Peak:  "Huerfanito" (13er)
 Route:  North Face from Mount Lindsey
 Range:  Sangre de Cristo
 Posted By:  supranihilest
 Date of Info:  07/06/2020
 Date Posted:  07/07/2020

Quite honestly one of the worst routes I have ever done. I wouldn't even bother reading this entire conditions report, finding a different route is simply the better option.

From the saddle below Lindsey I took the trail down quite a ways to where it met grassy slopes between Lindsey and "Huerfanito", then went off trail and across the grass and a massive boulderfield. I had originally intended to climb "Huerfanito"'s northwest ridge, and it looked alright (just loose as a goose, probably) since there was an OK looking talus climb to the ridge, then what looked like a scramble up. As I got closer I passed under the north face which was just steep scree/talus and I decided to take a direct route instead. Bad idea. This thing is hideously, heinously, awfully, terribly, horribly, horrendously loose. It looks good since there's some grass on the slope, but nope, I literally crawled on my hands and knees up this stupid peak because of how loose this crap was. I'd take a step and EVERYTHING in a 5-6 foot radius would move. I am not kidding. I'd place weight on a foot and slide backwards three feet. Sometimes it was best to excavate to the hardpan below, then dig a little step into the hardpan, then go up. To say this route was exceptionally tedious and frustrating is a major understatement. Near the top there's a bit of solid rock I used for stability, but it was shortlived and still loose. The summit block itself is, take a guess, totally loose! I scrambled up a short dihedral at Class 3-4, but there was a Class 2 walkup around the backside. Descending the north face was perhaps even worse. I thought I'd be able to scree surf down and probably spent more time on my ass than I did upright, since I was basically the trigger point of small rockalanches all the way down. The mid-sized stuff was the best to descend on. Hardpan, small scree, and talus was awful. Once back on grass at the bottom I breathed a sigh of relief and returned to the trail, thankful that nonsense was over. Someone please take up the personal thermonuclear device you're entitled to as a red blooded American who values your Second Amendment rights and nuke this damn thing off the face of the earth. Once again, definitely do a different route, this one is $110% pure garbage.

 Comments or Questions

Quite honestly one of the worst routes I have ever
07/07/2020 11:28
No elaborate analysis is necessary here to map from your use of adjectives to your mental state :-)


07/07/2020 11:38
As the last peak on a long day I was exhausted and I'm pretty sure pure, white hot spite powered me up this peak. The entire Huerfano valley could probably hear me cussing up and down this thing. To say my mental state was somewhere sub-"completely and utterly over it" would be highly accurate.


no mas choss
07/07/2020 13:52
I took a look at it from the saddle and didn't want any part of it, plus had other peaks to drive down to, you confirmed my suspicions. Surprised others didn't make it out to be so bad. Maybe better with snow or a different side. That unnamed 12er below Iron Nipple looks like another rough one but not as bad,, but looks really cool from the trailhead. I've climbed enough in the Never Summers to hit my share of nasty scree like that.


hideously, heinously, awfully, terribly, horribly,
07/07/2020 15:34
LOL I love this whole thing ... probably because I can only imagine how awful it was, want no part of it, and can just hear how bad it really was through your recollection. Thanks for the smile. PS California from the lower Huerfano TH is marvelous


I need to climb this
07/08/2020 06:47
Iâm gonna need to do this to verify your scale of suckiness!


Da worstest is da bestest?
07/08/2020 11:59
@cougar: I think the south face/slopes would probably be better. With my original intent to do the northwest ridge I didn't consider the south side much, but looking at topo maps it's less steep. Probably still super loose, but of less consequence.

@E_A_Marcus: black humor is the best. I had to make this funny (subjective, of course) or else I'd always just be disgusted by this peak.

@Will: haha, have a blast man. I'm sure you'll enjoy it, it's the perfect masochist's route! Then after you're done go make your way up Point 12,601 over by La Plata and descend its west slopes. That's my benchmark bushwhack and "Huerfanito" is now my benchmark scree slog.


CR title update:
07/09/2020 22:58
Ben and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Route

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