I used Snowshoes from trailhead all the way to the waterfall area just above treeline. Mix of rock hopping and firm snow up to the summit from there. Carried crampons but never needed to use them. Did a hybrid traverse to go over to El Diente along the south flanks of the ridge, staying low towards Mt Wilson, and then finally reaching the ridge proper west of all the difficulties (organ pipes). The north side of the El Diente summit area is holding thigh deep snow, fairly heavy which holds you safely rather than fluffy slippery snow. Descended down tractionable snow pretty directly to the south to regain standard trail at bottom of basin.