|Peak:||Unnamed 13060 B (13er)|
|Posted By:||Chicago Transplant|
|Date of Info:||10/06/2019|
The north gully is still very full of snow, and the apron blocks easy access to the lower flanks of the gully or slopes above. The snow is ice hard and even the very small low angle section I crossed was difficult to gain traction on. Above this I went up a small loose gully/ramp system to bypass the lower cliff. The north slopes above this were a mix of loose rock, 3rd class dirt/mud and a few steep class 3 (maybe a few spots of 4) rock bands that had enough solid rock to feel safer than the dirt. I don't recommend this route in these conditions, and probably should have turned around. The south side of the ridge has much more enjoyable terrain and the summit pitch is solid, fun, exposed class 3. I recommend waiting for spring snow and climbing with axe/crampons or exploring the south gully route (1800' of talus) from Bear Creek - which is the Pierre Lakes approach.
FYI, there is a better approach to bypass 12903 than the talus gully others have used. Where the Moon Lake trail crosses the creek in a meadow at ~10,400, head up the Moon Lake trail on the east side of the creek, leaving it and going up the grass/open tree gully higher up near around 10,700 or so. We found a switchbacking trail even higher up this gully that led to the PT12903/PT11865 saddle. Contour grass and talus to the base of the gully that crosses PT12903's east ridge that accesses this peak.
1: Overview from approach
2: Looking down my gully/ramp to access the mountain
3: Looking down the north slopes
4: The south side of the ridge
Photos (click for slideshow):