Climbed James Peak via the Glacier route today with my friend Max. It was a really nice bluebird day that was actually less windy than we were anticipating. In the morning the glacier had pretty hard packed snow so we didn't need snowshoes until we crested the rise and made it a quarter of the way across the flats toward James. There was no wind until the top of the glacier, then a steady stream from the west the rest of the way with little or no gusting. The snowshoes stayed on all the way up; the summit block has plenty of scalloped drifts that are a couple of feet deep. Unfortunately there's won't be a track left; it was immediately being covered by the wind as we went. Along the way we met a really cool climber who showed us the Shooting Star couloir from the summit. John, if you see this, maybe you could speak to the conditions in the chute. Couldn't have asked for a better day out in February of all months!
There's a place at the bottom that is in the path of avalanches. Do you have thoughts about how that looks right now and whether one can detour around it? -- Thanks, -Wolfgang