Peak:  Pigeon Peak (13er)
 Route:  From ruby creek / purg
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  dcruz654
 Date of Info:  09/21/2020
 Date Posted:  09/22/2020

Managed to summit Pigeon and turret in just approach shoes Monday. Conditions seem to be changing day to day, I got rain/graupeled on at 11.6 that same afternoon.
Route up to ruby was steep, rocky, and covered in deadfall. I think I ended up heading more towards N pigeon, then bushwacking/downclimbing to meet back with the actual trail after reaching a ridge near 10.5 . Not really sure where I lost the trail as I was following an obvious path/cairns up to that point. It took almost 4 hrs to reach ruby lake from Needleton, and only took me 1:45 on the way back down. HikerGuy's track is excellent, follow it and you will be on the right path. I made the mistake of not doing so.
Route up to the saddle is bone dry. The descent from there to where you actually start to climb pigeon is more than you'd think. It feels like you wrap 180 to the other side of the mountain.

Some lingering snow on the last few hundred feet of pigeon. I opted to climb all the way to the ridge and take a snowy 4th class climb up from there as opposed to the ramps that looked hella sketch sans traction.
No snow on turret that you have to deal with.

Pic 5-8 show the spot I climbed up. Definitely 4th moves if not a touch harder. A little scary with snow, but it wasn't too much and the rock is super grippy. I looked back at some trs, and I could be wrong, but this might be the spot gladbach and baker climbed up to summit in winter?

Photos (click for slideshow):

 Comments or Questions

Pics 5-8
09/23/2020 17:02
looks like the spot we roped up for. I imagine most people would have just scrambled it like you did, but I scare easy.
At the base of that, and to climbers left, was there a wide semi-sloped shelf?

And, pic 5 shows the horn rock I/we used for terrain belay for Steve's follow, and from where we rapped from on descent. Or maybe he lowered my downclimb and then rapped?

I hope to do these peaks again in summer conditions someday.

Nice job!
09/23/2020 21:42
Those peaks are hard to approach, but so beautiful. Nice job! Glad the track helped. Best, Troy

09/24/2020 00:27
Totally understandable, it gave me concern even with what little snow I dealt with but seemed like the safest way. I cant imagine it with twice as much snow. Ruby lake is gorgeous and worth a visit.
And yea, great memory. I walked to the base of it on a wide slightly downward facing shelf/ledge.

Troy as you know that approach is something. No rope this time, but overnight gear adds up! Definitely harder than up to Chicago. Maybe next time I pay the man if the train is running...

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