Winter Climbing Progression

Info on gear, conditioning, and preparation for hiking/climbing.
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123tqb
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Winter Climbing Progression

Post by 123tqb »

Lots of my eventual goals involve winter alpine climbing, but at the moment I'm pretty clueless how to "warm up" to some of the bigger routes out there. One of these such goals is a winter ascent of Kiener's, but in my opinion I definitely am not prepared for such a climb. For some background: I've climbed a good range of couloirs in the spring (hardest probably being Dead Dog on Torreys) and am a novice when it comes to summer trad climbing.

I was wondering if you guys have some suggestions for routes to help build some winter alpine skills (more than just couloirs, as I'd like to practice some of the mixed climbing required for stuff in the Longs-Meeker cirque), and additionally if there are more skills I need to acquire before attempting these more serious routes?
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Slawson405
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Re: Winter Climbing Progression

Post by Slawson405 »

Getting you’re AAIRE (At Least 1) cert is probably something you wanna look into if you’re wanting to get more into technical winter climbing. The Frisco/Silverthorne area has some very accessible ice climbs that may interest you. Always people climbing during the in winter and a good way to meet people and learn from them.
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123tqb
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Re: Winter Climbing Progression

Post by 123tqb »

Yep I've got my AIARE I and Avy Rescue! You'd recommend getting into WI to prepare for alpine routes? I've got snow climbing experience but not a ton on ice.
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Dave B
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Re: Winter Climbing Progression

Post by Dave B »

I've not done a ton in winter because, mostly, it's just not very fun. But from what I have done, half the struggle seems to be figuring out your kit, developing a willingness to suffer, and a resilience to cold and wind. Luckily this can be accomplished on just about any peak above 12k during winter.

After that, it's a matter of becoming more comfortable with increasing levels of difficulty, exposure, and commitment.

For example, the following progression would make sense to me for your first winter (i'd recommend avoid mixed routes until you've got confidence with ice... and shitty shitty ice).
1. Kelso Ridge
2. 4th class route up e.g. Spearhead
3. Bancroft East Ridge
4. Cables (especially good to know where the rap stations are for a Kiener's attempt).
5. Kiener's
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nyker
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Re: Winter Climbing Progression

Post by nyker »

123tqb wrote: Sat Oct 09, 2021 9:32 am Lots of my eventual goals involve winter alpine climbing, but at the moment I'm pretty clueless how to "warm up" to some of the bigger routes out there. One of these such goals is a winter ascent of Kiener's, but in my opinion I definitely am not prepared for such a climb. For some background: I've climbed a good range of couloirs in the spring (hardest probably being Dead Dog on Torreys) and am a novice when it comes to summer trad climbing.

I was wondering if you guys have some suggestions for routes to help build some winter alpine skills (more than just couloirs, as I'd like to practice some of the mixed climbing required for stuff in the Longs-Meeker cirque), and additionally if there are more skills I need to acquire before attempting these more serious routes?
A lot of winter mountaineering is having the right gear/clothing but really having the interest and willingness to endure suffering and cold temps.
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Re: Winter Climbing Progression

Post by justiner »

Doing the Notch in late May (so not even winter) was such a huge jump from doing Cables in any day of the year, I would check out something in between. Traversing Broadway was incredibly intense when it's completely choked with snow.

Winter Kieners is def. a "perfect weather window" and, "have your A Game", as well as "light (enough) and fast", or you're going to get benighted getting off Cables, and man: colder places there just aren't on that mountain, save the Diamond itself.

Getting onto Broadway is annoying enough when there's unconsolidated snow from Lambs Slide, retreating would be an absolute nightmare (from the stories I've heard). You'll wanna work on your simulclimbing skillz to traverse Broadway - and even think about what you're going to do if someone falls - it's a real problem to get back on - you may be looking at jugging up the rope. Plenty of gear if you can clean the cracks of snow.

But I do agree, getting real good at finding those rap bolts is a wise thing to do. After Cables, the NW gully is a great route in Winter conditions,

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/1 ... west-gully

or just Kieners in sunny July conditions with stable styrofoam snow that hasn't turned to alpine ice yet is a super good intro to it. There's certainly some route finding to be done that you wouldn't want to waste time faffing about in a Winter onsight.
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jscully205
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Re: Winter Climbing Progression

Post by jscully205 »

I would say say Dave B's assessment on route selection and gradual progression is pretty spot. Bancroft E. ridge especially, is a quality route in the winter and a good first "step up." Some routes i.e the Notch are very condition dependent and you would not want to to climb them out of condition. Usually May-June or in the fall about now, is when it's in.

Learn to ice climb, to mix climb, and be able to traverse ice and snow horizontally in a more forgiving setting before jumping on very committing routes. Practice, practice, practice, at crags until you're confident with your tools. And oh yeah, make sure you have a good partner too.
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Re: Winter Climbing Progression

Post by JQDivide »

One thing I'll toss in here and it's not about technical skills, but just basic winter conditioning...
Get used to longer approaches as roads will be closed. You'll move slower in snow. Heavier gear/packs. These all add up to longer days, dark to dark in winter.
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