Kyrgyzstan Expedition Partners

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pvnisher
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Re: Kyrgyzstan Expedition Partners

Post by pvnisher »

handonbroward wrote: Thu Dec 30, 2021 7:01 am
Traveled to the 'stans for personal fun? Assuming one of the two you haven't visited is Afghanistan, what is the other? Such an intriguing area...
[/quote]

Ha. Three tours in lovely Afghanistan. Kabul, khowst, jalalabad, Herat, plus some little places that don't exist anymore. Now my "2021" war rug is a bit of a collectors item, unlikely there's many of those around, and less likely to have anyone make a 2022!

Never made it to Uzbekistan or Tajikistan. Had plans but, you know, covid.
Just doing my part to keep the world safe for democracy and Pax Americana.
TomPierce
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Re: Kyrgyzstan Expedition Partners

Post by TomPierce »

Paulbarish,

For years & years Khan Tengri was my dream mountain. High but not 8,000m, and a short tech section to keep out the riff raff. I came very close to going, but right when I floated the idea to my wife Craig Luebben had just died in a freak wrong-place-wrong-time accident. Wife was understandably freaked, I put it off, etc. Now I'm not nearly as fast as I was, but have way more endurance, frustrating. But going that far far for that long isn't feasible for me now, and candidly my interests have moved on. I wish you a safe and (reasonably) exciting trip.

One last thing: One of the issues I pondered on that climb was descending really steep sections of fixed lines, and at that latitude probably frozen; frozen ropes are like cables. Rapping is way too tedious, an ATC-style device probably wouldn't easily/quickly work on frozen ropes. But just clipping a line and/or arm-wrapping it provides little braking in a stumble.When I was planning the KT trip I bought a unique figure-8 device made by Simond; a figure 8 should be way easier to use with frozen ropes, and this device had two teeth cast into it that would really aid with braking. Never seen another like it, aluminum construction. Yours for free if interested, totally unused, brand new. Let me know and again good luck, be safe.

-Tom
pvnisher
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Re: Kyrgyzstan Expedition Partners

Post by pvnisher »

In terms of unique devices, check out the Omega Pacific sbg ii.
Can be an ATC with either u or v groove, or a figure 8 with two clipping options depending on rope diameter.

I've had one in my kit for years and while it's not often my first choice (for when things go as planned), it's a great second device that covers a wide range of situations.

I keep it as my second, or loaner, since no matter what rope it's on I can make it work.

https://www.herooutdoors.com/omega-paci ... el-device/
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paulbarish
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Re: Kyrgyzstan Expedition Partners

Post by paulbarish »

Your adventures in the stans' sound wild! Im looking forward to having my own adventures there. Thanks for all the beta on the figure 8 devices too. Still hoping to entice another experienced climber on here to consider joining me on the trip!
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kushrocks
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Re: Kyrgyzstan Expedition Partners

Post by kushrocks »

Bump for anyone possibly debating on going this year.
“The best climber in the world is the one who is having all the fun.” – Alex Lowe
" Don’t be afraid to move out of your comfort zone. Some of your best life experiences and opportunities will transpire only after you dare to loose."
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