Do you too dream of Denali?

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AndrewS
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Re: Do you too dream of Denali?

Post by AndrewS » Tue Dec 22, 2020 5:49 pm

This link is a trip report with some excellent pictures and video of Cassin Ridge from Jeff and Priti Wright: https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic ... -06092018/
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Re: Do you too dream of Denali?

Post by Matt Lemke » Tue Dec 22, 2020 8:13 pm

Jeff and Priti literally have the perfect life together. They did Cerro Torre and poincenot during the last chalten season. They had a total epic getting down poincenot.

They had an amazing year despite covid.
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Re: Do you too dream of Denali?

Post by highpilgrim » Wed Dec 23, 2020 2:24 pm

I've attached an article from National Geographic that has SPECTACULAR IMAGERY, including summit panos from Everest. Very much worth looking at!!

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/maga ... s-feature/
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Re: Do you too dream of Denali?

Post by bergsteigen » Wed Dec 23, 2020 4:49 pm

I’ve wanted to summit Denali since I saw it from my office window in Fairbanks. Was one of the first mountains I dreamed about up there. I’d like to ski it, but that would be highly contingent on the teammates involved. I’ve already learned the lesson while living up there about a bad team ruining a trip. The Alaska Alpine Club was a little too heavy on the military and males when I was a part of it. I have most of the gear and experience (if rusty). Of course, there are tons of other worthy objectives that are on my list, should I get back up there again.
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Re: Do you too dream of Denali?

Post by FireOnTheMountain » Wed Dec 23, 2020 5:04 pm

AndrewS wrote:
Tue Dec 22, 2020 5:49 pm
This link is a trip report with some excellent pictures and video of Cassin Ridge from Jeff and Priti Wright: https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic ... -06092018/
Very cool, thanks for sharing this.

I'm really only interested in rock climbing anymore, but damn, Cassin would still be super sick. Its not a mountain to have a meaningful job though, imho. Way too much potential sitting around doing nothing on PTO. Need to ditch the job for that mountain, again just my opinion and I do know people can get lucky but it seems 2 weeks min is the norm. And thats on the lighter side.
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Re: Do you too dream of Denali?

Post by ChrisinAZ » Thu Dec 24, 2020 7:07 am

While I'm no longer out West, Denali remains a perennial goal, and I'm approaching the point in my life financially and career-wise where I can potentially attain it. Getting in proper shape, getting the gear, and physically and mentally preparing for the trip will take some work, though. My experiences on Mexico's high peaks make me cautiously optimistic that altitude won't be a show stopper for me up there, though there's plenty else on the mountain that's dangerous and could thwart a summit bid...
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Re: Do you too dream of Denali?

Post by I Man » Thu Dec 24, 2020 7:15 am

FireOnTheMountain wrote:
Wed Dec 23, 2020 5:04 pm
AndrewS wrote:
Tue Dec 22, 2020 5:49 pm
This link is a trip report with some excellent pictures and video of Cassin Ridge from Jeff and Priti Wright: https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic ... -06092018/
Very cool, thanks for sharing this.

I'm really only interested in rock climbing anymore, but damn, Cassin would still be super sick. Its not a mountain to have a meaningful job though, imho. Way too much potential sitting around doing nothing on PTO. Need to ditch the job for that mountain, again just my opinion and I do know people can get lucky but it seems 2 weeks min is the norm. And thats on the lighter side.
That was very cool, indeed. I still dream of Cassin, but my slow ass needs a 3-4 day high pressure and I think I used up my good weather window for my lifetime on Logan in 2014. Unlikely I will try again, but man that looks like THE route.

2 weeks is minimum, even if you get lucky and do everything right. Three weeks is better. I agree, if you save all your PTO for a year to go to Denali, you will probably spend many more moments wondering what you are doing with your life and questioning all decisions that led you to this point than moments where you say "This is it!"

With 4 trips to Alaska under my belt, each time the sentiment of "wtf are we doing, we could be actually climbing somewhere else in the world" takes hold. I have had little success up North. The last time I flew off the glacier in 2017, the conversation was "We are never coming here again." By the 2nd beer and after a burger at the West Rib, we were talking about going in on a cabin in Talkeetna. That's just Alaska for you. Stockholm syndrome. There's just something about that place.
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Re: Do you too dream of Denali?

Post by FireOnTheMountain » Thu Dec 24, 2020 10:20 am

I Man wrote:
Thu Dec 24, 2020 7:15 am
By the 2nd beer and after a burger at the West Rib, we were talking about going in on a cabin in Talkeetna. That's just Alaska for you. Stockholm syndrome. There's just something about that place.
Haha word man. My one trip to the Ruth ended similarly. Place is f***ing magical.
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Re: Do you too dream of Denali?

Post by kimbuk2 » Wed Jan 06, 2021 8:11 am

Me! I messaged you to connect!

-Kim
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Re: Do you too dream of Denali?

Post by Monster5 » Wed Jan 06, 2021 3:42 pm

Matt Lemke wrote:
Tue Dec 22, 2020 8:13 pm
They had an amazing year despite covid.
Yeah, no kidding. I met them on Lib Ridge right before their Cassin trip. Total badasses. They achieved what would be over a dozen lifetime objectives for most this past year alone.

Otina - it isn't just the AK Alpine club that's heavy on military and males. Can't say I miss living there whatsoever.

As with Abe, PTO is the main issue despite being in the fortunate position of unlimited PTO and in charge of my schedule. That's almost worse though. I fear my company and employees suffering through a bad month while I'm sitting in a tent jamming out. Blitz trips are just what I'm used to, not expeditions. Blitz trips in AK require abnormal physiology (for altitude) and weather luck.
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