Peak:  Ice Mountain (13er)
 Route:  Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
 Range:  Sawatch
 Posted By:  slawrence2011
 Date of Info:  09/16/2020
 Date Posted:  09/17/2020

There was plenty of snow between the Talus, but we were mostly able to rock hop on dry rocks up to the ridge between Ice and North, excluding one moderate gully between the lake at 12,100 and the ridge. The Ice ridge was very doable on rock on the ridge crest up until the crux gully just below the summit. The refrigerator couloir appears to be completely filled in, so we put on crampons and ice axe to ascend back up to the ridge. However, neither of these really helped, since the snow was so soft. I ended up taking off my crampons, and climbing a sketchy class 4+/class 5- series of half snow covered ledges up to the ridge just below the summit. This got me there, but it was way too sketchy to downclimb. After attempting to downclimb the route described by Roach, which was also half snow covered and sketchy, I elected to downclimb the ridge that almost connects to the initial ridge, since at least it was dry. Very doable until the very bottom, where it was incredibly loose, and I barely managed to find enough holds to get back on route. My partner did not go for the summit, and that was the wiser choice.

Photos (click for slideshow):

 Comments or Questions

09/17/2020 10:30
That's crazy man. That mountain is nuts. Good job staying alive

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