Peak:  Maroon Peak (14er)
 Route:  South Ridge
 Range:  Elk
 Posted By:  Makbrad
 Date of Info:  09/16/2020
 Date Posted:  09/17/2020

A lot of snow has melted since the last conditions report below was posted. Almost all of the traverse itself is dry with the exception of a few patches and pockets, some avoidable, some not. The chimneys on the spires are dry.

The downclimbs off both Maroon and North Maroon are holding snow and some pockets of ice. These are currently the two cruxes of the climb.

The downclimb off Maroon toward the traverse is pretty hairy in a few areas. Spikes are helpful. There are a couple of small pockets of ice on some of the rocks. Downclimbing snow and ice sections took the most time outside of route finding along the traverse.

The biggest crux is the class 4 chimney downclimb off North Maroon as it is still holding a small amount of snow and ice on each step of the 20 foot downclimb. We climbed down this chimney in spikes very slowly and carefully. Doable, but gnarly and sketchy on some of the moves. Beyond this, there is still snow as seen in the photo with the goats above my partner.

Full Trip Report:

Photos (click for slideshow):

 Comments or Questions

Excellent trip report
09/17/2020 19:45
Thanks! Very useful.


Excellent trip report
09/17/2020 19:45
Thanks! Very useful.

Good Report
09/18/2020 07:50
Thanks for the report. It seems microspikes are fine versus crampons going down the N Maroon chimney? Did you use your axe at all?

09/18/2020 10:41
Microspikes are sufficient. We did not use our ice axes or the rope/rappel material that we brought. @sawneagle

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