Drone climber on CPR 10am today

[Matt]

As I was driving to work, I heard a commercial on NPR for, "An interview with the leader of a climbing expedition in SW Colorado that used drones."
My guess is that it's Mr. Dhgold, who's prolific as anyone without drones.
Regardless of one's opinion on this issue, it oughta be interesting.
If you aren't in CO, it will eventually show up here: http://www.cpr.org/news/colorado-matters

[jomagam]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=182&v=t32PPHMf6IQ

Not my style, but they did not ruin the rock, so no harm. That rock looks pretty featured; I bet there are 100 climbers in CO who could free solo it.

[Monster5]

Not my style, but they did not ruin the rock, so no harm. That rock looks pretty featured; I bet there are 100 climbers in CO who could free solo it.

No, not really.

Though too humble to admit it, Dhgold was probably among the top 100 CO climbers back in the day, still a pretty darn good climber today, and certainly among the most accomplished choss tower climbers out there.

If a guy who has put up numerous desert tower first ascents can't climb this one (though he stated he could've needlessly bolted/aided it, which is accepted practice for choss towers), are you confident enough in your opinion to dictate proper climbing style?

[Weegie5]

A new way to make Sunlight Spire accessible to more folks (for those that like to count it)?

[jomagam]

If a guy who has put up numerous desert tower first ascents can't climb this one (though he stated he could've needlessly bolted/aided it, which is accepted practice for choss towers), are you confident enough in your opinion to dictate proper climbing style?

Well, I won't get into armchair route grading. I can see somebody not wanting to free solo it, or that the rock wasn't sturdy enough to take trad gear, but give Alex Honnold $100 and he free solos it. Did they try to toprope it after jumaring to the top ? It's a cool project for your drone, but you cannot say that they climbed the tower when 90% of the altitude was gained by pulling on the rope.

[Monster5]

but give Alex Honnold $100 and he free solos it...

I highly doubt it. Honnold's free solo videos rarely show the prep work beforehand. He usually climbs the route multiple times on gear first and even rappels the routes with a brush to clean off any loose or lichen-y junk that might cause an unexpected fall.

He takes a methodical approach to his free solos and reduces the unknowns as much as possible. I haven't seen anything leading me to believe he is reckless enough to free solo an unknown 5.hard choss tower.

[High_On_Thin_Air]

but give Alex Honnold $100 and he free solos it...

He takes a methodical approach to his free solos and reduces the unknowns as much as possible. I haven't seen anything leading me to believe he is reckless enough to free solo an unknown 5.hard choss tower.

You must have not seen Honnold and Wright's first suffer fest videos of cycling the 14ers in California. They rode to each peak and on sight soloed the classic more difficult lines on each mountain, many 5.moderate choss towers at altitude. This does not make Honnold wreckless though. He knows his limitations better than anyone and never solos at his limit.

[SnowAlien]

From the horse's mouth...

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=16048" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Monster5]

You must have not seen Honnold and Wright's first suffer fest videos of cycling the 14ers in California. They rode to each peak and on sight soloed the classic more difficult lines on each mountain, many 5.moderate choss towers at altitude.

Established and frequented routes up to 5.10a on Sierra granite aren't quite in the same league as an unknown, overhanging volcaniclastic hoodoo. The only epic choss they endured was when they got off route and accidentally climbed Norman Clyde, having to endure unknown terrain up to 5.9 to get over to Middle Pal. Getting off-route and into sketchy terrain is common, but they were not purposefully primed to FS choss.

This is choss and they are using ropes.

[Dave B]

but give Alex Honnold $100 and he free solos it.

I just don't think using what one of the most elite athletes in the sport is capable of/willing to do should be used as a metric for what's acceptable on some unnamed choss tower near Creede.

The route is/was virtually unclimbable, they got to the top using a creative method to run the rope. They didn't leave a bunch of bolts or pitons or chip holds or in any way deface the rock - seems like a pretty decent compromise to me and I don't even give a half a s**t about bolts.

If it really is that controversial of a topic (which it ain't) it will open an opportunity for some bad-ass to go get the FFA. Til then, the collective panties of the "climbing community" need some serious unbunching.

[twhalm]

If anything, the climbing community should embrace this! They just got a first ascent on a choss tower without damaging the rock. Would bolting it have been better? The alternatives would be to free solo it or simply not climb it. The latter is clearly unacceptable and the former is a death wish!

EMBRACE THE DRONES!! (a.k.a a remote controlled hexacopter, why do we even call these things drones?)

[peter303]

What about cheating all-14er speed attempts with a tracker on a drone?
I dont think the tecnology is quite all there yet, especially dealing with rough weather. But soon.
And a human pilot would have to guide the drone up all the trails by camera.

Probably in the near future there will be drone shots of all 14er summits and a drone-only speed race up all 14ers.
I hope any self-respecting human climber will swat them down.