The Wilsons?

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LURE
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Re: The Wilsons?

Post by LURE »

Wentzl wrote: Thu Jun 08, 2023 8:19 pm
LURE wrote: Wed Jun 07, 2023 9:29 am the pucker factor on final mt wilson move from north is way understated IMO. that is a very, very airy few moves. solid rock tho.

+1 stay away from north slopes on el d, regretted every minute of that climb.
This difference between North Slopes and North Buttress should be cleaned up on the 14er.com site. The slopes are sloppy and dangerous. The buttress is clean, safe and altogether a more satisfying experience. The North Buttress should be the standard route for El D, but with a caveat. The finish is a little tricky to figure out. There are several tempting exits, but one easy finish. This might be why it has been overlooked, but it isn't hard. Here is a tip. When you can see the end, veer to the right!
in hindsight, i would likely agree.

we were well aware of the buttress at the time we climbed it, but i think we were generally under the impression it was way too commanding, committing, and high risk for our skill level. i think we were slightly misperceiving that though, likely out of ignorance and we didn't look into it any further for those reasons.

rock fall danger on north slopes is bad. it's just honestly someplace no one should go.


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ICantHearYou
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Re: The Wilsons?

Post by ICantHearYou »

LURE wrote: Fri Jun 09, 2023 2:02 pm
Wentzl wrote: Thu Jun 08, 2023 8:19 pm
LURE wrote: Wed Jun 07, 2023 9:29 am the pucker factor on final mt wilson move from north is way understated IMO. that is a very, very airy few moves. solid rock tho.

+1 stay away from north slopes on el d, regretted every minute of that climb.
This difference between North Slopes and North Buttress should be cleaned up on the 14er.com site. The slopes are sloppy and dangerous. The buttress is clean, safe and altogether a more satisfying experience. The North Buttress should be the standard route for El D, but with a caveat. The finish is a little tricky to figure out. There are several tempting exits, but one easy finish. This might be why it has been overlooked, but it isn't hard. Here is a tip. When you can see the end, veer to the right!
in hindsight, i would likely agree.

we were well aware of the buttress at the time we climbed it, but i think we were generally under the impression it was way too commanding, committing, and high risk for our skill level. i think we were slightly misperceiving that though, likely out of ignorance and we didn't look into it any further for those reasons.

rock fall danger on north slopes is bad. it's just honestly someplace no one should go.



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Yikes. That looks horrifying.

I am not sure why the South Slopes route on El Diente isn't the standard route. My group went up that route last summer and didn't find anything sketchy or exposed. I am guessing it is because most people camp in the Navajo basin to get all three peaks. Last year, after reading about North Slopes horrors, we decided to hike in from Kilpacker trailhead and camp in Navajo to get Wilson Peak and relocate to Kilpacker Basin to get the traverse, then hike out. The hike from Navajo to Kilpacker was really nice, chill, and mostly downhill. I feel like that is the way to get all three in a weekend.
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Re: The Wilsons?

Post by Ptglhs »

ICantHearYou wrote: Fri Jun 09, 2023 2:43 pm I am not sure why the South Slopes route on El Diente isn't the standard route. My group went up that route last summer and didn't find anything sketchy or exposed. I am guessing it is because most people camp in the Navajo basin to get all three peaks. Last year, after reading about North Slopes horrors, we decided to hike in from Kilpacker trailhead and camp in Navajo to get Wilson Peak and relocate to Kilpacker Basin to get the traverse, then hike out. The hike from Navajo to Kilpacker was really nice, chill, and mostly downhill. I feel like that is the way to get all three in a weekend.
I agree with you. I feel like the south through kilpacker was MUCH more mild than what I've heard about Wilson from the north. Wilson SW was class 2+ IMO and el diente's south slopes weren't sketchy either. The only thing Navajo has going for it is you can conceivably get all three peaks if you start there. I did kilpacker approach and camped out before Wilson, woods lake approach and camped out before the other Wilson, and kilpacker approach and camped (same spot) before el diente.
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Re: The Wilsons?

Post by Jorts »

If you want to tag all 3 in a day, the most feasible, economical route is:

Park at Rock of Ages, go over the saddle into the Navajo drainage, climb North Buttress to El Diente, traverse over to Mt Wilson, descend Mt Wilson's north slopes, regain the saddle and tag Wilson Peak on your way back to your vehicle. If you're moving efficiently it goes under 12 hours without having to push the pace.

https://www.strava.com/activities/5592513058
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Re: The Wilsons?

Post by Wentzl »

Jorts wrote: Fri Jun 09, 2023 5:55 pm If you want to tag all 3 in a day, the most feasible, economical route is:

Park at Rock of Ages, go over the saddle into the Navajo drainage, climb North Buttress to El Diente, traverse over to Mt Wilson, descend Mt Wilson's north slopes, regain the saddle and tag Wilson Peak on your way back to your vehicle. If you're moving efficiently it goes under 12 hours without having to push the pace.

https://www.strava.com/activities/5592513058

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Yes. +1

12 hours is not an easy pace. I would suggest 15 hrs for mere mortals, but camel in a cache of food and water and leave it up on ROA pass to pick up at the end of the day for Wilson Peak.
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Re: The Wilsons?

Post by nunns »

I appreciate the advice about all 3 peaks in one day, but I am way too old and mortal for that.
Sounds like Kilpacker for Mt. Wilson and El D, come down, drive around, then Wilson Pk from Rock of Ages is the way to go for our group.

Sean Nunn
Raytown MO
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DeTour
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Re: The Wilsons?

Post by DeTour »

Sean, I'm thinking you may encounter conditions on the traverse similar to what we had in 2019. My TR on that is linked below. A few points you might find helpful:
-- The short north-facing gully that the route description says to use for the final summit pitch may be snow-filled. If so - or even if it isn't - just climb the ridge from the notch (photo 21 in South Slopes route desc.) I used that gully in dry conditions in 2009 and hated it - small slick scree, steep, rolls over a cliff below. Climbed the rib in 2019 and loved it - easy class 3.
-- My take on the traverse is different from most. The "loose, grey rock" preceding the gendarmes was scary (photos 8-9-10 in the Traverse route description). I think staying high on it is probably best, but most importantly, tread lightly! I also thought the exposure crossing the gendarmes was more intimidating than anything on the large headwall or Mt. Wilson summit ridge.
-- The thing about that crux boulder on the Mt. Wilson summit pitch is, as far as I could tell, you have to pull yourself up with your arms. I couldn't see a way to push up with my feet. It has good holds for your hands, but I passed on the exposed pull-up and went left. I still ended up pulling myself up the final block, but with considerably less exposure.
-- We had lots of snow in the basin returning from Mt. Wilson. We were fine without microspikes, and there was no postholing by that time of year, although I did wonder at one point if there was any risk of breaking through when we heard running water beneath us.
-- My TR has coordinates of the highest possible campsite if that's your objective, courtesy of PBergmaier.

The traverse is a great route, the highlight of my 14er experience. The climbing isn't that difficult - maybe a tick harder than your class 3 experience, but in the same realm, especially if you're tall enough for a few longer reaches. Good weather is a must for guys like us on that route, and watch for the loose stuff.

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Re: The Wilsons?

Post by nmjameswilson »

I did both from Kilpacker and they are really easy IMO when done separately though there are dangers on both.
El Diente is an easy climb from Kilpacker however rockfall is a concern if you have climbers ahead/behind you. We had a microwave sided rock just miss my climbing partner.
Mt Wilson is pretty straight forward from that side with a bit of route finding towards the top. It is a long way TH - TH for this one.
IMO El Diente is Class 2+ and Mt. Wilson is an easy Class 3 from Kilpacker.

Little Bear is just the hourglass and Como Road IMO. If no one is climbing around you it is an easy climb through the Hourglass. With other around it is a bowling ally from hell. Communication with other climbing ahead/behind you is a must.
Capitol I did TH - TH and thought it was the best way to do it though that might not work for all as it is 17 miles. Capitol is the real deal and requires skills learned along the way on other climbs. I saved Capitol for my 57/58 due to this.
nunns wrote: Mon Jun 12, 2023 8:27 am I appreciate the advice about all 3 peaks in one day, but I am way too old and mortal for that.
Sounds like Kilpacker for Mt. Wilson and El D, come down, drive around, then Wilson Pk from Rock of Ages is the way to go for our group.

Sean Nunn
Raytown MO
I had missed this ... yes this is how I did it other than I did the El Diente and Mt. Wilson on different days due to climbing partners.
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