14ers.com • Peak Condition Update

Peak:	Wetterhorn Peak (14er)
Route:	Southeast Ridge
Range:	San Juan
Posted By:	Christensenje
Date of Info:	06/03/2020
Date Posted:	06/03/2020

Details
It goes! Traction could be used but not necessary. Also went for the traverse to Matterhorn. Needed ice axe for the initial down climb but then rest of snow on ridge was solid. Started the traverse at 7:30. Snow on traverse only for first half. Last half dry. I'd think all snow would be gone in 2 weeks. Just be aware that the rock on the traverse is not stable. Test every hold, especially on last half.

Details

It goes! Traction could be used but not necessary.

Also went for the traverse to Matterhorn. Needed ice axe for the initial down climb but then rest of snow on ridge was solid. Started the traverse at 7:30. Snow on traverse only for first half. Last half dry.

I'd think all snow would be gone in 2 weeks. Just be aware that the rock on the traverse is not stable. Test every hold, especially on last half.

Comments or Questions

slawrence2011	Nice Work! 06/03/2020 16:16 That traverse is harrowing even in summer conditions, I did it last summer. The last few towers on the last half were very sketchy, I had to downclimb around one of them, which wasn't much better. Nice to hear someone else tried this!
Bombay2Boulder	Matterhorn Standard route? 06/03/2020 20:30 Is the standard route down matterhorn free of snow or requires any traction/flotation?
Chasssbarc	Wetterhorn 06/05/2020 18:46 What is the road to the trailhead like? Is there any snow on the main Wetterhorn trail? Your Ã¢‚¬Å“It goes!Ã¢‚¬Â has me excited but your addition of the Matterhorn makes me wary, since IÃ¢‚¬„¢m definitely not quite to that level.