Ropes on Sunlight?

[wildlobo71]

Hey guys, I'm making a trip out to the Chicago Basin next week, and am wondering about roping up at the top of Sunlight. I've heard others have tied into eachother up on the summit block. Do most people rope up on the top? If so, are there spots to set anchors on the rock or is it best to just tie in to eachother?

Any tips would be appreciated

NO ROPE

When I was there in 2010 there was a tourist, and his guide, at the top as we approached. The guided was a 5'-4" Texan, working hard to friction cover every inch of the top block to sloped slab with legs, arms and belly... I wish I caught the guide's name, he was Durango local... he was also about 6'-9" and did the entire block to ramp "leap of faith" in one effortless step (and was roped to the little fella). At that point I realized life was truly unfair.

[OldTrad]

by Dave B » Tue Jul 21, 2020 5:55 pm
CaptCO wrote: ↑
LA Sportiva Spires. I ran up and down that block 3 times to help people descend with no issues. Also took the ridge direct which I believe few people do (in the 14er community)
Interesting, what about the bad-ass community, do they do the ridge direct more often?

Your question doesn’t make sense. CaptCO IS the bad-ass community.

In his mind no doubt, or perhaps as a talusmonkey comparison.

[James Dziezynski]

I've helped friends to the summit block before using a 20m rope I have for just such occasions (short, gutsy moves). You can sling the summit block pretty easily and anchor yourself in. Of course, this implies a "leader" that is willing to make the moves without any trouble.

As another user said, if you can't manage a quick anchor set up (or have an experienced friend), a rope can be more trouble than it's worth. The truth is, it's really more of a "mental belay" as the moves are all not hard, it's just got wicked exposure. I think it's the headiest move on any standard 14er route.

I will say the step over the gap (and the hop back) can be tough for the 5'7" and under set. I say that because I'm 5'8" and I have just enough leg reach. Despite all the heroic posts here a short rope can be a help for shorter climbers.

I've told friends that the summit blocks on Bear Peak in Boulder are a good training ground for the Sunlight summit moves. Scramble all around on 'em and get used to angled rock with exposed fall lines.

All that said, I've always made the moves with a deep breath and no ropes. Don't think too much or you might psyche yourself out!

[disentangled]

It’s nice being young and not letting old people get to you

it's even better being old and not letting young people get to you.

[wildlobo71]

It’s nice being young and not letting old people get to you

it's even better being old and not letting young people get to you.

Even better still being older and watching younger people become humble over time.

[Gandalf69]

I did sunlight in boy scouts back in the day. We didn't use any ropes. I'm 30, and I don't let annoying young people get to me or annoying old people get to me either haha oh wait are we talking about young drivers texting and old drivers going slow as s&^% ? Both riding my ass over Hoosier pass in winter?? I guess young and old bother me on the road, I'm not being discriminatory here lol

[nunns]

I would look at the technique more than the shoes. Bring a pair a Air Caldwell's if you want, but I think most trail runners or boots would swear just fine on the summit block. The rock is really grippy up there, just apply the pressure.

I think maybe the person WEARING the shoes/boots would be doing the swearing, if they handle exposure as poorly as I do.

Sean Nunn

[OldTrad]

I would look at the technique more than the shoes. Bring a pair a Air Caldwell's if you want, but I think most trail runners or boots would swear just fine on the summit block. The rock is really grippy up there, just apply the pressure.

I think maybe the person WEARING the shoes/boots would be doing the swearing, if they handle exposure as poorly as I do.

Sean Nunn

Think he meant to say "smear", not "wear". "Smearing" is a rock climbing term for making maximum use of friction between the front section of the sole of the shoe and the rock.

[jscully205]

Sorry, yes definitely meant "smear" and not "swear." Good catch and nice play on the words.