Peak Condition Update | Dallas Peak

Peak:	Dallas Peak
Route:	Standard
Range:	San Juan
Posted By:	Bigperm
Date of Info:	9/23/2019
Date Posted:	9/25/2019

Details
1. Do not take the standard Roche route up from the High line Trail. He describes ascending through the gullies to the traverse under the cliffs. The route goes up a class3 black gully on the left which becomes grey at its top. This route sucks really bad! There's a variation that's developed over the years to climbers right that ascends a high point between gullies. The trail is a little tough to spot from the High line Trail but if you head to the right side of a low wide grey v shaped gully it should become clearer higher up. The trail is cairned higher up to help you through some improbable terrain at class2+, at worst. There's a great beta picture available from another resource (SP, username Kiefer). Find it and use it for ascent and descent. Use the yellow route in that picture. 2. The summit pitch is not far down from the pedestal to the right. Maybe 50ish feet down around. Picture attached. Crux is the first 20ft then another near the top. Rap slings and rings were good. 3. We used a 60m and were happy we did. The rap through the hole could leave you short with a 50m. Moreover, the intermediate rap above the hole appears to be around a rock that doesn't look large enough and we thought should probably not be trusted. There's another anchor at the top of the class4 bit that gets you to the summit pitch that is good which is a single sling with rings. 4. The anchor above the "green-ish" class 4 climb that gets you up to the summit towers is good. Two new slings with rings. Finding it was easy as we approached it from above.

Details

1. Do not take the standard Roche route up from the High line Trail. He describes ascending through the gullies to the traverse under the cliffs. The route goes up a class3 black gully on the left which becomes grey at its top. This route sucks really bad! There's a variation that's developed over the years to climbers right that ascends a high point between gullies. The trail is a little tough to spot from the High line Trail but if you head to the right side of a low wide grey v shaped gully it should become clearer higher up. The trail is cairned higher up to help you through some improbable terrain at class2+, at worst. There's a great beta picture available from another resource (SP, username Kiefer). Find it and use it for ascent and descent. Use the yellow route in that picture.

2. The summit pitch is not far down from the pedestal to the right. Maybe 50ish feet down around. Picture attached. Crux is the first 20ft then another near the top. Rap slings and rings were good.

3. We used a 60m and were happy we did. The rap through the hole could leave you short with a 50m. Moreover, the intermediate rap above the hole appears to be around a rock that doesn't look large enough and we thought should probably not be trusted. There's another anchor at the top of the class4 bit that gets you to the summit pitch that is good which is a single sling with rings.

4. The anchor above the "green-ish" class 4 climb that gets you up to the summit towers is good. Two new slings with rings. Finding it was easy as we approached it from above.

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