| Peak: | Wetterhorn Peak (14er) |
| Route: | Matterhorn to Wetterhorn Traverse |
| Range: | San Juan |
| Posted By: | Thevirtualsherpa |
| Date of Info: | 09/16/2020 |
| Date Posted: | 09/17/2020 |
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Standard routes up Matterhorn and Wetterhorn are bone dry. Traverse had a bit of snow on the north side, but you should not have to deal with it. Full report on the traverse coming soon on the site and channel, but for anyone curious: it is very gnarly. Not so much because of the exposure or technical climbing but because of the mountain conditions (EVERYTHING is loose) for the first 1/4 - 1/2 of the traverse. The first two towers are the worst, almost bailed on the route here because I felt so unsafe. Was sending everything flying from dinner plates to plasma TV sized rocks. Once you get closer to Wetterhorn, rock quality improves but still can't trust 75% of your holds. Thank you to the two previous trip reports on this, both were instrumental in helping me find my way due to the lack of other beta. After the first two towers you can stay true to ridge for 90% of the climb. Loads of class 3/4 and option for 5 climbing here. Was extremely relieved to stand on Wetterhorn after 3+ hours spent on the ridge. Don't recommend this one unless you are solo or a very small party and have the patience to test every single hold and know you still have a high chance of sending loads and loads of rock. Very apparent why this is on no ones "classic" list. |
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