Peak:  Mt. Wilson (14er)
 Route:  Southwest Slopes
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  PikaSteve
 Date of Info:  07/06/2020
 Date Posted:  07/07/2020

Three minor snow patches from 12,300' to 12,700' were easily crossed. Continuous snow fields from 13,100' to 13,700' required microspikes and ice axe. Snow was steepest and firmest from 13,600' to 13,700' - I downclimbed rocks to avoid this slope on my descent. Any snow above 13,800' was at the edges of the gullies and did not impact climbing on a mix of dirt, scree and rock. Studying the route photos in advance was critical to navigating up to the notch via the gullies and rib crossover. See attached pictures and captions for the snowy details as of July 6th.

About 8 climbers summitted via SW slopes route on a beautiful Monday in Kilpacker Basin. Thanks to Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, the trail was very smooth up to treeline. Flowers are out and mosquitos were light.

Pic 1: Kilpacker Creek crossing at 10,400': log at back of photo was dry, stable and had low consequences if stepping into creek
Pic 2: CFI Stairway to Heaven
Pic 3: CFI Inca Trail
Pic 4: El Diente and South Wilson dominate the views for most of the approach
Pic 5: At 12,700' looking up at El Diente
Pic 6: At 12,700' looking up at South Wilson with Mt Wilson barely visible left of center
Pic 7: At 12,700' looking back at small snowfields crossed so far
Pic 8: Turning corner at 13,100' to see Mt Wilson
Pic 9: Ascended to 13,700' - top of snow left of center. On descent, avoided steepest snow by downclimbing rocks right of center to top of boot ski tracks at about 13,600'.
Pic 10: Details of upper route - on way down from notch, rib crossover point is just below upper snowfield
Pic 11: Summit view toward El Diente
Pic 12: Summit view toward Wilson Peak
Pic 13: Descent path from about 13,600'
Pic 14: Afternoon view up Kilpacker Basin
Pic 15: Morning view up Kilpacker Basin

Photos (click for slideshow):

 Comments or Questions

This helps a lot
07/08/2020 12:41


nice pics
07/08/2020 14:36
thanks for posting. heading that way soon.

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