Peak:  Mt. Wilson (14er)
 Route:  North Slopes
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  sailingstar22
 Date of Info:  07/11/2020
 Date Posted:  07/13/2020
 Details

Fantastic weather day up the south routes of El Diente, Traverse, Mt. Wilson and back down. Several rockfall incidents on the traverse and North Mt. Wilson route. In looking at the north routes from Wilson peak on 7/12, they are still holding quite a bit of snow (and combined with the loose rock would be hellacious). Very glad we changed our plans to do the south routes. Traverse is essentially snow free with a 10ft crossing that is relatively easy (compared to some of the moves on the rest of the route); we were also glad to have done it from ED to MW, as the opposite would have required a very challenging downclimb after the narrows) Decent of Mt. Wilson was much more pleasant than expected. We brought ice axes, but the glissades were so mild that we didn't even bother to unstrap them from our packs. More of a burden to carry across the traverse than anything else.

If you plan to camp on Killpacker, there is an awesome campsite in the second to last set of trees before the waterfall - it is mostly obscured from the trail, so you have to hunt around a bit, but very worth it for the waterfall views/sounds, flat surface, and fire pit (not allowed right now, but had some flat rocks for our meal prep and stove). Just fill up your water at the stream cross to avoid a long descent to the waterfall runoff.




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