mention are plastics) for the climbs you are doing in Peru. Maybe if you are planning on the other peaks you mention (Ecuador volcanoes, etc.).

With the exception of Tarija, those are all desert peaks with no glacier travel. Tarija has a small glacier, but you will only be on it for an hour or two. On all of those climbs, you will be on scree and rock most of the time (unless you get lucky and have good snow conditions) and personally I'm not a fan of plastics on rock and scree climbs. You may have snow on Acotango and Prinacota, depending on conditions, but no glacier travel.

Unless you are doing climbs on a glacier, as mentioned I personally don't like wearing plastics on scree and rock scrambles.

Others may disagree though.

If you still want plastics though, I'd be willing to sell some of mine. I have some unused ones if you are in the 11.5 to 12 size range. I bought them so my brother could go ice climbing with me, but he moved far away before we got the chance, so they never got used.
I'm old, slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.
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timf
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Re: Mountaineering Boots

Post by timf »

So I took alpine guy up on his Koflach and G12 offer. I am going to basically use my winter insulated boots for approaches and for the peaks that appear to be barren but have the Koflachs as the backup. To Scott's point these are desert peaks. So on Pico Austria I'll wear the winter boots, Tarija the Koflachs, and on Acotango and Parinacota I'll start with the winter boots, but have the Koflachs in my pack if needed.
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