Peak Fifteen

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CaptCO
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by CaptCO »

Is 15 often soloed?
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yaktoleft13
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by yaktoleft13 »

CaptCO wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:04 pm Is 15 often soloed?
The climbing on the standard route isn't hard, definitely within soloing capabilities. But a fall is a game ender. You've already got a rope up there for rappelling purposes, might as well slap a nut or a cam in to make sure you don't die
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CaptCO
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by CaptCO »

yaktoleft13 wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:29 pm
CaptCO wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:04 pm Is 15 often soloed?
The climbing on the standard route isn't hard, definitely within soloing capabilities. But a fall is a game ender. You've already got a rope up there for rappelling purposes, might as well slap a nut or a cam in to make sure you don't die
Thanks! Some like playing with fire
"It's a thing if you want it to be a thing. What others think of something is irrelevant." -OldSchool

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Tornadoman
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by Tornadoman »

CaptCO wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:04 pm Is 15 often soloed?
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=17425

This is a GREAT trip report of an absolutely incredible day which includes Soloing 15. Make sure to click on the link in the 1st paragraph for the details.
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by Tornadoman »

TomPierce wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 6:34 pm Thanks for the route! Yeah, I hear it's a bushwhack for sure, but when I've been on the back side of 15/Little Finger I recall looking down on New York Basin and thinking it'd be a pretty place to camp, relatively flat, etc. Thanks again,

-Tom
I have no knowledge of the area other than looking at topos/trip reports; but if I were going for 15 or 15/16 only, I think I would give this a shot. Looks like it should be a sweet place to camp and a start right at the base of the south couloir seems appealing. Of course, it might not seem so appealing when fighting through an awful bushwhack. If you give it a try I would be curious to hear how it goes for you!
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by DaveLanders »

My brother and I climbed Pk Fifteen from a camp in New York Basin at 11.2k. It was nice to have a short easy approach to the climb, but the backpack was brutal. We did something similar to illusion71il's approach, but we went to a little over 10.8k before traversing. It wasn't a bushwhack in the sense of wallowing through lots of vegetation, but we gained about 1600' vertical in a half mile before the traverse into the basin itself. Whatever you do, don't try to follow New York Creek directly from Needle Creek. On the way out, we didn't traverse far enough west before heading down and got sucked into the drainage. We managed to climb out and get back on track, but it wasn't easy.
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by TomPierce »

CaptCO wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:31 pm
yaktoleft13 wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:29 pm
CaptCO wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:04 pm Is 15 often soloed?
The climbing on the standard route isn't hard, definitely within soloing capabilities. But a fall is a game ender. You've already got a rope up there for rappelling purposes, might as well slap a nut or a cam in to make sure you don't die
Thanks! Some like playing with fire
Alec,

Purely my opinion, but some 5th class peaks lend themselves to a solo, some don't. The ones that do are ledgy climbs, i.e. if you pop off you'll probably land sorta OK on a ledge. Peak Fifteen probably isn't one of those. I recall a few spots where a fall, maybe caused by the occasionally rotten rock, would lead to a sliding drop off enough air to mess you up. Hard to say, it's clearly been done, just not sure I'd do so, esp with the somewhat remote nature of the climb. That area isn't crazy remote, but if you fell I doubt anyone would just happen to pass by that day, and in the 15/16 notch I don't recalll if it was possible to get good cell coverage. If you try, be careful.

Sixteen, on the other hand, is apparently easier.

-Tom
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by Boggy B »

Chicago Transplant wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:56 am As far as approach, Ruby was brutal last year. Could be a combo of a few things for us, one being it was hot and dry and we had heavy gear, also we had come all the way from Purgatory. Another is deadfall and losing the trail. I have never done Twin Thumbs, but I have had the (dis)pleasure of descending NY Basin. We first attempted to approach Fifteen a few years ago from Chicago Basin by way of the slopes around West Eolus. It took too long to get to the bottom of Fifteen and we bailed not wanting to tempt the weather.
Aside from your timing issue, what did you think of the W Eolus approach?
Having been via Ruby, Twin Thumbs, and the Little Finger gully, I'd probably go W Eolus again. The descent off the N side is tedious but in my opinion far less than Ruby or the LF gully (in neve/hardpan anyway).
Your direct route up Fifteen from the Sixteen saddle sounds like the way to go. Though easier, we didn't enjoy the slabs, and the pro is largely imaginary.
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by cottonmountaineering »

everyone hating on ruby, but the fishing was superb there
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by Stratosfearsome »

cottonmountaineering wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 10:08 pm everyone hating on ruby, but the fishing was superb there
Watch out for those Marmots though...
unoriginal is unforgivable
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by Chicago Transplant »

Boggy B wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 9:42 pm
Chicago Transplant wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:56 am As far as approach, Ruby was brutal last year. Could be a combo of a few things for us, one being it was hot and dry and we had heavy gear, also we had come all the way from Purgatory. Another is deadfall and losing the trail. I have never done Twin Thumbs, but I have had the (dis)pleasure of descending NY Basin. We first attempted to approach Fifteen a few years ago from Chicago Basin by way of the slopes around West Eolus. It took too long to get to the bottom of Fifteen and we bailed not wanting to tempt the weather.
Aside from your timing issue, what did you think of the W Eolus approach?
Having been via Ruby, Twin Thumbs, and the Little Finger gully, I'd probably go W Eolus again. The descent off the N side is tedious but in my opinion far less than Ruby or the LF gully (in neve/hardpan anyway).
Your direct route up Fifteen from the Sixteen saddle sounds like the way to go. Though easier, we didn't enjoy the slabs, and the pro is largely imaginary.
I remember thinking from the top it wouldn't be bad, but it took longer than we expected to get down. There were some very large boulders at the bottom that we had to navigate as well. We had also first thought of going on the Eolus side of W Eolus, that had a big slabby face that we didn't want to mess with. Honestly with a good forecast, the least tedious route is probably up and over North Eolus each way :lol:
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by bdwyer »

bergsteigen wrote: Mon Mar 08, 2021 4:16 pm Maybe we can put a team together. I can lead, but am not as confident as I think I should be. Plus really out of practice. Hoping to do a lot of climbing this summer now that I have a friend nearby to climb with. Also looking to take a class on rescue techniques etc, so that will be dependent on how things go with the C this summer.
You are kind. I am interested. Contact me at Beth.dwyer@comcast.net when it is loser and you decide your schedule. I'm retired so wide open.
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