Peak Fifteen

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bdwyer
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Joined: 6/8/2014
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by bdwyer »

Chicago Transplant wrote: Mon Mar 15, 2021 1:53 pm
Boggy B wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 9:42 pm
Chicago Transplant wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:56 am As far as approach, Ruby was brutal last year. Could be a combo of a few things for us, one being it was hot and dry and we had heavy gear, also we had come all the way from Purgatory. Another is deadfall and losing the trail. I have never done Twin Thumbs, but I have had the (dis)pleasure of descending NY Basin. We first attempted to approach Fifteen a few years ago from Chicago Basin by way of the slopes around West Eolus. It took too long to get to the bottom of Fifteen and we bailed not wanting to tempt the weather.
Aside from your timing issue, what did you think of the W Eolus approach?
Having been via Ruby, Twin Thumbs, and the Little Finger gully, I'd probably go W Eolus again. The descent off the N side is tedious but in my opinion far less than Ruby or the LF gully (in neve/hardpan anyway).
Your direct route up Fifteen from the Sixteen saddle sounds like the way to go. Though easier, we didn't enjoy the slabs, and the pro is largely imaginary.
I remember thinking from the top it wouldn't be bad, but it took longer than we expected to get down. There were some very large boulders at the bottom that we had to navigate as well. We had also first thought of going on the Eolus side of W Eolus, that had a big slabby face that we didn't want to mess with. Honestly with a good forecast, the least tedious route is probably up and over North Eolus each way :lol:
I'd love to go with you. Other peaks to climb in there also and Peak Sixteen also would be great. Let me know at Beth.dwyer@comcast.net as the summer nears, as interested
bdwyer
Posts: 60
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by bdwyer »

Boggy B wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 9:42 pm
Chicago Transplant wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:56 am As far as approach, Ruby was brutal last year. Could be a combo of a few things for us, one being it was hot and dry and we had heavy gear, also we had come all the way from Purgatory. Another is deadfall and losing the trail. I have never done Twin Thumbs, but I have had the (dis)pleasure of descending NY Basin. We first attempted to approach Fifteen a few years ago from Chicago Basin by way of the slopes around West Eolus. It took too long to get to the bottom of Fifteen and we bailed not wanting to tempt the weather.
Aside from your timing issue, what did you think of the W Eolus approach?
Having been via Ruby, Twin Thumbs, and the Little Finger gully, I'd probably go W Eolus again. The descent off the N side is tedious but in my opinion far less than Ruby or the LF gully (in neve/hardpan anyway).
Your direct route up Fifteen from the Sixteen saddle sounds like the way to go. Though easier, we didn't enjoy the slabs, and the pro is largely imaginary.
Any approach works. I want to do Peaks Eleven and Twelve also, so that approach gives me those as well if I stay longer. I'm sturdy
bdwyer
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by bdwyer »

Tornadoman wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 9:21 pm
CaptCO wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:04 pm Is 15 often soloed?
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=17425

This is a GREAT trip report of an absolutely incredible day which includes Soloing 15. Make sure to click on the link in the 1st paragraph for the details.
THANK YOU
bdwyer
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by bdwyer »

yaktoleft13 wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:29 pm
CaptCO wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:04 pm Is 15 often soloed?
The climbing on the standard route isn't hard, definitely within soloing capabilities. But a fall is a game ender. You've already got a rope up there for rappelling purposes, might as well slap a nut or a cam in to make sure you don't die
This is what I have been told by everyone! Most of whom are 13 finishers, and Dave Goldwater told me you can do it, but WHY?
bdwyer
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by bdwyer »

bergsteigen wrote: Mon Mar 08, 2021 4:16 pm Maybe we can put a team together. I can lead, but am not as confident as I think I should be. Plus really out of practice. Hoping to do a lot of climbing this summer now that I have a friend nearby to climb with. Also looking to take a class on rescue techniques etc, so that will be dependent on how things go with the C this summer.
Very interested. PM with my email if you want to plan something on this.
bdwyer
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by bdwyer »

Conor wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 5:53 am I'd be interested. I can "lead" it and have all the gear. I'd prefer a group of 2. No more than 3. If the group gets large enough I can figure out another time to go grab it.
My phone is 303-990-1718. I am as flexible as it comes... Let me know
bdwyer
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Joined: 6/8/2014
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Re: Peak Fifteen

Post by bdwyer »

when is anyone going in to do Peak Fifteen. Do you have a train reservation if so. Really want to go and can do it...
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