Jim Davies wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 7:34 am
Rollie Free wrote: ↑Wed Oct 19, 2022 11:07 am
On a good weekend day in the summer, how many people are going to climb or hike on one of the 14ers? If you would take that number and compare it to a town of similar size then would the death rate be comparable?
Death rates on 14ers are about 1 in 50,000 days (very approximate).
Overall, people live an average of about 30,000 days.
So, you could argue that climbing 14ers is SAFER than just existing, but that's clearly ridiculous. What's important is the age at which people die, which is much, much younger if they die in climbing accidents than if they expire in their sleep at age 80 in a retirement home.
I think there's also different kinds of risks, and different levels of sustainability within those risks. If you climb Elbert 100 times what are the odds that 100 times you come home alive? What about Capitol, or the LB traverse? If you ski x face 100 times what are the odds you don't rip out the slope?
Lots of risks are okay once or twice because they are very low probability. (To finish the 14ers you only really have to be in exposed terrain 15 or so times)
Issue is if there are high consequence then they become less repeatable. This is a huge huge thing as a backcountry skier or alpinist to consider. You need to make sure your choices are repeatable, that if you did it 100 times you would be okay 100 times. Why? Because it's a long life and you will go skiing a lot of times. The same applies to 14ers. (However I think the probability of disaster on the average 14er hike is lower than when dealing w/ risks associated with skiing, alpine climbing etc.) This is why I stay under 30° most of the winter, I'd like to be doing this a long time and I don't believe taking in the higher risk of assessing and skiing midwinter snow is usually worth the long term consequences.
This btw is also the reason most backcountry ski accidents are experienced skiers. They have been doing it a long time and risk is cumulative. Mathematically each time you go out, disaster is a little more likely as you expand your sample set. The the slide last year on the battleship as an example.
Then the concept of normalization of deviance comes into play. Experienced users normalize a higher and higher level of risk based on a lack of negative feedback. "I did this and was safe last time, so it'll be safe next time too" Issue is yours still dealing with a low probability but high consequence risk, and you just don't realize it because our own experience tends to override what we learn in a classroom. They don't see in a surface level that maybe it's safe 9/10 times but the tenth time it won't be. Only way to deal with that is have some very firm risks you won't ever accept - and only the individual can decide what those are.
Normalzation of Deviance means odds of surviving literally go down over time as you accept lower and lower levels of risk sustainability. Not just because of cumulative risk, but also accepting higher and higher levels of risk. Maybe now the risks you are taking are only safe 70/100 times - how long till you trip over the edge and hit that 71st time?
But then it's messy because to achieve at a high level you must accept higher risks. You want to SKI all the 14ers? How man times can you ski capitol safely? Can you ski the Landry like 100/100 times? That's a much higher level of risk and yeah you get the point. What are you willing to compromise in the name of experience, accomplishment etc? Because end of the day no matter how experienced you are your still just as vulnerable to the consequences of risk acceptance