Backpack suggestion

[dubsho3000]

I'm curious what backpacks (brand and volume) people would recommend for glaciated peaks. I'm thinking about the Kautz route on Rainier, so would need to have 2 loops for ice tools. Ideally this pack would replace a 65L pack I've used for the past 15 years, which is really a backpacking backpack (with one poorly place ice ax loop) and not great for climbs. Looking for something that could be small enough for a one night trip like Kautz and big enough for a 5 night peakbagging backpacking trip.

"Buy 2 backpacks" is an acceptable recommendation

[desertdog]

Look at Hyperlite Mountain Gear. Love mine! A less expensive option would be the Black Diamond Speed 50, although this may not be large enough for your needs.

[Conor]

I used my clio gear 3030 worksack when I carried over on the kautz (2 day/1 night trip). I have a love/hate with my worksack. When it is fully loaded, it is awesome. When it is not, it sucks. So, if you splash out for a cliogear, I would have in mind not to use it when not fully stuffed.

Honestly, packs for mountaineering have come a long way in the last couple of years. All the major brands make them now. And you have the "cottage operations" like Cliogear, alpine luddite, CCW etc. I would buy smaller than you think. The bigger the pack, the more you carry. I also prefer some rigidity to the back.

a McHale pack is my dream, maybe one day...

[Scott P]

Different packs fit different people. Gregory seems to fit me the best while Ospreys tend to fit my wife best. Try on several packs first before choosing. This is why it's hard to recommend a specific pack since different packs have different fits.

[angry]

Check out dueter mountaineering series, 45L is big enough.
I saw mystery ranch recently dropped a new line but haven’t seen it up close yet.

a McHale pack is my dream, maybe one day...

Conor, wanna go back for liberty cap?

[nyker]

I'm curious what backpacks (brand and volume) people would recommend for glaciated peaks. I'm thinking about the Kautz route on Rainier, so would need to have 2 loops for ice tools. Ideally this pack would replace a 65L pack I've used for the past 15 years, which is really a backpacking backpack (with one poorly place ice ax loop) and not great for climbs. Looking for something that could be small enough for a one night trip like Kautz and big enough for a 5 night peakbagging backpacking trip.

"Buy 2 backpacks" is an acceptable recommendation

On Rainier I used my Osprey Atmos 65L - the older version (~12yrs) was lighter than the current versions I think and was light so I used it for my summit pack as well. It has two ice axe loops, side pockets, top pocket and sleeping bag section.
I also used it for 4-5 day trips with no problem.

[SnowAlien]

I still really like my Deuter 55 ACT pack, which I got for Rainier 10 years ago, but it's more of a backpacking pack (but you can fit anything on it including skis). But when I was recently looked at packs, Osprey Mutant 38L/52 L jumped at me. Seems like a great option and guides swear by it.
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/ ... -mutant-38

[Conor]

Check out dueter mountaineering series, 45L is big enough.
I saw mystery ranch recently dropped a new line but haven’t seen it up close yet.

a McHale pack is my dream, maybe one day...

Conor, wanna go back for liberty cap?

Yes. We should talk.

[dubsho3000]

Thanks for the suggestions all. I found a used Lowe backpack that fit well, but I think it was 85L, expandable to 105L, or something like that. Too big, but it made me wonder if there is something 55L expandable to 75+

[Wildernessjane]

I used an Osprey Variant 52L on every glaciated PNW that I’ve done, including Kautz and a carryover of Ptarmigan Ridge to Emmons. I believe the Mutant is the newer version of the Variant, which is no longer made. I’ve found 52L to be adequate for June/July in PNW. Some things can be attached to the outside, if needed, and you will have more space when using crampons and technical gear.

[Hiking_TheRockies]

But when I was recently looked at packs, Osprey Mutant 38L/52 L jumped at me. Seems like a great option and guides swear by it.
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/ ... -mutant-38

+1 on the Osprey Mutant. It can carry a lot of stuff on the exterior and is roomy on the inside. I mainly use the 38L for hiking, but I took it ice climbing and it carried both ice tools, ropes, and other gear no problem.

[GregMiller]

Another +1 for the Mutant 52 for Rainier, carries a lot of weight very well, while staying out of your way. One thing to note - it's definitely worth going to a shop that has it, and putting a LOT of weight in it, to see how it fits on you. It's perfect on me, where other packs like the Gregory Alpinisto felt great empty but turned very uncomfortable with over 20 lbs in it.

EDIT - one change I did make on the Mutant, the upper side compression strap has a buckle, so you can undo it (nice for strapping a rope over your pack) but the bottom one does not, I replaced the stock ladderlock on the bottom strap with a sea2summit buckle, which makes strapping gear on the pack a bit nicer. I also put some bungee cord criss-crossed through the daisy on the outside of the pack so I can strap crampons on the outside of the pack, so I'm not worried about them tearing up gear inside my pack.